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what should i do first?

You might want to put what little you have INTO FIXING IT THEN!

i said performance the safety stuff is coming in first. i just have to wait for reebs to take it all out of his parts car. why do i need sway bar bushings?

added: i dont really think there is a problem with my suspension right now, other then its stock.
also, the engine sucking air does make sense i just never thought you would be able to hear it on a n/a car, esp an inline 4

dude lay off. i already said i was fixing the currently known problems, before i do any of this stuff. geez...
 
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yeah, but it would be nice if he could remember what i said before he gets on me about my car not being safe.
 
I don't mean to argue with you or argue for todras, but I'm sure he's just merely pointing out that the car should be problem-free before spending money on mods that in the end wouldn't be worth it if there was a major problem with the car, that's all.
 
oh yeah, i know. if you would like to know my full plan.

1st. replace airbags (they have deployed from a ridiculously small crash)
2nd. replace drivers door and drivers side front fender (were damaged befor car was purchased, unknown cause)
3rd. any performance parts i have money for(granted i dont have any other problems to fix)
 
resonators....but i was orginally thinking of baffles, but intakes don't have baffles mufflers do

swaybar bushings are important and cheap its the links that will get ya...

plastic has a baffling effect unto itself. it flexes and doesn't vibrate much, especially doesn't make noise when it vibrates. with a metal intake, a lot of the noise actually comes backwards from the manifold, and resonates through the intake piping, which won't be heard with a plastic intake.
 
Everything is just thought right now. So if i were to do a rear sway bar from BAT would/should i replace the Rear Sway Bar Link/Shackle?

Added: I just went out to my car, got under it and pull on anything(sway bars, control arms and tie rods, but no the break hoses) that connected the wheels to my car. All of it was solid as a rock. they moved slightly when pulled on but they didn't jiggle or anything of the sort
 
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plastic has a baffling effect unto itself. it flexes and doesn't vibrate much, especially doesn't make noise when it vibrates. with a metal intake, a lot of the noise actually comes backwards from the manifold, and resonates through the intake piping, which won't be heard with a plastic intake.

my god that does make sense...but why would you what a plastic intake when you can get shiny metal....i mean come on, shiny is good

btw...replacing your water pump before it fails is the best mod ever...i wish i did it
 
That is a new one to here. Ill check to see how expensive they are.

added: todras was talking about the sawr bar bushing and end links. what about a new sway bay(21mm from bat) and/or a rstb?
 
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alright, looks like ill be saven my pennies for one. From what ive heard and read, the rear one will help you handling and the front one does almost nothing. Why is that?
 
i wouldn't be able to get enough for mine, man i would love your car though.
 
no offense sjsmk1 but there is no way you have 215BHP out of a zetec with just bolt ons. i love the car but i dont think your gonna get $4500 out of a 96 zetec. even with all the work youve put into it.

you would have to have atleast 180WHP to get those numbers. show me a dyno graph and then ill believe it. my car with a custom exhaust, custom intake, focus UDP, and adjustable FPR only made 125WHP. the cam gears might net you 10 WHP and the same with SAFC (maybe 20) so your looking at most 155WHP which is only 180BHP. not trying to **** on your ad as i love the car but the claim of 215BHP doesnt seem right.
 
no offense sjsmk1 but there is no way you have 215BHP out of a zetec with just bolt ons. i love the car but i dont think your gonna get $4500 out of a 96 zetec. even with all the work youve put into it.


Don't listen to him. Someone is going to pay the price for the car. People have paid MORE. Though I do agree, without a dyno or something to back up those HP claims, no one is going to believe it.
 
Actually figuring an average 25% drivetrain loss, the 168hp dyno slip that i have accounts for slightly more than my claim. Granted the 25% loss is a bit optimstic, and it may have been more straightforward had i posted the whp, consequently most people do not know the relationship and would assume it was the same as bhp. Even if you wanna figure on the really efficient, 15-20% drive train loss, its pretty close.
 
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