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Pwntbywombat 3L Build Thread

How does this thread confuse you? Its under 3L Duratec, we are all discussing a 3L build/swap...but whatever. I put drop cloths down while the motor wasnt assembled. Not to mention the oil pan was installed before the motor came into the house...the carpet is fine smart ass. Why build it inside? hmmm let think, if you torque something to say 22nm at 0 degrees F, then bring it in the house let it warm up to 72 degrees F, you will have play in the bolt. Its basic science people, when things are cold, they contract. But enough with that crap, no the car isnt in the bedroom...that just wouldnt make sense! Its in the driveway! lol.
 
:laugh:The build doesn't confuse me, the process does! :laugh:

I do wish you good luck. Just because it's different, doesn't mean I don't support it. Keep up the work!
 
Ok, so i havent been on in a a few months...whats with the neco look? anyways, havent really had time to do anything on the swap, although it is fully assembled. But i hit another snag, the PS pump doesnt line up with all the other pulleys...:( im guessing i need a pump off a 3L? If so, someone got one to spare? Also, i am in need of a coolent bypass or so im told. It is the aluminum piece that connects the two heads together, sensors do not need to be included. Please and thanks for the help guys!
 
I'm pretty sure we used the PS pump from the 2.5L. I think you have to since you're using the timing cover and power steering pump plate from the 2.5L.

How far is it off from lining up? Double check the way it's mounted up and make sure you didn't bolt something together wrong. If you didn't take any pictures of your 2.5L before disassembly, try searching for pictures of 2.5L's and 3.0L's (port-matched) to see if anything looks different.

I've got a coolant bypass tube from the 3.0L (plastic), but not the aluminum 2.5L tube. Maybe someone that did a full 3.0L swap will sell or give you one.
 
pwntbywombat said:
it sticks out maybe a 1/4 inch too far.
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sounds like you installed it incorrectly, it should mount up exactly the same as the 2.5. I mean you are using a motor mount from a 2.5 and a timing cover from the 2.5, and those are the things it bolts to.
 
So...I go to put my engine in my car...me and my friend Brandon go to put the engine and transmission together...going together ok...no problems, not even pulling it in by the bolts. Maybe i just have bad luck, but check this sh*t out. Someone care to elaborate how everything is going fine and BAM!
0322090357.jpg


Im at a loss of words...we pull the tranny back off. Make sure everything is lined up. BAM! It happens again...and again. Keep in mind we ARENT pulling it in by the bolts, and we aren't amateurs. We played this game on a 69 Z28 with a Muntcie with no problems, just an FYI, the Muntcie has an aluminum bellhousing (no problems there of course cause its not mine)...Someone please explain to me why Ford decided to make this engine out of what appears to be balsa wood?
0322090359.jpg


Keep in mind, we are being cautious after this, after BACKING A BOLT OFF...this is what happens. We were put a bolt onto the bellhousing from the tranny, trying it a different way just for sh*ts and giggles. of course...because ford decided aluminum was a good building material. No where NEAR the oil pan... and BAM!
0322090402.jpg


If anyone can elaborate why this POS aluminum block, and god knows why the pan broke, I would love to know. We weren't even torquing the god da*n bolts! With a feather turn...BAM! Not even trying. Just lining it up! SOMEONE PLEASE TELL ME WHY THE HELL I HAVE TO BUY A NEW PAN AND BELLHOUSING NOW WHEN I HAVE 2 ASE CERTIFIED MECHANICS HELPING ME!? Not to mention all these broken pieces in my garage?
0322090405.jpg
 
Yeah, fuz...seriously...all i can think is whoa. We took it off and on 5 or 6 times to make sure NOTHING was blocking it or in the way...it went on so easy....but that last 2 cm...BAM! On the muntcie, thats when you had to go push the clutch in to relieve the pressure on the plate and throwout. But this is hydraulic, i can push it in with my pinky. Any thoughts? well, other than the aforementioned whoa. haha
 
pwntbywombat said:
its there...but it doesnt make any sense as to why that would cause the tranny not to bolt up? not to mention, how does one remove that!?
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cause it is sticking out, and the input shaft on your transmission crashes into it. you must have been using the bolts to pull it in, cause there is no way the tranny would have mounted flush against the block with that there, and the only way you could have broke things is by pulling it in with the bolts.


the options are cut it and grind it flush, or pull it out. you can try the hydraulic method, pack it full of grease and find a dowel that fits perfectly in it and whack it with a hammer, messy but works. other option is the way i did it, which was to grind a notch in it, and use a slide hammer, popped right out.
 
Bets on how long it runs once its back in?

Gl man, you should have done some more research beforehand.
 
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