FIND
Addicted CEG'er
as much as he has hacked up so far, it would probably be harder for him to go back to a 2.5
did you prime the engine with oil the last time? I think DemonSVT says to have the gas pedel down all the way when you start the car....It kills the injectors so it doesn't start but builds up oil to where you don't have a completly dry start.with no damned car I can make no money, besides little side jobs.
that crap wont pay a 1200 dollar a month mortgage, pay the bills, and keep food in the fridge.
this house is a curse anyways, ac went out the first year I lived here, then the air handler went out, the ac panel is going bad and needs to be replaced and it keeps killing fluorescent fixtures, the plumbing is a rigged up nightmare, the roof is going on it, and the foundation is going to crap on one corner. the house is leaning towards the chimney and is all out of square.
the issue isn't the foreclosure, so much as the timing of it. I needed the car to have worked about two months ago so I could be saving first and security.
I literally already have a $13/hr job that a friend works for that has agreed to hire me, as soon as I have reliable transportation because it involves a good bit of driving to different locations.
just need the car to work, '04 taurus engine with 40K, guaranteed, passed compression test. gets here today (supposed too). Ran me 300 bucks delivered.
this swap shouldn't take nearly as long, all the custom work has already been done. I think I'll just weld the egr where I have the coupler, that should work out much better.
how long do you think the first oil change should be in for? left the last one in for a few hundred miles and then changed it. that engine failed though, so maybe sooner? think I should give any engine flush type product a try? get the dirt out of it?
just need the car to work, '04 taurus engine with 40K, guaranteed, passed compression test. gets here today (supposed too). Ran me 300 bucks delivered.
this swap shouldn't take nearly as long, all the custom work has already been done. I think I'll just weld the egr where I have the coupler, that should work out much better.
how long do you think the first oil change should be in for? left the last one in for a few hundred miles and then changed it. that engine failed though, so maybe sooner? think I should give any engine flush type product a try? get the dirt out of it?
+1Why no just pull the fuses for the fuel pump and the plug on the coil pack when priming the engine. I never felt comfortable with the "mash the gas" method, but both work.
Aight then, anyone feel like telling me which fuse to pull since I'm too stoopids to search for it?
FUSES
ENGINE COMPARTMENT FUSE BOX
Fuse # - Amp - Color - Circuit
1 - 80 - Black - Main power
2 - 60 - Yellow - Engine cooling fan
3 - 60 - Yellow - ABS braking system, Heater blower motor
4 - 20 - Yellow - Daytime running lights
5 - 15 - Light Blue - Fog lamp
6 - Not used
7 - 20 - Yellow - ABS system
8 - Not used
9 - 20 - Light Blue - ECU
10 - 20 - Light Blue - Ignition switch
11 - 3 - Violet - ECU memory
12 - 15 - Light Blue - Horn, Hazard flasher warning system
13 - 20 - Yellow - Oxygen sensor
14 - 15 - Light Blue - Fuel pump
15 - 10 - Red - Low beam, passenger side
16 - 10 - Red - Low beam, driver's side
17 - 10 - Red - High beam, passenger side
18 - 10 - Red - High beam, driver's side
PASSENGER COMPARTMENT FUSE BOX
Fuse # - Amp - Color - Circuit
19 - Not used
20 - 10 - Black - Wiper motors (circuit breaker)
21 - 40 - Orange - Power windows
22 - 7.5 - Brown - ABS module
23 - 15 - Light Blue - Backup lights
24 - 15 - Light Blue - Brake lights
25 - 20 - Yellow - Door locks
26 - 7.5 - Brown - Main light
27 - 15 - Light Blue - Cigarette lighter
28 - 30 - Light Green - Electric seats
29 - 30 - Light Green - Rear window defroster
30 - 7.5 - Brown - Engine management system
31 - 7.5 - Brown - Instrument panel illumination
32 - 7.5 - Brown - Radio
33 - 7.5 - Brown - Parking lamps - drivers side
34 - 7.5 - Brown - Interior lights, electric side mirrors, clock
35 - 7.5 - Brown - Parking lights - passenger side
36 - 10 - Red - Air bag
37 - 30 - Light Green - Heater blower motor
38 - Not used
RELAYS
ENGINE COMPARTMENT FUSE BOX
Relay - Circuit
R1 - Daytime running lights
R2 - Radiator fan, high speed
R3 - Air conditioning
R4 - Air conditioning clutch
R5 - Radiator fan, low speed
R6 - Starter solenoid
R7 - Horn
R8 - Fuel pump
R9 - Headlight, low beam
R10 - Headlight, high beam
R11 - ECU module
D1 - Reverse voltage protection
PASSENGER COMPARTMENT FUSE B0X
Relay - Circuit
R12 - Interior lighting
R13 - Rear window defroster
R14 - Heater blower motor
R15 - Wiper motor
R16 - Ignition
D2 - Reverse voltage protection
AUXILARY RELAYS (outside of fuse boxes)
Relay - Circuit - Location
R18 - One Touch window switch (driver only) - Drivers door
R20 - Not used
R21 - Not used
R22 - Foglights - Module bracket
R23 - Turn signals - Steering column
R24 - Panic alarm - drivers side, Door lock module bracket
R25 - Panic alarm - passenger side, Door lock module bracket
R26 - Not used
Pull the pan and put rod bearings in it. For the price and added security it could be a life/ego saver. Too many on here have learned the hard way.
I disagree.
he has a better chance to screw something up.
I'm drunk I'm trying to be nice.