Stazi
Veteran CEG'er
I have read way too many posts about 3L's that die soon after being installed, so here's some words of advice that I have learned from ripping out, rebuilding, converting and installing a bunch of 3L's, 2.5L's etc., etc.
1) DON'T take the heads off unless you REALLY need too - and no, you don't need to to install the center engine mount - a bench grinder and 30 minutes of your time will get that mount in there - hell even Terry Haines asked me about this technique!
2) DON'T EVER swap cam caps from one motor's heads to another - they are LINE-BORED. Say what you want, but that's a fact. Do as you please - but I warned you...see point #9
3) DON'T EVER install the caps upside down or in any place but from there original position - hence why when I pull the cams out of an engine I lay the caps out on a piece of paper EXACTLY the same way they look/sat on the head, then as soon as the cam is out I install them back onto the head. See point #9
4) ALWAYS use either builders lube or STP oil treatment as an assembly lube when building any bearing - either cam or crank. Slop it on all bearing surfaces.
5) ALWAYS swap the rod bearings on ANY engine you tear down with Clevite 77's - I have YET to use any size other than standard. Only turned cranks need oversize (1 thou or 2 thou bigger)
6) don't turn a crank unless you have too - then think about how much it'll cost you and compare that to a whole new 3L for $350
7) Never pay more than $500 for a 3L and keep the mileage below 30k - there are TONS of them out there so don't settle.
8) Get a post 2000 motor and save yourself the headaches - plus it'll be in better condition than any older motor. Stay away from the 2004's due to a possible issue with those having trapped zircon from the casting process, still sitting in the block. Zircon = sand = BAD!
9) When in doubt undo it it - and reinstall it and do it S.L.O.W. cos once it's in - well, you know how much of a C*#T it is to pull out and fix you F@$K up.
10) Don't waste time on an engine with a knock. Pitch it and get another.
11) Always save your SVT cams, SVT chains, guides and sprockets and use all of those part on the new engine. There are BIG (yet hard to notice) changes in a lot of the 3L timing equipment. Sure some stuff MAY be the same by why risk it - see #9.
12) When you get burned out doing a build stop and take a LONG break. Either start up again tomorrow or go take a shower and chill. Sometimes this helps clear your thoughts - trust me I use this point a lot.
13) NEVER EVER EVER start up an newly built engine for the first time as normal! There is no oil on anything and unless you are clueless the first few seconds of engine engines running time are were the most damage is made. Start the car with your gas pedal PLANTED and the car in neutral. This does two things. Shuts off all fuel from the injectors (designed into the program to prevent idiots from flooding the engine on start-up) and two relieves some of the pumping load from the engine due to the intake restriction being lessened. Crank it for 30seconds! This will pump oil everywhere. Then release the key and restart without touching any of the pedals. It should fire right up.
14) ALWAYS let the car idle for a few minutes and check that the coolant is being taken down - top up as necessary and WATCH the temp gauge like a hawk. If it goes past the middle of the gauge - SHUT IT OFF! See if there is an air bubble in the coolant system by squeezing the 2" thick upper rad hose a few times - this should help burp out the bubble.
15) While you are letting the engine idle up to temp check oil around and especially underneath for any coolant or oil leaks. Shut it off and fix any leaks ASAP.
16) ALWAYS USE A TORQUE WRENCH AND MAKE SURE YOU KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN INCH-POUNDS [inlb] (12 inlb = 1 ftlb), FOOT-POUNDS [ftlb], and Newton-Meters [Nm]!
1) DON'T take the heads off unless you REALLY need too - and no, you don't need to to install the center engine mount - a bench grinder and 30 minutes of your time will get that mount in there - hell even Terry Haines asked me about this technique!
2) DON'T EVER swap cam caps from one motor's heads to another - they are LINE-BORED. Say what you want, but that's a fact. Do as you please - but I warned you...see point #9
3) DON'T EVER install the caps upside down or in any place but from there original position - hence why when I pull the cams out of an engine I lay the caps out on a piece of paper EXACTLY the same way they look/sat on the head, then as soon as the cam is out I install them back onto the head. See point #9
4) ALWAYS use either builders lube or STP oil treatment as an assembly lube when building any bearing - either cam or crank. Slop it on all bearing surfaces.
5) ALWAYS swap the rod bearings on ANY engine you tear down with Clevite 77's - I have YET to use any size other than standard. Only turned cranks need oversize (1 thou or 2 thou bigger)
6) don't turn a crank unless you have too - then think about how much it'll cost you and compare that to a whole new 3L for $350
7) Never pay more than $500 for a 3L and keep the mileage below 30k - there are TONS of them out there so don't settle.
8) Get a post 2000 motor and save yourself the headaches - plus it'll be in better condition than any older motor. Stay away from the 2004's due to a possible issue with those having trapped zircon from the casting process, still sitting in the block. Zircon = sand = BAD!
9) When in doubt undo it it - and reinstall it and do it S.L.O.W. cos once it's in - well, you know how much of a C*#T it is to pull out and fix you F@$K up.
10) Don't waste time on an engine with a knock. Pitch it and get another.
11) Always save your SVT cams, SVT chains, guides and sprockets and use all of those part on the new engine. There are BIG (yet hard to notice) changes in a lot of the 3L timing equipment. Sure some stuff MAY be the same by why risk it - see #9.
12) When you get burned out doing a build stop and take a LONG break. Either start up again tomorrow or go take a shower and chill. Sometimes this helps clear your thoughts - trust me I use this point a lot.
13) NEVER EVER EVER start up an newly built engine for the first time as normal! There is no oil on anything and unless you are clueless the first few seconds of engine engines running time are were the most damage is made. Start the car with your gas pedal PLANTED and the car in neutral. This does two things. Shuts off all fuel from the injectors (designed into the program to prevent idiots from flooding the engine on start-up) and two relieves some of the pumping load from the engine due to the intake restriction being lessened. Crank it for 30seconds! This will pump oil everywhere. Then release the key and restart without touching any of the pedals. It should fire right up.
14) ALWAYS let the car idle for a few minutes and check that the coolant is being taken down - top up as necessary and WATCH the temp gauge like a hawk. If it goes past the middle of the gauge - SHUT IT OFF! See if there is an air bubble in the coolant system by squeezing the 2" thick upper rad hose a few times - this should help burp out the bubble.
15) While you are letting the engine idle up to temp check oil around and especially underneath for any coolant or oil leaks. Shut it off and fix any leaks ASAP.
16) ALWAYS USE A TORQUE WRENCH AND MAKE SURE YOU KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN INCH-POUNDS [inlb] (12 inlb = 1 ftlb), FOOT-POUNDS [ftlb], and Newton-Meters [Nm]!
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