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Kill Switch

The only side note is that starting the car with the high beams on is going to drain more battery. If you have a perfectly good battery no worries, but if your battery was getting weak its harder to turn the starter with the headlights on.

I think I'll use a different source if I ever wire in a safety switch. There are endless possibilities really, any power source will work. For example you could also use the rear defrost switch or the parking lights, either would draw less power then the headlights I'd imagine.

Just some thoughts.
 
If you can't crank the starter due to lack of power with the highbeams on then, one would assume you should get a new battery anyhow
 
If it's as simple as tapping into the status wire, maybe you could show me which one it is at ESOB.:rolleyes:


What RS do you have? 99% of the status wire are negative. I would have to think about what wire would be the easiest to do this with for your situation tom.
 
If you can't crank the starter due to lack of power with the highbeams on then, one would assume you should get a new battery anyhow

ditto. i was thinking about different possibilities, though. one possibility would be more than one relay, so like you have to have your parking lights on to activate the first relay, then your defroster, or something like that for the second, so that there are several requirements for starting the car, like a code. there are tons of possibilities, really, especially if you go for more than one relay.:)
 
ditto. i was thinking about different possibilities, though. one possibility would be more than one relay, so like you have to have your parking lights on to activate the first relay, then your defroster, or something like that for the second, so that there are several requirements for starting the car, like a code. there are tons of possibilities, really, especially if you go for more than one relay.:)

Nice! open glove box, turn on parking lights, pull high beam, turn on dome light, push hidden button to crank starter.... god I sure hope you never have to start your car in a hurry LOL :)
 
i just had a thought (i know, it surprised me, too!): flipping the headlight bar back towards you flashes the brights, ya? so, does anybody know if when you flip the bar forward, to turn on your brights when your headlights are on, if that sends power through its wire, even when the headlights are off? if so, that would be a MUCH better solution, especially considering the fact that people at my shop are starting to ask why i keep flashing my brights when starting my car, and i keep telling them there's a short there!
 
i just had a thought (i know, it surprised me, too!): flipping the headlight bar back towards you flashes the brights, ya? so, does anybody know if when you flip the bar forward, to turn on your brights when your headlights are on, if that sends power through its wire, even when the headlights are off? if so, that would be a MUCH better solution

Forward will only send power through the circuit if the headlights are turned on as well... either way you'd have the brights on.... My thought would be to put an override switch on the high beam output, so you could pull your bar back to start it, without turning the high beams on.... then when you need high beams... flip the switch and the high beams function like normal...

especially considering the fact that people at my shop are starting to ask why i keep flashing my brights when starting my car, and i keep telling them there's a short there!

ROFL
 
possible that maybe flipping the bar forward could produce power with a suitable ground? i'm saying we know that no power goes through, but maybe it's because the circuit's only grounded when the headlight switch is on, so with a good ground, the circuit would produce a spark when you flip the bar forward. well, i guess that's a tough question to answer, i'll try it out soon and let you know.
 
High%20Beam%20Switch%20Explained.JPG
 
oh, thanks for that. although, the point of using a relay for me is to avoid adding switches. the flasher bar (i really can't think of what to call it) is the only switch i wish to use, so i may add an additional relay, cutting the flasher wire:
flasher (from switch, after tap to security relay): node 30
flasher (to lights, again, after tap): node 87a
starter (tapped from ignition switch): node 85
ground: node 86
Then just cap off 87, so that the flasher would always be powered, except for when the starter activates the relay to disable it. That could work.
 
what if you splice the replay power into the parking lights .... if your like me I always drive with the parking/fog lamps on. This way you turn them on first then start the car like normal ... no flashing lights to start the car and you don't need to mess with a switch for the high beams ...
 
99% of the starter kills are hooked up off of the Parking lights. If I was gonna steal a car thats the first thing i would do is turn on the parking lights
 
99% of the starter kills are hooked up off of the Parking lights. If I was gonna steal a car thats the first thing i would do is turn on the parking lights


well I had no idea ... so are you talking starter kills like this or alarms that disable the starter?
 
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