Who here might be interested in ........

[OB1]

Everyone keeps mentioning 24lb injectors, I thought Joey said that this would come w/ 36lb units. I could be wrong or something could have changed but I just want to make sure. Maybe the difference is b/n stage 1 & 2?

 

[BurritaSVT]

The larger one is 27x6x3.5 with 2.5" inlet and oulet good for 700cfm

Once you take off the y-pipe you will need to drop the oil pan to tap into the pan I will show you a pic.

The 24# will be good for 325whp so there was need to go higher remember I will have a stage 3 that will be insane which will be my setup but it will have a custom splitter to fit a huge FMIC and larger injectors and larger piping on the pressure side. That will be close to 4k fro that kit

 

[yamaha racer 686]

custom front splitter?? sounds hot

 

[TRicker]

While we're on the the subject (and keeping with the theme of "relatively low cost") would a 3" --> 2.25" y-split setup flow well enough for a 3L turbo?

I am thinking of just replacing the "main" piping with 3" pipe and keeping the "y-split" section of my stock SVT exhaust- changing the res & mufflers, too.

Of course, I'll need a 3" cat, too- Tom or Joey, do you happen to know what size inlet a new cat would need?

your best bet is going the same size all the way through. for a turboed application, 3" is recommended. however a 3" going down to 2.25" is probably more restrictive than a full 2.5" exhaust. and for N/A, a 3" exhaust would reduce HP but basically just negate any gain a slightly smaller exhaust would give. in my (very useless) opinion, a 2.5L would be fine with a 2.5" exhaust with the turbo setup, as long as you had it set up for high flow (no cats, one muffler.....etc) otherwise i would go with a 3" if your in the market for exhaust also.

 

[111R]

i can't wait for stage 3!!! :drool::drool::drool:

joey you have a PM!

 

[LilCe98]

We decided not to paint the front intercooler since most here would like to paint their own words. Like I will paint NPG for my business name

Can we opt to have it painted?

 

[OB1]

i can't wait for stage 3!!! :drool::drool::drool:

+10 charac

 

[beyondloadedSE]

But wont the tune need to e dif for hte 3L and a dif spring for more psi? And also are you still painting the SVT on the front mopunt intervooler?>

Unless your changing the injectors between a 2.5L and a 3.0L, the tune should basically be the same. If the tune is done correctly, which im sure it will be, it should be spot on for more boost.

 

[CSVT#49]

Which in Mike's case, he could probably go with the 7psi spring and 24# injectors. By upgraded trans, do you mean clutch as well? With as easy as it is to swap out injectors, you might as well go that route with a good tune. The headers alone should bump your power levels from the already dyno'd stage 1 kit. And you've got the insurance with the built tranny.

Mark

Well I have a SPEC stage 1 clutch installed. However I'm not sure how much I trust a stage 1 since I already torched one with my current setup. The thing only had 14k on it. Plus Tricker had a stage 1 with his nitrous setup and he torched his as well.

Although according to the SPEC website it should be good for:

"For bolt on naturally aspirated and mildly modified forced induction engines. Stock-like daily drivability and very good wear characteristics."

 

[Y2KSVT]

I've got 39k miles on my SPEC stage 1 clutch. It's seen ~300whp/300wtq, and never had a single issue. I understand your skepticism, having gone through one in such a short matter, and knowing someone else who has done the same. But you know as well as any, you pay to play. You can't expect all of these parts to last a lifetime, so it's a balancing act of how bad you want that extra 100HP+ at the sole of your foot. IIRC, you did the clutch swap yourself, so worst case scenerio: you blow this clutch up, and you have ~$350 into a stage 3.

Mark

 

[CSVT#49]

Did anyone else notice in the pics below how the power steering cooler was mounted flat? That won't cool very well with it mounted that way. I would suggest mounting it upright like it's suppose to be either behind the FMIC or in front of it, but not flat underneath it like it is in these pics. Either that or replace the cooler all together with a small rail type transmission cooler.

 

[SVTJON87]

good eye CSVT#49

 

[contour2gq]

YOu know what? The tune would def have to be dif cause going to a 3L from a 2.5 you have to have it tuned to run right. Yeah it runs but def not the way it should. YOure going from a engine that has a IMRC to a engine that doesnt. YOu have to comp for that in the tune

 

[warmonger]

Did anyone else notice in the pics below how the power steering cooler was mounted flat? That won't cool very well with it mounted that way. I would suggest mounting it upright like it's suppose to be either behind the FMIC or in front of it, but not flat underneath it like it is in these pics. Either that or replace the cooler all together with a small rail type transmission cooler.

Not to be a jerk, but how do YOU know it won't cool very well? :shrug:

Putting it in front of the IC will work but then it blocks air to the intercooler, an already sensitive and critical piece of the turbo kit.
Putting it behind the IC means it is already getting warmer air so why bother.

Putting it underneath the intercooler means it will get it's OWN cross section of untouched air. We aren't BLOCKING the air to the PS cooler, we are just positioning it lower down so it gets its own uninterupted airflow and minimizes the chances of parts vibration and rubbing a hole into either the AC condenser or the intercooler. Ask several people with the ADC/streetflight kit what happens with the air-water heat exchanger in front of the condenser. It rubs a hole in the condenser and the AC pressure blows a hole through it. Voila, NO AC anymore. :shocked: Its very hard to isolate it correctly for long term usage.
On the other hand, this is just how WE chose to do it because we felt it was the best compromise with the setup.

Yes, GOOD EYES....You may choose to mount it in front of or behind your intercooler if you choose to buy one of these kits. We never said it was a requirement because it was basically a non-issue since positioning is up to the owner. If you ask us, this is how WE would recommend you place it (because we thought it out before hand).

 

[warmonger]

YOu know what? The tune would def have to be dif cause going to a 3L from a 2.5 you have to have it tuned to run right. Yeah it runs but def not the way it should. YOure going from a engine that has a IMRC to a engine that doesnt. YOu have to comp for that in the tune

So who are you talking to? More importantly what are you trying to say?

 

[BurritaSVT]

For you guys who do autocrossing alot you should upgrade to a larger PS cooler anyway they would easily fit in the fender well and the cooler even come with their own fan too. It up to you if you want to spend money where it is not needed. Show me proof that the cooler is being affected by temps or better than that show me failed power steering pumps because of pump heat. Let me get real techinical here if you take a flat surface that has resistance the air will build a pressure area in front of the FMIC or Condensor the air will flow to the least resistance or lower pressure area which is on the sides and the lower side of the FMIC. This air that is not directed through the restricted FMIC will be the air that will pass by the fins on the PS cooler. Take a high speed fan mayeb two and tape a cardboard flap under the FMIC and tell me the flap doesn't move.

The opening in the air vent doesn't mean that the air will only travel straight. The whole bottom end of the bumper acts as a tunnel which will have higher velocity and pressure through the middle but the whole tunnel will have air movement even on the edges which will extract heat off the fins.

If someone will show me facts and or temps differences I will add a sperate cooler on the passenger side fender well with a high speed fan and add it to the price if you like. Sorry If this comes off wrong but we already discussed this me and tom and we understand your concerns. If I was one looking at the whole picture I would have mentioned why don't you have an large oil cooler because you are running a turbo now which acts as a heater and thins out your oil.

I guess to sum it up guys you can always improve anything if you want to spend the money but I built this kit on well rounded concept at a price most kits won't sell for.

Thanks joey

 

[BurritaSVT]

YOu know what? The tune would def have to be dif cause going to a 3L from a 2.5 you have to have it tuned to run right. Yeah it runs but def not the way it should. YOure going from a engine that has a IMRC to a engine that doesnt. YOu have to comp for that in the tune

I beleive beyondloadedse was talking about a 3 liter with secondaires which most poeple will have. We will supply you with a base tune for your setup so if you have a 3 liter no secondaries then it will be tune1 and the guy with secondaries 3 liter get tune2 so forth but if you have additional parts likes different size injectors MAF etc $50 extra may apply.

 

[CSVT#49]

Not to be a jerk, but how do YOU know it won't cool very well? :shrug:

Putting it in front of the IC will work but then it blocks air to the intercooler, an already sensitive and critical piece of the turbo kit.
Putting it behind the IC means it is already getting warmer air so why bother.

Putting it underneath the intercooler means it will get it's OWN cross section of untouched air. We aren't BLOCKING the air to the PS cooler, we are just positioning it lower down so it gets its own uninterupted airflow and minimizes the chances of parts vibration and rubbing a hole into either the AC condenser or the intercooler. Ask several people with the ADC/streetflight kit what happens with the air-water heat exchanger in front of the condenser. It rubs a hole in the condenser and the AC pressure blows a hole through it. Voila, NO AC anymore. :shocked: Its very hard to isolate it correctly for long term usage.
On the other hand, this is just how WE chose to do it because we felt it was the best compromise with the setup.

Yes, GOOD EYES....You may choose to mount it in front of or behind your intercooler if you choose to buy one of these kits. We never said it was a requirement because it was basically a non-issue since positioning is up to the owner. If you ask us, this is how WE would recommend you place it (because we thought it out before hand).

For you guys who do autocrossing alot you should upgrade to a larger PS cooler anyway they would easily fit in the fender well and the cooler even come with their own fan too. It up to you if you want to spend money where it is not needed. Show me proof that the cooler is being affected by temps or better than that show me failed power steering pumps because of pump heat. Let me get real techinical here if you take a flat surface that has resistance the air will build a pressure area in front of the FMIC or Condensor the air will flow to the least resistance or lower pressure area which is on the sides and the lower side of the FMIC. This air that is not directed through the restricted FMIC will be the air that will pass by the fins on the PS cooler. Take a high speed fan mayeb two and tape a cardboard flap under the FMIC and tell me the flap doesn't move.

The opening in the air vent doesn't mean that the air will only travel straight. The whole bottom end of the bumper acts as a tunnel which will have higher velocity and pressure through the middle but the whole tunnel will have air movement even on the edges which will extract heat off the fins.

If someone will show me facts and or temps differences I will add a sperate cooler on the passenger side fender well with a high speed fan and add it to the price if you like. Sorry If this comes off wrong but we already discussed this me and tom and we understand your concerns. If I was one looking at the whole picture I would have mentioned why don't you have an large oil cooler because you are running a turbo now which acts as a heater and thins out your oil.

I guess to sum it up guys you can always improve anything if you want to spend the money but I built this kit on well rounded concept at a price most kits won't sell for.

Thanks joey

Well Tom I know that you are decreasing the area of the cooler that will see cool ambient flow. So logically it wont cool AS well if it was mounted upright. As for the vibration I can't believe there isn't a way to mount some brackets to the frame to prevent it from vibrating or atleast installation of some rubber bushings. Now I'm not saying it WONT cool, but rather it woud cool BETTER if it was mounted the way it was designed to be.

The fins for the second line after the loop going through the PS cooler will no longer be seeing cool ambient air flowing across all sides, but rather heated air coming off of the first set of fins around the first line towards the front of the car. The fins will still dissipate heat of course, just not as efficiently. This is why I suggested going to a long rail type transmission cooler that would mount in the same place, but allow heat to be dissipated much more effectively.

If it really becomes an issue thermocouples could be mounted in the inlet and outlet for the PS cooler as well as on the front and back of the cooler so that ambient air is being measured across the fins as well as the inlet and outlet temperatures of the PS fluid. I'm guessing you would see a slight increase in outlet temperature when mounting it flat versus upright. The delta from inlet to outlet would be slightly greater, but it all depends on how well the second line of fins are dissipating heat. I guess as a rule of thumb if you are planning on repositioning/using something other then how it was intended I would test to see if there is any negative effects for doing so. I personally would like to know the difference in the PS fluids ambient capability with the PS cooler mounted flat versus upright.

In the end we must realize that we are talking about power steering fluid, in my opinion the car could probably be run with out the thing installed and still do fine. It was more of an observation then anything. I mearly suggested that if it could be mounted the way it was designed to be we would be better off down the road.

Joey I don't think upgrading to a PS cooler with a fan is necessary unless of course the car is being used for autocross racing where the temps on the PS fluid could be rising enough to be a concern. A simple rail type cooler could be purchased by the buyer on their own, if they felt the need, for a rather low price through a place such as Summit Racing. If I'm not mistaken one could be purchased for less then $100.

However yes as you say we the end user can decide how we wish to mount the kit when we get it. If I see a need to mount the PS cooler differently I will do so. No hard feelings. I like what you guys have done here.

 

[TRicker]

well nobody here respects my opinion, and CSVT#49 doesnt need my help, but i'll back him up (im sure he doesnt say this much) HE JUST GOT BACK FROM DOING A 2 WEEK COOLING TEST FOR A VERY LARGE AND REPUTABLE COMPANY FOR HEAVY EQUIPMENT!!!!. the guy knows what he's talking about. i mounted my PS like that when i had the FMIC on my car and im sure it made a difference. all in all, im sure it doesnt make enough difference to hurt anything, but its something to look at.

 

[fastcougar]

You could easily angle it at 45 degrees and create a shroud to channel air at it without disrupting the air to the intercooler