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3L turbo final round

Last I spoke to Joey privately (and it's been awhile) he informed me that motors with stock pistons were outlasting motors with forged pistons, assuming proper-tuning and proper-oiling. Is that still the case? How many folks on here have been boosting with forged internals for awhile without issues?

Regarding the Noble/Rossion motors, the owners complain on the forum about blowby as much as anybody else with forged pistons running boost. I haven't checked up on engine failures in awhile though.

Before I reinstall my turbo, I would like to compare cylinder pressures with somebody. Do we have typical numbers for 8.5:1 and/or 9.0:1 compression engines?
 
SoopaCooga said:
Last I spoke to Joey privately (and it's been awhile) he informed me that motors with stock pistons were outlasting motors with forged pistons, assuming proper-tuning and proper-oiling. Is that still the case? How many folks on here have been boosting with forged internals for awhile without issues?

Regarding the Noble/Rossion motors, the owners complain on the forum about blowby as much as anybody else with forged pistons running boost. I haven't checked up on engine failures in awhile though.

Before I reinstall my turbo, I would like to compare cylinder pressures with somebody. Do we have typical numbers for 8.5:1 and/or 9.0:1 compression engines?
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am sure joey will say sumthn on that, but that doesn't make an ounce of sense to me. i'd like to hear the theory on that one. how do stock motors outlast forged ones? there's probably one or two tops, that have forged internals on here... that i can think of anyway... the blowby issues i'd imagine will plague even noble motors, unless the pcv system is updated.
 
BAD SVT said:
how do stock motors outlast forged ones?
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By being built better, or having tighter tolerances. And by built better, I don't just mean the possibility of installer error. New engines are built with new parts that have zero wear and impeccable quality control. How many of us can say that about our builds?

For these builds that used forged pistons, what was the condition of the block that they were put into? Was it used? If so, was it sent to a machine shop for a thorough cleaning and inspection? Were the bores at least lightly honed and properly measured? Were piston-to-bore clearances checked? Soooo many variables and different possible answers as to why these failures occured.

Bottom line... it doesn't matter what parts you use if you're putting them into a block that has a problem, or there are loose tolerances.
 
SicSE said:
By being built better, or having tighter tolerances. And by built better, I don't just mean the possibility of installer error. New engines are built with new parts that have zero wear and impeccable quality control. How many of us can say that about our builds?

For these builds that used forged pistons, what was the condition of the block that they were put into? Was it used? If so, was it sent to a machine shop for a thorough cleaning and inspection? Were the bores at least lightly honed and properly measured? Were piston-to-bore clearances checked? Soooo many variables and different possible answers as to why these failures occured.

Bottom line... it doesn't matter what parts you use if you're putting them into a block that has a problem, or there are loose tolerances.
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My point exactly!
 
you gonna leave off the turbo until the new motor proves itself and/or gets broken in? i wish i had done that the first time instead of trying to troubleshoot the whole setup.
 
SoopaCooga said:
you gonna leave off the turbo until the new motor proves itself and/or gets broken in? i wish i had done that the first time instead of trying to troubleshoot the whole setup.
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didn't you build the engine with new internals? if thats the case then yes, break the engine in by itself. with a used engine its already broken in. although getting it running n\a would help if there are any issues. make sure its gets datalogged and the tune tweaked so that it runs as it should.
 
SoopaCooga said:
you gonna leave off the turbo until the new motor proves itself and/or gets broken in? i wish i had done that the first time instead of trying to troubleshoot the whole setup.
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BrApple said:
didn't you build the engine with new internals? if thats the case then yes, break the engine in by itself. with a used engine its already broken in. although getting it running n\a would help if there are any issues. make sure its gets datalogged and the tune tweaked so that it runs as it should.
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no. stock internals. R & R motor. no break in. ready to go. its the exact setup as the last one. so the tune shouldnt be that off.
 
so i was reinstalling the radiator when i broke the nipple on the top. the one than connects to the reservoir tank. other than replacing the whole radiator, any other ideas for fixing this? thanx:).

HPIM4205.jpg
 
Two part epoxy and cross your fingers?

I would actually try to melt the nipple back on if I were you.
 
blu_fuz said:
I would actually try to melt the nipple back on if I were you.
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I've Tried that one before and it doesn't work out anything like you would hope. :blackeye:

I have not found a repair that will hold this type of problem for any significant period of time. My attempts have included a 2-part epoxy for hard plastics, JBweld, and even a plastic welder. I think the plastic welder MAY work if you're skilled enough with it.

Is that plastic as thin as it looks? If it were a little thicker, I'd say to screw a threaded metal nipple into it.
 
SicSE said:
Is that plastic as thin as it looks? If it were a little thicker, I'd say to screw a threaded metal nipple into it.
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thanx for the ideas. i like this one. would it be better i heat up the threaded metal nipple so it seals well? the texture of this radiator plastic is kinda weird. i guess cracky and brittle are synonyms that come to mind.
 
If you go with a metal nipple is there room to get to the inside an put a backing nut on it. Is that the large hose coming off the top? Im not sure where im looking. The plastic looks thin, it would nice to get a nut on the other side. Your going to have to use a sealant too.
 
BAD SVT said:
would it be better i heat up the threaded metal nipple so it seals well? the texture of this radiator plastic is kinda weird.
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I'd say no to the heat idea... it only seems to aerate the finished product. If the plastic is as thin as it looks, I would go with a lot of JBweld or some epoxy on the threads & build a mound around the base of the nipple. Be sure to rough up the radiator surface to help promote a good bond.

If the plastic is thicker than it looks, allowing for the threads to hold well, I'd just use some RTV on the threads.
 
TourEnvy said:
If you go with a metal nipple is there room to get to the inside an put a backing nut on it. Is that the large hose coming off the top? Im not sure where im looking. The plastic looks thin, it would nice to get a nut on the other side. Your going to have to use a sealant too.
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i think u've got sumthn else in mind evan. standing in front of the car, its on the left side. the smaller hose that goes to the coolant reservoir. there's no nut needed anywhere except where the fan shroud bolts unto the radiator itself.
 
Broken 2 of those. No epoxy I've tried has held. Hope you have better luck. I have a spare rad. I could sell.
 
SicSE said:
I'd say no to the heat idea... it only seems to aerate the finished product. If the plastic is as thin as it looks, I would go with a lot of JBweld or some epoxy on the threads & build a mound around the base of the nipple. Be sure to rough up the radiator surface to help promote a good bond.

If the plastic is thicker than it looks, allowing for the threads to hold well, I'd just use some RTV on the threads.
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i dont think the plastic is that thick. heres a pic of the broken nipple.

HPIM4207.jpg
 
BAD SVT said:
i think u've got sumthn else in mind evan. standing in front of the car, its on the left side. the smaller hose that goes to the coolant reservoir. there's no nut needed anywhere except where the fan shroud bolts unto the radiator itself.
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Okay well it seems like you cant get to the inside of the tank then, but I just meant if you could put a nut on from the inside onto the threads of the nipple you would have a better shot.

Nipple end | Radiator Tank| end threads <--- screw backer nut on.

I know you dont bolt the stock nipple on. You cant do my idea, so NM. :P
 
I would screw in a 1/4" npt to 1/4 barbed as tightly as possible and sand the area with as low grit as you can find. Then go at it with jb. I had to epoxy a part on mine I did three layers of JB letting it dry completely and covering more each time. Nothing to lose anyways.
 
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