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3L turbo final round

TourEnvy said:
Did you replace the cam caps on the right sides and in the correct order?
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yup. positive. they are even numbered.

SicSE said:
Better to feel a little silly now making SURE you have it right, then feel a little silly later with a bunch of bent valves. :blackeye:

Sorry, but do NOT leave the cam caps loose when you're timing the engine. Make sure you've got some fresh lube on all cam journals & torque the cam caps to spec. These are some of the most important bolts on this engine to torque to spec, IMO... and it's done BEFORE installing the chains.

Bank 2 looks good, (bank on the right in the pics, for any who are unsure), but if you've spun the engine over, being that the tensioner is not installed, I would double check it as well. Bank 1 is WAY off, BTW, in respects to bank 2. The first thing you should do, is install the crank pulley bolt into the crank so that you can spin the engine with a wrench, (pulling the spark plugs also makes it substantially easier, as I think someone already mentioned). Remove your bank one chain & double check the timing marks on bank 2. If you can still see the different colored links, then just make sure they line up, if not, count the links in the chain, following a clockwise direction from the crank. The crank keyway link is the zero link. The 29th link from the crank keyway link is where the bank 2 intake cam mark should be. The 42nd link from the crank keyway link is where the exhaust timing mark should be. Make sure your timing is right for bank 2, install the tensioner & pull the pin to put tension on the chain. Once you've got the timing set for bank 2, spin the crank only enough to line up the timing marks for bank 1, (counterclockwise in your case). If the crank won't spin far enough to line up the timing marks, you've got piston-to-valve contact & you'll have to back the crank up some & rotate the cams to put the valves in better position. Once bank 1 is lined up & tensioned, spin the crank clockwise to where bank 2 timing marks are @ 9 & 12, and make sure bank 1 marks are where they're supposed to be.
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thanx man. i'll go try again.
 
Good luck man... but I gotta say, just dropping in a junkyard engine and crossing your fingers doesn't bode well for your Conour's "final round"... and that's with a factory, NA application. Throw boost in the mix and it's a recipe for an early demise IMO.
 
SicSE said:
Good luck man... but I gotta say, just dropping in a junkyard engine and crossing your fingers doesn't bode well for your Conour's "final round"... and that's with a factory, NA application. Throw boost in the mix and it's a recipe for an early demise IMO.
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yes I would agree. Im running a junkyard 3L with boost. if it goes it goes, motor wasn't designed for the boost. but I would never call it the final round. either drop another 3L in or build one so one never has to worry.
 
SicSE said:
Good luck man... but I gotta say, just dropping in a junkyard engine and crossing your fingers doesn't bode well for your Conour's "final round"... and that's with a factory, NA application. Throw boost in the mix and it's a recipe for an early demise IMO.
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i know. i know. i dont have the extra funds to go forged. at least not for the car. its taken way too much of my money already. and its driven only on weekends. like i said b4, if it pops, i'll part it out. between the hood, headlights, turbo kit, exhaust, and all the extra stuff this car has, i wont feel too bad after selling them:).
 
I GOT IT! wow. thanx ppl. i knew i was doing sumthn wrong. i didnt know u could tighten down the cams while lifted. seemed wrong to me. but its done now. for the 3l beginners like myself who are bound to follow, try not to use the haynes manual. rather confusing and omits steps. i placed the pulsewheel with the keyway at the 11/5 position too. double holes on the keyway side, and missing tooth on the other side. i hope i was right on that one.
 
when i bolted back up the timing cover, heres how it looked. the marks dont line up cos i was turning the crank to make sure there was no jumping. and it spun rather smoothly. oh, and i used black hitemp rtv for the timing cover. i can use that as well for the valvecover/heads junction right?

3lturbofinalround024.jpg


and the pulsewheel

3lturbofinalround020.jpg
 
BAD SVT said:
lol. evan(tourenvy) has dibs on that, sorry:). i see there's still a lotta faith in our beloved duratec:laugh:.
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I've got PLENTY of faith in the duratec, probably more than most. It's the junkyard part of the equation that makes me cringe... on ANY engine platform. I've just seen too many early-death-by-spun-rod-bearing scenarios with junkyard R&R's.

BAD SVT said:
i can use that as well for the valvecover/heads junction right?
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Yessir.

Just to make sure... you ARE using a 2.5l front cover right? Because it looks like that's the keyway you used on the trigger wheel.
 
SicSE said:
I've got PLENTY of faith in the duratec, probably more than most. It's the junkyard part of the equation that makes me cringe... on ANY engine platform. I've just seen too many early-death-by-spun-rod-bearing scenarios with junkyard R&R's.


Yessir.

Just to make sure... you ARE using a 2.5l front cover right? Because it looks like that's the keyway you used on the trigger wheel.
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none of the other covers fit in the contour chassis.
 
SicSE said:
I've got PLENTY of faith in the duratec, probably more than most. It's the junkyard part of the equation that makes me cringe... on ANY engine platform. I've just seen too many early-death-by-spun-rod-bearing scenarios with junkyard R&R's.


Yessir.

Just to make sure... you ARE using a 2.5l front cover right? Because it looks like that's the keyway you used on the trigger wheel.
Click to expand...

yup. 2.5 timing cover. thanx again for the help bro.
 
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