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DIY poly fill roll restrictor

What did you use to fill it? If you didn't, you may want to try getting some of the 94A poly and cutting out what you have in yours and just pouring in the 94A. As long as surfaces are clean, you should be fine...

On a side note, i'll be installing my mounts when I get out of class tonight and hopefully have the car on the road early next week... :D

My repaired mount is starting to break... There is just not enough structure on the older mounts for this to work :cry:

Now I am bucking again, arrg :mad:
 
What did you use to fill it? If you didn't, you may want to try getting some of the 94A poly and cutting out what you have in yours and just pouring in the 94A. As long as surfaces are clean, you should be fine...

On a side note, i'll be installing my mounts when I get out of class tonight and hopefully have the car on the road early next week... :D

The 3M window weld, that is what this thread is about :rolleyes:

Is'nt the 94A the super hard stuff? I am not a dragster, I have a Zetec... I was just trying to fix a broken mount without having to buy a new one...
 
So get some 80A... They make it in different hardnesses... :D

Your best bet is probably to pull the mount, remove everything then re-fill it with fresh poly...
 
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Well, I got my car up and running today, NVH is definitely up, didn't really drive the car too far though so no more review than that.

I did the 94A fill too. I almost wish I would've left the rubber in instead of completely stripping the mounts. Oh well, live and learn.

Tomorrow i'll get my idling issue fixed and the coolant changed and then we'll see.
 
Alright, after a few days of driving the car, I feel I can give a more appropriate review of the 94A filled mounts.

Idle is a bit rough, even on a nearly stock car. I don't mind it, but you can feel the engine through the steering wheels.

Accelerating there is a little NVH and you may find a few new rattles in the car like I did, but nothing unreasonable.

Cruising on the highway I noticed almost no difference in NVH. Maybe slightly more.

Launching, is definitely much better. I launched enough to spin the tires a little bit a few different times and both was very smooth, no hop, just a little spin then it hooked and went.
 
Sorry to ask but I'm new to these cars and was just wondering how hard it is to pull the mount off in the first place.
 
It's not hard at all. You pull a few bolts and voila. You do have to jack the car up, but it really isn't a difficult job.
 
Gotcha. I havent taken delivery of the car yet so I havent seen a manual or slid under it yet. I'm coming from turbo mx6 and 626 cars so filling mounts for a little more stiffness is old hat for me. We use the cheaper roof flashing poly you get at home depot.
 
Feel free to make yourself at home here. The Search feature you find at the top of the page will direct you to most things you need to know. There are pictures of the mount under the car, you just have to find them.
 
The rear roll restrictor is a piece of cake to remove. The front one... it's easiest to remove the bracket and rr as one unit, then remove the rr from the bracket.
 
I guess I'm gonna need to get under the car to see the difference between the mounts and these roll restrictors. I've never heard the term but its nice to see it in these pictures.
 
My repaired mount is starting to break... There is just not enough structure on the older mounts for this to work :cry:

Now I am bucking again, arrg :mad:

Ah-ha! I figured out where I failed... Like Pole120 implied earlier in this thread, the mounts have a hollow core... Well, when I first filled mine, I only filled the core from the top of the mount (relative to how it mounts to the car) and figured it would fill down... Wrong! Apparently there are two rubber dividers, cutting the core of the mount in half... So the bottom half of my core was not filled meaning that the weight of the engine and stress of acceleration weakened the poly on the outside of the bottom of the mount...

So I took everything apart and ripped out the center cylinder piece along with the poly from the top half of the core (I had to rip out the center cylinder to get the poly chunk out)... I will get some pictures of this chunk tomorrow, just so you can visualize how much empty space is in there...

On a side note, my hands are all black again because I could not find any latex gloves around my house :blackeye:

So the moral of the story is, make sure you fill up the core of your mounts or else you are wasting your time!
 
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I am going to let Josh drive my car at sz and see for himself what my diy fill did, and he will post his impresions.
 
Ah-ha! I figured out where I failed... Like Pole120 implied earlier in this thread, the mounts have a hollow core... Well, when I first filled mine, I only filled the core from the top of the mount (relative to how it mounts to the car) and figured it would fill down... Wrong! Apparently there are two rubber dividers, cutting the core of the mount in half... So the bottom half of my core was not filled meaning that the weight of the engine and stress of acceleration weakened the poly on the outside of the bottom of the mount...

So I took everything apart and ripped out the center cylinder piece along with the poly from the top half of the core (I had to rip out the center cylinder to get the poly chunk out)... I will get some pictures of this chunk tomorrow, just so you can visualize how much empty space is in there...

On a side note, my hands are all black again because I could not find any latex gloves around my house :blackeye:

So the moral of the story is, make sure you fill up the core of your mounts or else you are wasting your time!
Yep... when I filled mine I used a drill to cut out all the "flaps". You need to see all the way through all of the holes before you fill it.
 
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