BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
i'm going port-matched, so that sorta remains the same:laugh:. it was only an issue on the 2.5.
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3L turbo final round
- Thread starter BAD SVT
- Start date
i'm going port-matched, so that sorta remains the same:laugh:. it was only an issue on the 2.5.
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
i've set the timing. however, the crank simply wont turn now. what am i doing wrong? pls help:
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.Beans
Addicted CEG'er
Um well.... What timing components are you using? You cant use 3L stuff on svt cams.
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
all 2.5 stuff except cam caps. i tried by hand, but wont move. i then threaded in the crankbolt to turn it. only moved a bit and then thud. nuthn. just to mention, the haynes manual is friggn confusing.
TRicker
Hard-core CEG'er
did you line up the timing marks correctly? also did you overtighten the cam caps?
they are in inch lbs, which comes down to about 7 ft/lbs for the caps. i hope you used assembly lube or at least soaked the cams in oil before assembling as well. with the spark plugs in, you should have a fairly hard time turning the engine over
they are in inch lbs, which comes down to about 7 ft/lbs for the caps. i hope you used assembly lube or at least soaked the cams in oil before assembling as well. with the spark plugs in, you should have a fairly hard time turning the engine over
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
i believe i timed them correctly. i did it, undid it and did it again about 4-5times. heres how i timed it.
1) i set the cams on the front head with the little marks on the cams pointing at the 12 & 9 oclock. at this point, the crank keyway is at 11oclock. 2 links on the chain are sitting on those marks, while the last link at the bottom is on the keyway. the front should be set now.
2) i then turn the crank by hand using the flywheel to the 3oclock position. less than 1 revolution.
3) the rear cams i then line up with the marks on the cams pointing at 12 & 9.(at this point, i should mention that both rear cams are not at rest/neutral. they're pushed up). i then place the top two links on the marks at 12 and 9. the bottom link is also on the keyway.
At this point, both banks should be set. what am i doing wrong? or is it not possible to hand turn the crank when both chains are on?
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never set the timing myself but from what I recall watching you don't rotate the engine when setting the rear bank. you also want the cam caps loose.
todras
Pretty fly for a white guy *cowbell*
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
really? thanx brian. if this is correct, then i'm returning the haynes manual ASAP!!! and i dont care how greased up it is
thanx a bunch for the pic todd. so do i not have to turn the crank to time the rear then? in other words, i set the chains ONE TIME as shown in the picture and its done?
TRicker
Hard-core CEG'er
yeah.... the crankshaft keyway should be at 11 oclock', but i think you might have forgotten one point that you didnt state on your post bro.
piston #1 should be at top dead center, and the keyway will be at 11 oclock incidentally
piston #1 should be at top dead center, and the keyway will be at 11 oclock incidentally
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
am not sure i'm following...
TRicker
Hard-core CEG'er
piston on cylinder #1 should be at top dead center before you start timing anything. that is more important than "where the keyway is" on the crank. if your one tooth off on the crank sprocket, your probably knocking, hence the no crankidy crank when trying to spin it over.
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
by top dead center, u mean at rest right? gotcha. i'll try it again. thanx
. GOD! my palms hurt from all that flywheel turning. but i do have to turn the crank again to time the rear bank, correct? or is that all done the same time as the front? i ask cos the haynes manual says to turn it b4 timing the rear.todras
Pretty fly for a white guy *cowbell*
You just set like in the pic. That's it. Once the tensioners are released it's done.
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
i know u guys must think am retarded now. but i've gotta be doing sumthn fundamentally wrong that i dont know yet. so i went back to the car to try again. here are 4pix of where the chain sits now.
the top is done.
PIC BELOW- the link with the paint mark is the different colored one. the front bank chain is all good. where down here tho does the second bank link chain sit? the one with the paint mark that is... cos it seems to be able to fit on any 3 given links at the bottom fine. <- Therein lies the issue... the picture todd posted in the previous page doesnt show it, as the pulse wheel is covering it.
the top is done.
PIC BELOW- the link with the paint mark is the different colored one. the front bank chain is all good. where down here tho does the second bank link chain sit? the one with the paint mark that is... cos it seems to be able to fit on any 3 given links at the bottom fine. <- Therein lies the issue... the picture todd posted in the previous page doesnt show it, as the pulse wheel is covering it.
todras
Pretty fly for a white guy *cowbell*
Needs more of my Ford CD. Never used anything else but that for timing. I have a book of specific things like this that I have printed from that CD. I should sell copies for 3L swappers. It's my swap bible. I'll post up step by step tomorrow since I don't have time right now.
Both timing chain marks line up with the mark on the crank sprocket. Once you tension the chain, there's only 1 link that it will fit on.
TourEnvy
Hard-core CEG'er
Did you replace the cam caps on the right sides and in the correct order?
SicSE
Veteran CEG'er
Better to feel a little silly now making SURE you have it right, then feel a little silly later with a bunch of bent valves. :blackeye:
Sorry, but do NOT leave the cam caps loose when you're timing the engine. Make sure you've got some fresh lube on all cam journals & torque the cam caps to spec. These are some of the most important bolts on this engine to torque to spec, IMO... and it's done BEFORE installing the chains.
Bank 2 looks good, (bank on the right in the pics, for any who are unsure), but if you've spun the engine over, being that the tensioner is not installed, I would double check it as well. Bank 1 is WAY off, BTW, in respects to bank 2. The first thing you should do, is install the crank pulley bolt into the crank so that you can spin the engine with a wrench, (pulling the spark plugs also makes it substantially easier, as I think someone already mentioned). Remove your bank one chain & double check the timing marks on bank 2. If you can still see the different colored links, then just make sure they line up, if not, count the links in the chain, following a clockwise direction from the crank. The chain link on the crank timing mark will be the zero link. With the crank keyway @ approximately 11 o'clock, the crank timing mark should be at approximately 5:30. The 29th link from the crank link should be on the bank 2 intake cam mark. The 42nd link from the crank link should be on the exhaust cam timing mark. Make sure your timing is right for bank 2, install the tensioner & pull the pin to put tension on the chain. Once you've got the timing set for bank 2, spin the crank only enough to line up the timing marks for bank 1, (counterclockwise in your case). If the crank won't spin far enough to line up the timing marks, you've got piston-to-valve contact & you'll have to back the crank up some & rotate the cams to put the valves in better position. Bank 1 is the same, but the 29th link in that chain will be for the exhaust cam timing mark, and the 42nd link will be for the intake cam timing mark. Once bank 1 is lined up & tensioned, make sure all the links line up with their corresponding timing marks and rotate the engin at least one full crank revolution. At this point, the marks will not longer line up, this is just done to eliminate as much slack as possible from the chains for when you go to start it up.