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Stock Internals Adios!

crewchiefpro said:
Where did you end up getting the bearings, seals, and ARP stuff?

Mine is going back together this week a little at a time also.
Click to expand...

crewchiefpro said:
Where did you end up getting the bearings, seals, and ARP stuff?

Mine is going back together this week a little at a time also.
Click to expand...

After doing quite a bit of online searching, the cheapest I could find as far as bearings were at race-mart. $46.** for rods and $58.** for mains. Small problem. They don't have the parts on hand. The order has to go to clevite first. After waiting for over two weeks, I got tired n reordered them from summit racing. My bank is now trying to get my money back from them. If u feel like dealing with their hassle, here are the links.

http://www.race-mart.com/Clevite-CLE-CB1772P-6.html
http://www.race-mart.com/Clevite-CLE-MS2207P.html

As for the arp bolts, cheapest was on ebay. But I was very skeptical about the quality and/or reputation of the sellers. So I went with the next best which I thought was pretty good for the price at $186.** shipped.
http://www.allensfasteners.com/sear...mTxt=ARP+253-4701&btnSearch.x=0&btnSearch.y=0
 
crewchiefpro said:
What clearances are you using on Pistons and bearings?

Just got my block back, now taking crank, rods, and new pistons to be balanced before I assemble them.
Click to expand...

Stock spaced clearance. I was outta town, and picked up my block today. I'm a bit concerned tho. The machine guy very confidently told me balancing our engines are unnecessary. My biggest worry is that they only used one rod & piston to match all cylinders. I've always thought they match each piston & rod to it's own cylinder... Or am I off on that one? Anyone?
 
How can you use stock clearances on the bearings and have the crank machined? You better go back to a different machinist......
 
BAD SVT said:
Stock spaced clearance. I was outta town, and picked up my block today. I'm a bit concerned tho. The machine guy very confidently told me balancing our engines are unnecessary. My biggest worry is that they only used one rod & piston to match all cylinders. I've always thought they match each piston & rod to it's own cylinder... Or am I off on that one? Anyone?
Click to expand...
My machinist would disagree - I have each piston and rod matched to a cylinder. That being said, there 'should' be minimal variation between your parts but thats not really the point.
 
Beans said:
How can you use stock clearances on the bearings and have the crank machined? You better go back to a different machinist......
Click to expand...

My sentiments exactly. He said the crank was only polished, and thar little material was taken off in the process.

Heywood said:
My machinist would disagree - I have each piston and rod matched to a cylinder. That being said, there 'should' be minimal variation between your parts but thats not really the point.
Click to expand...

I'll speak to him tomorrow
 
The reason they only use one rod and piston is simple, they assume they are all within 1 gram. Good parts are checked by the manufacturer before they leave production, if the others are not within 1 gram then they should be sent back. The machine shops assume they have been checked, however if you want they can test each one for a price.

On my new parts we tested each piston and rod, the pistons were perfect, the rods were less than 1 gram off from heaviest to lightest. I have the exact same parts as BAD_SVT.
 
crewchiefpro said:
The reason they only use one rod and piston is simple, they assume they are all within 1 gram. Good parts are checked by the manufacturer before they leave production, if the others are not within 1 gram then they should be sent back. The machine shops assume they have been checked, however if you want they can test each one for a price.

On my new parts we tested each piston and rod, the pistons were perfect, the rods were less than 1 gram off from heaviest to lightest. I have the exact same parts as BAD_SVT.
Click to expand...

Makes sense... We do have the same wiseco pistons. Nevertheless, i'm gonna call him this morning. Thx don
 
Just a small update. All parts are in. And i have a bit of time to finally get to work on this. I'd say i'm now about 3wks away from completion.

mms_img-2123986791_zpse307aec2.jpg


mms_img406016950_zps816ac97c.jpg
 
Well sorry I never commented in here. Looks like I'm quite late to the party, but that said here you go.

Oil pump - yes, stock is fine. As you probably figued out from everyone else's posts. Buy a new OEM one they are not that expensive, but looks like you already have something there. If you really need more volume you can hone out the outlets. LSX guys do this all the time with their GM pumps, google it and there are many threads. I didn't bother as the Noble guys have no problems.

Balancing - My machine shop spec'd my pistons for me and worked with Diamond Racing. When the pistons came in I gave them my K1 rods and they did make some adjustments to the crank.

Bearings - I ended up buying mine from http://www.northernautoparts.com/, they had the best pricing with shipping that I could find at the time.
 
CSVT#49 said:
Well sorry I never commented in here. Looks like I'm quite late to the party, but that said here you go.

Oil pump - yes, stock is fine. As you probably figued out from everyone else's posts. Buy a new OEM one they are not that expensive, but looks like you already have something there. If you really need more volume you can hone out the outlets. LSX guys do this all the time with their GM pumps, google it and there are many threads. I didn't bother as the Noble guys have no problems.

Balancing - My machine shop spec'd my pistons for me and worked with Diamond Racing. When the pistons came in I gave them my K1 rods and they did make some adjustments to the crank.

Bearings - I ended up buying mine from http://www.northernautoparts.com/, they had the best pricing with shipping that I could find at the time.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Yeah, i ended up getting a new one from Ford.
 
CSVT#49 said:
If you really need more volume you can hone out the outlets. LSX guys do this all the time with their GM pumps, google it and there are many threads. I didn't bother as the Noble guys have no problems.
Click to expand...

on the subject of improving flow....... do any of you guys recommend port matching the head gasket to the oil and water passageways in the block and heads ?

I noticed that the gasket holes are much smaller than the casting holes and i would like to improve flow where ever i can ....G.
 
gorman said:
on the subject of improving flow....... do any of you guys recommend port matching the head gasket to the oil and water passageways in the block and heads ?

I noticed that the gasket holes are much smaller than the casting holes and i would like to improve flow where ever i can ....G.
Click to expand...

I was told not to touch them and that they were made smaller deliberately. I guess this would apply only on the pressure side of things, the drainbacks could probably be opened up if you wanted.
 
Heywood said:
I was told not to touch them and that they were made smaller deliberately. I guess this would apply only on the pressure side of things, the drainbacks could probably be opened up if you wanted.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that reply, yeah i would feel comfortable with drains too ... especially considering the the oiling issues the engine can have.

I asked because i would like to incease the flow to the heads if possible because i have the vortech tapping oil off the rear head. .... G.
 
Oh man.

This thread is exciting.

I'm tearing apart my 3L this summer for Pistons and Rods, in prep for the Vortech.

I'll probably buy the same exact stuff!
 
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