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contour2gq said:
beyondloadedSE Well I know it would be the same for the 96-99 3L cause it has a split port intake like the 2.5 but the 2000 to curent have a oval port and does not have a IMRC so for it to run right and to run its best it will have to have a dif tune than the 2.5. I mean im sure they new that I was just saying cause some people may have been confused and thought it will work the same for ALL 3L
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Like I said, if the motors were actually the same except for displacement, then you could use the same tune. Everyone knows you have to use a different tune for something as small as gutting the secondaries. ;) DemonSVT will beat that into your head.

contour2gq said:
Not to sound like im knocking the kit but 238 on turbo? Dom over on FCO made like 213 at the wheels on just a straight 3L tuned.....I know you was only running factory 19# and 5psi but damn it is turbo.... and only 25 more hp?
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Your comparing a modified 3.0L with a stock 2.5L with a turbo kit. That 2.5L is probably only making ~160 whp without the turbo kit. Its even using the stock exhaust manifolds. A ~80 hp improvements sounds pretty darn good to me.
 
No actually its a stock 3L besides the precats being gutted. And actually it made well over 190 FWTQ.203.58FWHP / 209.4FWTQ to be exact.Hell my staight 3L made 193FWTQ and that was being tuned by a guy whos never tuned a 3L contour before. For those who dont think a straight 3L can make those numbers heres the link and its got all the dynosheets and graphts http://www.fordcontour.org/index.php?showtopic=7784&st=0&p=46125&#entry46125
But those are pretty good numbers joey for the 2.5 and im sure will hit 275 with 7 or 8psi. I really want to see what it makes with 10 thought!! hehe
 
I don't think that people are saying a 3L can't make those numbers but you are compairing apples to oranges ... sure the numbers are not much of a gain of a N/A 3L but you need to remember they are from a stock 2.5L, that is huge for a bone stock engine

now imagine that 3L with the turbo kit, I am guessing the results will be the same if not much better after seeing all the great work that has been done here
 
contour2gq said:
No actually its a stock 3L besides the precats being gutted. And actually it made well over 190 FWTQ.203.58FWHP / 209.4FWTQ to be exact.Hell my staight 3L made 193FWTQ and that was being tuned by a guy whos never tuned a 3L contour before. For those who dont think a straight 3L can make those numbers heres the link and its got all the dynosheets and graphts http://www.fordcontour.org/index.php?showtopic=7784&st=0&p=46125&#entry46125
But those are pretty good numbers joey for the 2.5 and im sure will hit 275 with 7 or 8psi. I really want to see what it makes with 10 thought!! hehe
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Thos dyno numbers are pretty decent. It is also better to dyno the car at more than one dyno site JUST to prove consistency. I did this on my 3L NA and on my 3L turbo, in different states so I can honestly support my claims. We WILL dyno this kit on a different dyno for comparison purposes just to have that kind of credibility...or we will get permission to use the dynos from some of our customers so that we can get an average set of values.
And by the way 203 wHP is just fair to middlin if you are comparing the best 3Ls. Also I never said that ALL 3ls have the same torque. Most will drop in the 190s wTQ with SVT cams. THe stock oval cams will do more torque but can't hold it for shiit, as that dyno exhibits yet again. The best 3Ls have pulled 220wHP range. Hell I pulled 217wHP on my hybrid and stock svt tune and gutted precats back in 2001! :shrug:

Then dyno-dyno comparisons aren't always accurate. Read one of the recent issues of SCC and find that some shops will not calibrate frequently or will purposely set it up to dyno high so that people keep coming back. Bragging rights are important in the car scene and that is just the way it is.

So what we are offering is a basic 2.5L turbo kit that is reliable to 7-8psi and even on moderate boost will set down 250s at the wheels all day long with even 300s at the wheels a probability for those who want to push it! If someone wants bragging rights with a little bit of good fuel and cool temps you can go to the dyno and crank it up to 10psi or hit the track for a good 1/4 mile slip.
You don't even have to go build your transmission and stuff if you don't beat on it every day, day in and day out.

If you buy this kit you can surpass even the best N/A 3L out there and probably spend less money AND NEVER EVEN PULL YOUR ENGINE OUT OF YOUR CAR! :D How cool is that?

It's cool that you are asking questions and comparing, and I mean that. Just let me point something out though: if you've ever driven a "nice" 3L you'd be impressed, very impressed after coming from a 2.5L (and I'm sure you have). However, if you've ever driven a well-tuned 2.5L turbo you will be amazed! On top of that knowing that it only takes a boost controller to get more power, or a change of exhaust mod or different turbo for different characteristics, etc. you would see that side by side you'd take the 2.5L turbo ANY DAY of the week. It is THAT GOOD! I just can't wait to see people buy the basic kit and then start putting their own personal touches on it! Think of the drag race and autoX meets, the car shows now with mint contour/cougars with boosted motors.... :drool:
 
I know nothing beats the cool factor of a turboed car with a big front mount intercooler, and not to mention the awsome ssound it gives. I have owned 2 turbo cars and just the way they I drive is just kick ass. I love the way it feel! Yeah I def want to see ur kit on 3L with headers. Since that what I wil be having.Might have to go take another loan hehe
 
I will supply T bolts clamps for the exducer hose but if you want more I can add it to the kit. The T-bolts fit tight because of the 4 ply hoses but I ran 10 psi on standard clamps. On the larger stage kit I will supply them standard since the kit will see higher boost levels. The extra cost should be around $30 for the t-bolts
 
BurritaSVT said:
I will supply T bolts clamps for the exducer hose but if you want more I can add it to the kit. The T-bolts fit tight because of the 4 ply hoses but I ran 10 psi on standard clamps. On the larger stage kit I will supply them standard since the kit will see higher boost levels. The extra cost should be around $30 for the t-bolts
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okay thanks!
 
Redlineracer12 said:
Video was sweeet ;) I'm not sure what is against the rules... i'm sure that was on a closed course :laugh:
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Yea! The rules are against Street Racing, this was Street Driving...lol

Na, seriously though CEG has strict rules about not supporting breaking the laws. It would be hypocritical to think any car enthusiast has NOT broken the speed limit a couple of times though.

I drove that car on 3.5psi and on 5-6psi. It is nice and quick on just 3.5 but it just feels really fast on 5-6psi. I can only imagine that it is a little monster on 10psi! :D
Probably about as nice as a 3L on 6psi.
 
just curious and i've read back some to try to find out with no luck, but on the car you are testing now what turbo config. are you using?

1. 57 or 60 trim?
2. .63 or .82 AR?
3. neither


just on a side note: from your experience on the 2.5 motors does a .63 AR run out of air on top end or does it keep up just fine. (on the 57 trim)
 
we are using the 57 trim and .63 AR turbo it will support any stock 2.5 liter and built 2.5 as well as a stock 3 liter. The turbo is size larger so that the power delivery will be smoother and still allow you stay well within the tuebo effieceny range too.

Here is the dyno from Sat where we were only able to run 6 psi and you will see the power hold to redline but you will see it made a very nice flat curve with good power.

I am trying to get the motor dynoed with 10 psi but the dynos here are all buooked for two weeks straight I will try my hardest to get one before i put in the 3 liter next week. If not you guys can back to the old dyno from other cars and see what 10 psi makes on stock motor.

dyno6psi.jpg
 
the smoothing is on zero on smoothing. I have the software to change it. When people send you dyno charts they are smoothed to a 3-4 not a zero.

like this

dyno6psismoothed.jpg
 
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Ya that's what i was gonna say.

When i datalog my car with the wideband...the AFR looks kinda crazy. If i set the smoothing to just 1 or 2 then it looks a-ok.

Turbo kit is lookin' awesome Burrita. I'll prolly pick one up in June or July. If no one gets there first...there will definitely be a Cougar/Contour in the low 12's come late summer/fall.
 
dubkatz said:
just curious, how come the drop in tq at 5k then it seems to level out again?
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This wastegate spring was only 3.5psi.
This sort of characteristic happens when you try to use a basic boost controller on top of a low pressure spring.
When you have a weak spring like this you have an initial spike in pressure because the boost controller prevents the gate from opening right away. The problem is the exhaust pressure also starts to go up when you are pusing more boost. The combination of the exhaust pressure pushing on the wastegate valve and then some boost pressure on the gate will cause it to open MORE than it otherwise would. The gate opens more than it needs to and then the boost pressure lags behind it and drops more than intended as well. An oscillation then occurs between the gate spring and the exhaust pressure + boost pressure. Eventually it will stabilize on a pressure level that is in equilibrium with both the boost and exhaust pressure balanced on the spring.
That is why it dropped low and the leveled back out.

A high quality boost controller can prevent that, or you can get a higher pressure wastegate spring. As you know, Burrita threw in a 7lb spring after this dyno and has not yet dyno'd the engine with the better spring in the wastegate.
You should expect to see the torque much more linear with a higher value spring.
 
First off, I'm a bit of a newb, so I hope I don't get flamed.

This is great work you guys are doing, especially the fact that you're so responsive in this thread answering questions every day. That basically inspires confidence that you know what you're doing and you're serious about making this a great product. :cool:

Anyways, here are my questions:
  • You can see my car's mods in my sig...will that setup work okay with the base tune, or would it be slightly off, as I'm assuming the base tune would be for stock TB, Y-pipe and exhaust? (and yes, I know, I should probably get a bigger exhaust than the Borla, but I'm more interested in a quiet-ish ride with some extra power than I am in pure power)
  • Is the only option for loading the base tune the X-Cal2, or are there other (read: cheaper) options?
  • I think this was asked by RawBurt before but I couldn't find an answer...will the kit come with instructions?
  • I wouldn't be doing the install myself (for some reason pulling parts out of a car scares me, but I'll rip apart a computer no problem), so how long do you think it would take a competent mechanic to install the kit? And if it doesn't come with instructions, would it even be possible?
One suggestion...as this thread gets long and unwieldy, it might save you guys some time to consolidate the most frequently asked questions in one spot; perhaps a new thread somewhere. Also laying out the kit options in one spot, as that seems to be a popular question.

Once again, thanks for the great work!
 
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