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Possible R.I.P for #4754... :cry:

I'll have to continue to talk to dad. Any of our decisions are not gonna be immediate, so im not sure whats gonna happen. And, Alias... my car has 147,xxx miles on it. So, if i do end up pulling the motor, i am pretty sure dad will at least inspect the trans, if no at least change the forks/syncros.

if i do any swap, i'm gonna show him all the info i can find and everything that have to be changed/improved while its all apart. I want him to lean towards a port-matched 3L, or a straight 3L. i'll have to do some more research and show him more pictures and everything before he makes his decision. Thanks for all your imputs guys!!

-Mike.
 
why do you say that. from what i read in the 3L section, the full 3L is harder and you will def need a tune, where a port-matched you wont NEED one right away
 
Black 98 CSVT said:
just do a full 3L swap. so many less headaches for a first timer
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CRGkart44 said:
why do you say that. from what i read in the 3L section, the full 3L is harder and you will def need a tune, where a port-matched you wont NEED one right away
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thats exactly why i want a port-matched. plus i've always wanted one since i had the car for about a year and started looking in the 3L section.

but this is the update: Mom and Dad have told me that they are going to assist me financially with the car...AFTER they get the cruise paid off for(they planned that 1 1/2 years ago, and we have enough cars to get by til then) so, i basically have til around April to SAVE UP and to look up all my info and see what else i can get, maybe might as well do tranny work and headers and everything else thats not fun to do while the motor is in. I also have to show dad about the bolt-up of the 3L, he's worried about the EGR system and the exhaust not lining up with everything.
 
I had the same issue with my silver 98 last fall. before you do anything drastic, pull the alternator belt off and see if it starts. I had the same noise coming from the same area, and it was a bad bearing in the alternator. It seized and the friction in the belt was enough to prevent the car from running. I too started looking into 3L swaps, but then decided to give it a shot, pulled the belt off, got in, and sure enough it started right up. I actually bought another SVT that had a "seized engine" , sure enough, same thing.

I have personally seen it on 3 contours- it takes 2 minutes to pull the belt and give it a try
 
CRGkart44 said:
why do you say that. from what i read in the 3L section, the full 3L is harder and you will def need a tune, where a port-matched you wont NEED one right away
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I have a full 3.0L with a stock tune. No problems yet. KyleQ has over 30K miles on his full 3.0L with no tune as well....and he isn't the most gentle person with his vehicles. :laugh:
 
CRGkart44 said:
from what i read, i though it wouldnt run well with a stock tune. mostly becasue the secondaries are removed?
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Granted, it still thinks the secondaries are there and there is more of a kick once it gets above the 3.5K RPM mark but it still runs fine. Once you get the tune it will run like a top from the 1K mark all the way up.
 
i would have to get a tune. From my understanding the CEL willl come on. in the great state of NY, i cant have any CEL codes for my car to pass inspection every year
 
CRGkart44 said:
i would have to get a tune. From my understanding the CEL willl come on. in the great state of NY, i cant have any CEL codes for my car to pass inspection every year
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you can rig up a spring to make the imrc think its working correctly.
 
elraido said:
Or just leave the IRMC hooked up until you get a tune. That is what I have on mine. :shrug:
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so its plugged in and the cable just hangs there? wouldn't that trip a code? others have talked about rigging up a spring so the work like it should.
 
BrApple said:
so its plugged in and the cable just hangs there? wouldn't that trip a code? others have talked about rigging up a spring so the work like it should.
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It is plugged in and the cord is wrapped up as well. All of it is neatly tucked behind the battery. Can you see it? :laugh:
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The full 3.0L is a completely different car than a 2.5L. Gobs of power up until around 5.5K, and like I said there would be even more under the 3.5K mark if it was tuned. Torque Torque Torque.
 
Thanks for all the discusion guys! Dad has been looking around online at work..LOL. so, i'm guessing we're keeping the car! sorry bagged and blu_fuz. :eek: But he somehow found www.3lduratec.com and its really leaning towards that, the only thing killing him is the price. So, i am going to talk to him a little more and maybe he can lean to another source that i have gotten in touch with and use them instead.
 
CRGkart44 said:
find a local junk yard. you may be able fo find a cheaper motor and not have to pay for shipping:shrug:
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that source is 2300 for it, and my other souce its about 1/2 that price. plus, dad would rather pay a little bit more and have it done professionally, rather than us do it and maybe eff something up. plus, we dont have the tools/space to do this.
 
you still have to buy the motor. again, if you can find a decent motor at a junk yard it will be MUCH cheaper than buying one online or something. and again.. no shipping. but oyu gotta look at miles and condition and what not. then take the motor to a shop and have them put it in.
 
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