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My 3L Build

gorman said:
interesting, you're in Texas too.

Maybe you could log your oil temps when you get on it ... G.
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Never logged it. But i'm pretty sure it's up there.
Beans said:
I remember specifically a thread about one of your engine asplodes. Where a oil cooler was suggested for you...
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U're probably right. But I don't remember anyone touting the advantages of an aftermarket one over stock. I'll look into one. The price tag on my build is starting to get up to a place I wasn't expecting anyway. So I might as well go all the way.
 
Well just a quick update: got everything all buttoned up. I'm installing my tranny and my oil pan busted bad because the tranny wasn't flush to the engine. I'm thinking my clutch wasn't lined up good enough (because I didn't have a clutch alignment tool). Why can't I use the Taurus oil pan and pickup tube? I don't wanna buy an escape oil pan because then I'll have to get the pickup tube and dipstick with it. Just more money that I don't wanna spend on this car. So far I'm about 800$ into it : / The new contour oil pan is only 129$. I'm real irritated that it broke. And it started raining :( thanks guys.
 
My 3L Build

Sounds like you forgot to take out the pilot bushing to me.

I would get an escape pan instead.
 
Beans said:
Sounds like you forgot to take out the pilot bushing to me.

I would get an escape pan instead.
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I really hope that isn't it. It'd suck to have to pull the engine again for sumthn that small. Did u remember to cut flat or remove the pilot bushing on the rear crank? It's the shiny mini donut looking metal round thing.
 
BAD SVT said:
I really hope that isn't it. It'd suck to have to pull the engine again for sumthn that small. Did u remember to cut flat or remove the pilot bushing on the rear crank? It's the shiny mini donut looking metal round thing.
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It is the pilot bushing. Me and my brother both over looked that and I didn't remember reading anything about it..however the motor and trans are out of the car. We removed them as one unit. Right now I'm just cutting it flush with the crank (as close as I can without getting into the crank too much. Does it have to come ALL the way out or will just cutting it flush work? Thanks for the help guys.
 
Quicksight said:
It is the pilot bushing. Me and my brother both over looked that and I didn't remember reading anything about it..however the motor and trans are out of the car. We removed them as one unit. Right now I'm just cutting it flush with the crank (as close as I can without getting into the crank too much. Does it have to come ALL the way out or will just cutting it flush work? Thanks for the help guys.
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Some here like the whole thing removed for piece of mind and because they worry about the crank being unbalanced. I personally just cut mine flush and even so it is fairly well balanced. I'm not building a 400hp blueprinted beast so it didn't bother me and I have had no noticible vibrations or indications it is causing me any problems at all.
 
Beans said:
you better do more reading before dropping it in. or you are going to make more mistakes.
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dun dun dunnn Pulse wheel dun dun dunnnnnnnn.

As for pilot bushing - cut it flush of pull it out - whichevers easier for you. I forgot that mine was cut flush and just had my crank balanced with it still there. Can't remove it now.
 
Well we cut it flush and then grinded it super thin and was able to get it out no problems. Got the tranny bolted up ok now. Gonna start to drop it in tomorrow. I'll replace the oil pan after it's in the car probably, I pulled the oil pan off the car with the motor in it before when I inspected the rod bearing a few years ago. Getting excited to drive this car again, it's been due for some lovely driving :)

I hope everything will go smoothly!
 
Heywood said:
dun dun dunnn Pulse wheel dun dun dunnnnnnnn.

As for pilot bushing - cut it flush of pull it out - whichevers easier for you. I forgot that mine was cut flush and just had my crank balanced with it still there. Can't remove it now.
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The pulse wheel needs to be swapped out? The one from the 2.5 goes into the 3.0. How come they seem almost identical?
 
So I found some info on it: basically the pulse wheel has TWO key holes on in and I need to set it according to WHICH timing cover I'm using. SO: I'm using a contour timing cover which means I need to change the key hole to the furthest from the gap in the teeth. Now my question is this: does the pulse wheel need to be swapped with the 2.5 to go on the 3.0? And also what does a pulse wheel do so it would keep your car from starting if it's turned the wrong way? Thanks again guys. Glad I caught this before I out it in the car I'd hate to have to take it out OH MY WORD I WOULD BE SO UPSET LOL

Maybe I will update all the stuff I did to make sure I didn't miss anything before the install tomorrow.

Night!
 
Here's this as well from my build. The pulse wheel is for the crank position sensor.

ubuzu5es.jpg
 
Well just an update on my progress: IRS raining and pretty cold today, not sure if I'll be able to do much outside. I did find a guy to weld my oil pan for 60$. Also today I will take the timing cover off and change the position on the pulse wheel.
 
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