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Noble 3.0L Twin Turbo Build

Jim you definitely speak the truth. Having owned a turbo car before I can relate. I owned a factory turbo car but once I began modifying it some things just couldn't be enjoyed. With an aftermarket turbo setup these problems occur tenfold. Turboing an non-turbo factory car involves so much more than just fitting everything and running piping. Air/fuel ratios, engine/turbo temps, proper spark, and not to mention the driveability and maintenance issues that have to be considered.

BTW why is this in the 3 liter section?:confused: Seems to me it would fit better under forced induction.
 
I have a question. How many people here that have or have had big hp contours actually used sticky tires? BFG KDW's don't count. There a good street tire, but a street tire none the less. Falken rt615, Bridgstone re-01r, hankook rs2 are good examples but, bfg r1, toyo t1r, nitto nt01 are better examples. Of course you have to use stage 2 axles and a lsd. It's not just in this thread that I hear people say that "this platform" can't support big amounts of power. Out of those people that say it however, how many have actually tried to dial in some anti squat/dive into their suspension? That would at least help a little with the launch. Proper spring rates and lengths would also help. I agree that the contour is less than optimal for good launches. But why don't people talk about addressing those issues instead of acknowledging that they're there and giving up hope of a better solution. I'll offer my help if anyone cares to listen.
 
I have a question. How many people here that have or have had big hp contours actually used sticky tires? BFG KDW's don't count. There a good street tire, but a street tire none the less. Falken rt615, Bridgstone re-01r, hankook rs2 are good examples but, bfg r1, toyo t1r, nitto nt01 are better examples. Of course you have to use stage 2 axles and a lsd. It's not just in this thread that I hear people say that "this platform" can't support big amounts of power. Out of those people that say it however, how many have actually tried to dial in some anti squat/dive into their suspension? That would at least help a little with the launch. Proper spring rates and lengths would also help. I agree that the contour is less than optimal for good launches. But why don't people talk about addressing those issues instead of acknowledging that they're there and giving up hope of a better solution. I'll offer my help if anyone cares to listen.

People have ran drag radials and as you can see, nobody is in the 12s. :laugh:

Btw, I gaurantee drag radials with a good launch will snap those 2 stage axles. Burrita's name pops into my head for snapping one, but I could be wrong.
 
I kind of have my doubts about the strength of the stage two axles. I did read a thread not so long ago about two different metals being used for the construction of the axels. I think it said that the later manufactured ones are supposed to be superior to the first ones. I would still try to slip the clutch though. When I get my 3 liter engine, I will take my car to the drag strip to let everyone know haw fast a fully gutted svt is. I have 225 wide R compound tires, so the launch should be very fast for a contour. I will try to slip the clutch a little. I will get some practice with launching at next weekends autocross. I have a stock diff and axles so I will put in an effort to still drive the car home.
 
I kind of have my doubts about the strength of the stage two axles. I did read a thread not so long ago about two different metals being used for the construction of the axels. I think it said that the later manufactured ones are supposed to be superior to the first ones. I would still try to slip the clutch though. When I get my 3 liter engine, I will take my car to the drag strip to let everyone know haw fast a fully gutted svt is. I have 225 wide R compound tires, so the launch should be very fast for a contour. I will try to slip the clutch a little. I will get some practice with launching at next weekends autocross. I have a stock diff and axles so I will put in an effort to still drive the car home.

Yes, thats correct. The early stage 2 axles used the Billet 1117 and then 4340 steel on the other side. The new is 4340 all over.

If your making power to use the stage 2s in the 3.0L turbo, chances are you are also using a stage 3 clutch which you cant slip. It's either engaged or disengaged. Anything in between and all you get is terrible shuddering. Again...another reason why poor times are ran.

Btw, what tires do you have?
 
Hankook z211 225/50/16
I'll probably run a stage two clutch When I get one

Those tires are meant for autocrossing and roadcoursing. They are softer than normal tires, but have a very hard sidewall to help with lateral grip. Let me know how do you with them, but I have a feeling your are going to launch with a ton of wheel hop (bye bye axles, etc) considering how hard the sidewalls are.
 
Autocrossing and road racing is all I'm going to use the tires for. I'm not even going to drive to the events on them. I've noticed that when I balanced my tires right before an event, I don't get wheel hop for the first few launches. It makes that big of a difference. It doesn't last forever though. I'm bound to lock up my tires enough to flat spot them. Then balancing them wont make a difference. I have a different felling then you. I think I'm going to launch with enough clutch slip and explode my diff. Anything can happen though since I am the master of breaking cars at race events. When I don't, you can find my name near the top of the days standings.
 
I think I'm going to launch with enough clutch slip and explode my diff. Anything can happen though since I am the master of breaking cars at race events. When I don't, you can find my name near the top of the days standings.

Oh, I assumed you have a quaife or torsen. Yes, you'll grenade your diff before the axles go.
 
I have a question. How many people here that have or have had big hp contours actually used sticky tires? BFG KDW's don't count. There a good street tire, but a street tire none the less. Falken rt615, Bridgstone re-01r, hankook rs2 are good examples but, bfg r1, toyo t1r, nitto nt01 are better examples. Of course you have to use stage 2 axles and a lsd. It's not just in this thread that I hear people say that "this platform" can't support big amounts of power. Out of those people that say it however, how many have actually tried to dial in some anti squat/dive into their suspension? That would at least help a little with the launch. Proper spring rates and lengths would also help. I agree that the contour is less than optimal for good launches. But why don't people talk about addressing those issues instead of acknowledging that they're there and giving up hope of a better solution. I'll offer my help if anyone cares to listen.

I ran / run the Hankooks and with a regular three liter I couldnt keep traction. Its not going to be any better with a turbo
 
I have a question. How many people here that have or have had big hp contours actually used sticky tires? BFG KDW's don't count. There a good street tire, but a street tire none the less. Falken rt615, Bridgstone re-01r, hankook rs2 are good examples but, bfg r1, toyo t1r, nitto nt01 are better examples. Of course you have to use stage 2 axles and a lsd. It's not just in this thread that I hear people say that "this platform" can't support big amounts of power. Out of those people that say it however, how many have actually tried to dial in some anti squat/dive into their suspension? That would at least help a little with the launch. Proper spring rates and lengths would also help. I agree that the contour is less than optimal for good launches. But why don't people talk about addressing those issues instead of acknowledging that they're there and giving up hope of a better solution. I'll offer my help if anyone cares to listen.

IMHO, the Toyo T1R is nowhere near the BFG R1 and Nitto NT-01 (and Toyo R888, Pirelli P-Zero Corsa Motorsport, Michelin Pilot Sport Cup, and Yokohama A048). I'd place it well below the Falken RT615, which I'd place below the Bridgestone RE-01R.
 
So I'm assuming the AER 3.0L has been ordered and car is under the knife?

Or is this thread going to end up like the rest of them.
poke2.gif
 
Sorry yall been too busy with work and too lazy this weekend to post them. I dont have til Wednesday, so Ill post them then. Trying to figure out all the specs for that block so I can determine the ratio, what I came up with on compression with a stock 3.0 with 8.5 com pistons and the 2.5L heads was 8.6:1. As soon as I figure that out I will be ordering a short block or a long block. Hopefully find out this week.
 
I know this question was asked but I didnt see that it was answered, why don't you just use a complete noble motor and noble mani's?
 
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