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3L turbo final round

If you have a decent pair of channel locks, (and some patience!), you can bend back the tabs that hold the tank on, so that you can remove the tank and work on both sides of the hole. Then you can use a backing nut as already mentioned, along with some sealant and the threaded nipple for a repair that's as reliable as you can get. You'll be done quicker, cheaper and almost as reliably as a new rad.
 
SicSE said:
If you have a decent pair of channel locks, (and some patience!), you can bend back the tabs that hold the tank on, so that you can remove the tank and work on both sides of the hole. Then you can use a backing nut as already mentioned, along with some sealant and the threaded nipple for a repair that's as reliable as you can get. You'll be done quicker, cheaper and almost as reliably as a new rad.
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hmm.. never thought of taking off the tank. and i've never seen one detached. but am guessing its not really enclosed right? its open on the side that attaches to the metal surface. sorta like a 'U' shape. correct?
 
Or if youre really wanting to hear it start just go ahead and start it. Its not like its going to over heat in 5 mins or something with out a radiator. Just start it and let it run till it gets norm or close to norm operating temp just to make sure it runs smooth and shut it off.
 
contour2gq said:
Or if youre really wanting to hear it start just go ahead and start it. Its not like its going to over heat in 5 mins or something with out a radiator. Just start it and let it run till it gets norm or close to norm operating temp just to make sure it runs smooth and shut it off.
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:laugh:. thanx. i'm not laughing at u, its just that if my history of bad luck is any indication, i'm sure sumthn will go wrong. lol. i'll just wait.
 
contour2gq said:
Or if youre really wanting to hear it start just go ahead and start it. Its not like its going to over heat in 5 mins or something with out a radiator. Just start it and let it run till it gets norm or close to norm operating temp just to make sure it runs smooth and shut it off.
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yeah thats fine and all but its not worth the risk.
 
what risk? The temp gauge not working? Even if it wasnt work theres no way a car is going to over heat after running 5 or so mins just to make sure it aint knocking orsomething
 
biminiLX said:
You could just take it to a local radiator repair place, they might have a better solution for you.
Personally thats where I'd start.
-J
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thanx. i already took it to a local shop. they fixed it! i dunno what exactly the stuff is that they used. its hard tho. they spraypainted it as well. i asked them what it was, but the guy said industry secret. lol. anyways, the build must now go on:).

HPIM4215.jpg
 
I got an svt radiator at the junk yard for my cougar and the same part was broken on mine. I took it to a shop and they did the same exact thing. They told me its a type of sealant that bonds plastic and metal. Mine hasn't leaked yet, put about 6,000 miles on it.
 
elraido said:
that isn't JB weld by a long shot.
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That is exactly what JBweld looks like if you let it fully set without disturbing it, then spray paint it... ask me how I know. :laugh: The same can be said for most epoxies though, so you'd have to remove some paint and/or grind on it to be sure of what it was.

Looks like they popped the tank off so there's probably a backing nut on the other side like we were talking about.

BAD, if you don't me me asking, what did they charge you?
 
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SicSE said:
That is exactly what JBweld looks like if you let it fully set without disturbing it, then spray paint it... ask me how I know. :laugh: The same can be said for most epoxies though, so you'd have to remove some paint and/or grind on it to be sure of what it was.
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Exactly
 
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