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Pwntbywombat 3L Build Thread

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pwntbywombat

CEG'er
Joined
Jul 8, 2008
Messages
253
Location
Cranberry Twp, PA
So the 2.5 decided to die. So, i decided to try a 3L. I'm not sure what happened to the 2.5, but it doesn't start. Doesn't turn over. In my opinion, just an excuse to get a 3L. I ordered one from LQK, it arrived today. So here we go! I'm going with a port matched set up with SVT cams. So here goes.

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01 Duratec. 77k miles. 210 bucks from LKQ.

First comes first, Let get rid of those pesky plastic intake, LIM, Fuel rail, and valve covers (They are the easily painted plastic ones. W00T). :)
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Only on a ford would protect you from yourself when you are taking off your valve covers, of course im talking about these down syndrome rubber stoppers that don't allow the bolts to fall out of the cover.
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What motor swap would be complete without the retarded friend helping you who also just happens to own a ford. haha
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Since I don't have a flywheel, my friend decided to shove a socket extension between the water pump pulley on the end of the cam and the plug well. It ended up working though, with no damage to the cam surprisingly.
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And the kick...
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Knocked it loose without a problem. But we hit a snag, without a flywheel to brace the engine, we can't knock the balancer loose, so we are SOL for tonight. Anyone care to donate a flywheel to the cause? Once i get the harmonic balancer off, it will be time to swap the timing components.
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If you are going to port the heads you should do that before taking all that other stuff off.

At this stage, pull the cams so that all the valves are held closed by the valve springs. Re-install the 3L valve covers to keep crap out of that part of the head. Securely plug any other openings in the engine. If possible port with the motor on an engine stand at as steep of an angle as you can so that most debris falls away from the motor rather than into the ports (even though they are plugged).

Plug up those intake ports really really well with one piece (or more, if you see fit) of shop towel/paper towel per valve and then pile heavy grease on top of that to catch any aluminum dust/shavings. The grease layer should be as thick as you can make it. I smashed the paper towel in their really well before adding the grease and it was probably close to 3/4 - 1 inch deep. When the porting was finished I rotated the motor completely upside down and was laying on my back when I scooped the grease out and removed the paper towel from the intake ports. Don't want any of that mess in the cylinders.

Only after you are done grinding on the intake ports and they are all cleaned up would I start to take more things apart.

I guess you could get the crank pulley off, but I wouldn't disturb the timing cover or oil pan until the porting is finished.

Also, beware of using that extension method...those thin aluminum walls of the head could be broken off with that kind of force exerted on them. That would really suck.

Oh yeah, good luck and have fun.
 
Use an impact to get the crank pulley bolt out. Otherwise, find bolts that will fit into the fly wheel holes and wedge a bar between the bolts.
 
SHOgoFast said:
If you are going to port the heads you should do that before taking all that other stuff off.
Click to expand...

^ That is the first thing I saw too! :nonono: - you should have done the porting right away while the motor was still sealed up. You can do it this way, but why get the metal shavings and crap all over the new parts. Oh, well - live and learn. Good luck with the build.
 
If you weren't so far away, I'd help ya out with it. It's a blast putting it together. The results is worth the blood, sweat, and tears.
 
Well, I figured that I am going to replace the head gasket anyways, so i have to pull the heads. Why not just port them when they are off the motor? Seems logical to me. haha, any thoughts?
 
When you remove the timing cover you can release the timing chain tensioners. When that is done the chains should be loose enough to remove them easily from the cam gears.

Also, I did not know you were pulling the heads to do the porting. If so, disregard most of my other post.
 
Yeah, I have a day off from work, so I've been messing with it all day. I got the cams out no problem. Now i just have to wait for a damn flywheel so i can break the balancer loose.
 
pwntbywombat said:
Yeah, I have a day off from work, so I've been messing with it all day. I got the cams out no problem. Now i just have to wait for a damn flywheel so i can break the balancer loose.
Click to expand...

or you can try this as was suggested before

Blackcoog said:
Use an impact to get the crank pulley bolt out. Otherwise, find bolts that will fit into the fly wheel holes and wedge a bar between the bolts.
Click to expand...
 
I used a vice grip on the opposite end of the motor to keep the crank from turning. Then I put a box wrench on the pully bolt and hit it with a hammer with medium taps to act like an impact. Or just use an impact gun.
 
I know this has been covered many times before, but the cams i just pulled out of the 2.5 have both RFF and DAMB markings, what makes these cams not compatible with nonVVT DAMB heads?

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Since i am impatient and i dont feel like waiting for Dan(the creepy guy in the picture) to get off work, lets start porting!

Bugzuki plates installed.
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Valve covers back on, everything sealed up and ready to go. Thanks for the tip about using grease to catch the aluminum shrapnel!
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Time to play machine shop!
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Oh, :censored::censored::censored::censored:! - You should get grease in those other ports because shavings are flying over there too :blackeye:. You can still damage something. I respect the enthusiasm, but take the time to do it correctly. Some other nEwBe 3L porter might be looking at your pic, so do it correctly at least for them.
 
Well even if some shavings did get in the combustion chamber, its not like it would grenade it right?
 
Well, I'm pulling the heads anyway to do the head gasket, so ill know if anything fell in there. Even though i removed the cams so that all the valves would be closed, like SHOgofast said to. And i highly doubt a little bit of aluminum shaving will cause the motor to grenade it out.
 
pwntbywombat said:
And i highly doubt a little bit of aluminum shavings will cause the motor to grenade it out.
Click to expand...

No, they will just melt ontop of your pistons, therefore raising compression. :D

On a serious note, if you missed some aluminum shavings, your really worry is that they could melt to the head keeping a valve/s from fully seating. Then your in trouble. After all is said and done, tip that motor upside down on the stand and pop all the valves. That should blow any left over shavings out. I would also recommend spraying a small puddle of seafoam covering each valve while the cams are out and all valves are closed... then applying air pressure to each combustion chamber. If you see or hear air bubbles, you've got the valve hung on some shavings... if not, you are in the clear.


Jeff
 
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