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I'm at the point in my forged 3L turbo build where i need to consider getting a new clutch & flywheel. I'm presently running a Spec stage 3+ & SVT flywheel combination. Nuthn wrong with it. But considering my engine will essentially be new, it's only prudent to refresh the drivetrain as well. However, after doing some research, i found that few ppl mention anything about their flywheel of choice for their turbo'd cars. Anyway, i'm gonna be purchasing this: http://www.clutchnet.com/index.php?...gory_id=1326&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=140. A formerly stage 3, & now stage 4 clutch kit from clutchnet.

My question is what flywheel should i get? I'll turn up the boost which should put me at ~400 crank hp. Some comfortability would be nice, so a lightened flywheel is outta the question. SO what are you guys running? Cluchnet aluminum flywheels? Spec alum flywheels? OEM or stock replacement flywheels? At almost 190k miles & once resurfaced, i dunno if i can still use mine.
 
crewchiefpro said:
What ring clearance did you use?
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I didn't feel comfortable using a file. And in addition, i didn't think it was worth buying the equipment(table diamond grinding wheel) for one time use. So i had the race shop handle it. I simply mentioned to them the application, turbo, max psi i'd run, & voila. For a 100bucks, that was definitely worth the peace of mind it was done right. Nevertheless, i did ask them about the spacing. They gapp'd them at 25thousandths(.025).
 
Sounds about right for Turbo application. The specs for my build are 14 thou top and 18 thou second.
 
Turns out my engine carnage was quite substantial. Life saving call on not re-using the oil pump guys, thanks. Oil pan is toast as well as you can see in the photo. Anyone have a 3L windage tray laying around they can send to me? I dunno if they're the same as a 2.5's

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On a positive note, my heads have been cleaned. Didn't break down the springs and valves tho. Machinist said it was unnecessary. He said a thorough cleaning would suffice considering there were no metal bits in my heads during inspection.

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Them some clean valves right there
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After more extensive research, i found that it is non specific. Not directionally anyway as far as that hole. And pumped up means an uncollapsed lifter/adjuster. And that the part my thumb & index are holding should remain extended or "pumped" upwards, & not pressed or bled down.
 
Yup, you got it. I think there was something when bolting in the cams to pay attention to with respect the lifters ans followers, but I can't remember it off the top of my head.

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CSVT#49 said:
Yup, you got it. I think there was something when bolting in the cams to pay attention to with respect the lifters ans followers, but I can't remember it off the top of my head.

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Click to expand...

Thanks mike. I can't think of anything that has to be done when installing cams tho. I've done six 3.0L swaps, and i didn't do anything special when bolting on the cams.
 
I want to say in the torque sequence you rotate the engine over to take pressure off of the lifters when you bolt down the cam caps.

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EDIT: I must have been smoking crack. What I mentioned above is not the case. Carry on with the good work.
 
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CSVT#49 said:
I want to say in the torque sequence you rotate the engine over to take pressure off of the lifters when you bolt down the cam caps.

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Click to expand...

Hmm. That's news to me. Neither haynes nor the ford cd nor the build manual mentions anything of the sort. Fortunately, all the N/A 3Ls i've built are still running fine. So it must not be crucial. I guess one learns daily...
 
Yea I went back and read through what I had to remember what I did and I was mistaken. Added an 'EDIT' to the other post a little bit ago.
 
Hydraulic lifters can be "pumped up" with a oil can through the hole or soaking in an oil bath. If they have already been used, there is a good chance they are pumped up. It usually pertains to new lifters.
 
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