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My 3L Build

Heywood said:
Great work in finding all the information you need without creating a million different threads and getting through your buld so quickly. Keep it up! Hope you get it fired shortly.
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Thanks man! Well just a quick update on the progress: yesterday it was snowing and cold. So I called that guy to weld up my oil pan, thankfully he was able to get it done around 3:00 yesterday. So I picked it up at 4:15. Then I went to advance and rented the crank pulley pulled AGAIN :) So I started working on thr car around 5:00. I got the timing cover off, changed the pulse wheel, checked the oil pan for leaks where he welded, took thr alternator bracket off, and then buttoned it all back up and dropped the motor in my car (with the tranny as one unit. Then I just basically installed the two big motor
Mounts to get the weight of the motor off the engine lift for the night. Today after work I wanna hurry and get everything plugged in and try to start it!!!!!! Lol I'm excited I hope it goes well. I've thought real hard about stuff I may have overlooked and the only thing I thought of was the pulse wheel.

I couldn't remove the two sensors on the block on my 2.5 so i will rewire the 3.0 sensors into my SVT wiring harness. The one towards the front of thr car just has one wire and the one on the rear of the motor has two wires. That's the only thing I have left to do besides plugging everything in to be able to start the car.

Also since I broke my AC compressor getting it off for now I got a AC DELETE belt length and will just skip the ac for now.

I'll let you guys know how it goes! Also I have an older IOS for my iPhone so I can't download the app for this site, but once I can download the app I'll upload all my pictures of my build and everything. Have a great day!
 
For others doing the 3.0 swap: DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE PILOT BUSHING FEOM THE CRANK AND DON'T FORGET TO SET THE PULSE WHEEL ACCORDING TO THE TIMING COVER YOU'RE USING!!! (the timing cover is where the pulse wheel sensor is, so the setting on the pulse wheel has to match THAT sensor!!!)
 
Just a quick update: Got home from work late so didn't have too much time. But just continued plugging stuff up. Got the oil cooler hoses connected, fixed a couple wires that were exposed and started to repair a couple vaccum lines that broke. But it was getting cold quick so I stopped :)

Tonight I have to go to Pittsburg for a DRs appointment tomorrow morning real early, so won't be tackling the motor until we get back Friday evening.

Y'all have fun!
 
Quicksight said:
Just a quick update: Got home from work late so didn't have too much time. But just continued plugging stuff up. Got the oil cooler hoses connected, fixed a couple wires that were exposed and started to repair a couple vaccum lines that broke. But it was getting cold quick so I stopped :)

Tonight I have to go to Pittsburg for a DRs appointment tomorrow morning real early, so won't be tackling the motor until we get back Friday evening.

Y'all have fun!
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Good stuff! Inspiring thread, I cannot wait to make one of my own. Did you do any transaxle upgrades, such as a torsen?
 
Kresnik said:
Good stuff! Inspiring thread, I cannot wait to make one of my own. Did you do any transaxle upgrades, such as a torsen?
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No I have not. I wanted to do so much more than I did but funds are limited and I just wanted to get the car on the road since I missed it for SOO long. Maybe later I will do more to it :) I have a few cars so I can spend a little time doing stuff to it later.
 
Quicksight said:
No I have not. I wanted to do so much more than I did but funds are limited and I just wanted to get the car on the road since I missed it for SOO long. Maybe later I will do more to it :) I have a few cars so I can spend a little time doing stuff to it later.
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I hear on and off that a 3.0L will kill the differential and that a LSD is a must have. While I really do want it right now, I'm in the same cash-strapped boat of not being able to justify it right now. If all goes well, I can do the 3.0L for about $400 -- which I can afford.
 
Kresnik said:
I hear on and off that a 3.0L will kill the differential and that a LSD is a must have. While I really do want it right now, I'm in the same cash-strapped boat of not being able to justify it right now. If all goes well, I can do the 3.0L for about $400 -- which I can afford.
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Yea 400$ isn't bad. I actually spent almost as much on my gaskets and oil and coolant and tranny fluid and filters and seals than I did on my motor lol
 
Quicksight said:
Yea 400$ isn't bad. I actually spent almost as much on my gaskets and oil and coolant and tranny fluid and filters and seals than I did on my motor lol
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This! I bought a motor for $400 and was up over $1k when all said and done. The little things add up fast while you're not looking!
 
Heywood said:
This! I bought a motor for $400 and was up over $1k when all said and done. The little things add up fast while you're not looking!
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I removed the motor and transaxle twice in the past few months, and in the process replaced a lot of parts and fixed a huge number of other smaller issues. So, I'm kind of going it with a bit of an advantage in that I know most everything will can be removed and negotiated with a minimum of hassle. The motor will cost me about $300, and a complete head set will run me about $100.

It's oil change time anyhow, so I'm not factoring that in -- although I do intend to put a new oil pan gasket on after I examine the internals from the underside and didn't factor in timing components -- but I digress, this thread isn't about my build. /end derailing.

:)
 
Well just a quick update: we got home FEOM Pittsburg around 7:00. So I quickly got started on putting the machine back together :) I finished EVERYTHING except installing the axles and suspension, thr exhaust and bleeding the slave cylinder. Any pointers on how to bees the slave cylinder? I didn't see a bleeder bolt/valve to do it with, it was dark I could have over looked it. Also since the exhaust was off I didn't wanna start the car and wake up my wife so that'll be tomorrow. ALSO: on the driver side I found ONE wire that looks almost identical to the pulse wheel sensor wire/plug and the camshaft sensor wire/plug on the timing cover. It's yellow with red rubber to make the seal. I couldn't find where it goes. Other than that all other plugs are accounted for. I went ahead wired in the two sensor from the 3L block to the 2.5 wires. Also fixed my vacuum lines today.

Any tips on bleeding the slave cylinder and where that plug goes would be awesome! I also have two ground wires coming from the rear of the motor, I'm just gonna connect them on the body somewhere.

Thanks guys!
 
The plug is directly underneath the EGR tube on the wiring harness (close to there) there isn't another cam sensor on that end of the motor is there?
 
Quicksight said:
Bleed the slave cylinder*
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Open the slave cylinder bleeder as well as the brake master cylinder lid. You can use a clear hose on the slave bleeder to collect the fluid and monitor for air bubbles. Simply gravity drain the system this way, keeping certain that the fluid in the master cylinder stays full. It took me perhaps.. 10 minutes or so to completely bleed the system this way to where I couldn't see any bubbles in the clear hose attached to the slave nipple. Once you see no bubbles, remove the hose, tighten the nut and then replace the master cylinder cap. Peddle should set after a pump or two and remain excellent. :)
 
Quicksight said:
The plug is directly underneath the EGR tube on the wiring harness (close to there) there isn't another cam sensor on that end of the motor is there?
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Not a cam sensor, though perhaps a knock sensor.. ? or egr purge? I need to look again. :/
 
WEll I found where the sensor was LOL. My brother was right it's best to work on the car in the day light lol. It connected directly to the EGR flow valve. Right on top, possibly the easiest sensor to get to on the whole car.

Thanks guys. Gonna be starting it here soon...FINGERS CROSSED :)
 
Kresnik said:
Open the slave cylinder bleeder as well as the brake master cylinder lid. You can use a clear hose on the slave bleeder to collect the fluid and monitor for air bubbles. Simply gravity drain the system this way, keeping certain that the fluid in the master cylinder stays full. It took me perhaps.. 10 minutes or so to completely bleed the system this way to where I couldn't see any bubbles in the clear hose attached to the slave nipple. Once you see no bubbles, remove the hose, tighten the nut and then replace the master cylinder cap. Peddle should set after a pump or two and remain excellent. :)
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Sounds very simple thanks man! I'll do this here in a few minutes.
 
Turned over but no start..checked fuel pressure; good. Check spark; good...gonna go get an OBDII scanner to see whats up
 
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