Since we are discussing this, how would you run the wires to the door? And where do most people keep the amp that they use for the door speakers at?
To above, why drill holes when you can just run it through the boot or use the factory wiring?
For ~50w that's fine, but for ~100w and/or components in the doors you have to go the extra mile if you want to do it right.Lol you guys have it all wrong. Cut the speaker wires off at the headunit wiring harness and splice in the needed length to run it to the amp. You dont need to run new wires to the speakers.
For ~50w that's fine, but for ~100w and/or components in the doors you have to go the extra mile if you want to do it right.
I had to pull all my carpet up to run my wires.
dude look at the tinsel leads that go to your speakers and tell me they are a huge bit bigger than the stock speaker wires?For ~50w that's fine, but for ~100w and/or components in the doors you have to go the extra mile if you want to do it right.
I had to pull all my carpet up to run my wires.
If that's your arguement you don't belong in the debate.dude look at the tinsel leads that go to your speakers and tell me they are a huge bit bigger than the stock speaker wires?
What's active/passive have to do with it? If you have a 2 way component set in the door and a standard passive crossover you have to run both the woofer and tweeter lead into the door -- unless of course you mount the x/o in the door.The only reason you would have an issue doing so is if your running a fully active 2/3 way setup in the doors.
at 60-70w there shouldn't be an issue on stock wiring. You're probably losing a watt or 2 more than using a good sized speaker wire. Doubtful you'd even hear a difference in a side by side listening test.*edit* This is also coming from a guy that made the effort to run new wires in my silver svt. Not worth the extra effort. I ran a kicker 700.5 to RF Fanatic X component fronts and kicker coax rears in my cougar on stock wiring. ran from the amp under the carpet to the stock harness and it sounded great, caused no issues.
im not going to get into this pissing match lol. I am not saying that running new wire isnt better, I am however going to say it isn't worth the effort for the majority of people unless they are going extreme. If your not going all out on quality equipment then why bother going way beyond on the freaking wiring?If that's your arguement you don't belong in the debate.
The tensile leads are bare copper wire - if they do get a little warm carrying a lot of current it's not going to hurt anything. Plus, they're so short they drop almost no voltage at all.
A ~10' run of speaker wire is a much different scenario.
What's active/passive have to do with it? If you have a 2 way component set in the door and a standard passive crossover you have to run both the woofer and tweeter lead into the door -- unless of course you mount the x/o in the door.
at 60-70w there shouldn't be an issue on stock wiring. You're probably losing a watt or 2 more than using a good sized speaker wire. Doubtful you'd even hear a difference in a side by side listening test.
That 400w sub channel is where you'd want the 12 ga lead.
again - as long as the awg is sufficient lamp cord's fine. In most cases it's fine for full range speakers, but in these days of 1, 2, 3kw amps you often need something significantly larger than 16-18 ga for subs.
If you're running a few hundred watts through 5-10' of 18 ga wire you will definitely have some considerable voltage drop, which means less power to the driver.