Blackcoog
Hard-core CEG'er
I'd pull the pan and pickup for a quick clean. If you see any metal chunks dig into it further but you should be fine.
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New 3.0 arrives tuesday
- Thread starter KAOS_3.0
- Start date
If the engine is good.... You should probably change it after the first few hundred miles, that should be more than enough for any funk or condensation that built up while it was sitting.
Do like Elraido says and prime the engine before you start it. In fact you may want to kill the fuel pump and ignition and then just crank it for 30 seconds just to let everything get well lubed. Then hook everything back up, crank it with the gas pedal (FULLY) depressed for a couple seconds to keep the injectors killed before you start it.
If you are dead set on keeping your EGR.... no idea why, then yeah, weld it or whatever you want to do. Or buy the EGR delete kit, and save yourself a bunch of trouble.
30 seconds isnt enough time to get pressure, especially if it has been sitting for a while. On mine (although I did change rod bearings and cams) it took about 2 minutes worth of cranking before my gauge showed pressure (i did 20 seconds at a time, let cool for 5 min or so). Just remember, when using the starter to crank, dont run it for more than 20-30 seconds at a time and give it a while to cool down between cranks or you will toast the starter.
FIND
Addicted CEG'er
30 seconds isnt enough time to get pressure, especially if it has been sitting for a while. On mine (although I did change rod bearings and cams) it took about 2 minutes worth of cranking before my gauge showed pressure (i did 20 seconds at a time, let cool for 5 min or so). Just remember, when using the starter to crank, dont run it for more than 20-30 seconds at a time and give it a while to cool down between cranks or you will toast the starter.
Doesn't need oil pressure, just needs to get some oil up to the top and onto the crank so it doesn't start running completely dry.
Doesn't need oil pressure, just needs to get some oil up to the top and onto the crank so it doesn't start running completely dry.
yeah and how do you know you have it up at the top after 30 seconds? thats why i waited to have pressure. I have heard ones that got 30 seconds of cranking start up with some ticking, mine didnt. You may not need 2 minutes worth, but what is the negatives to cranking it more? it can only help, right?
FIND
Addicted CEG'er
yeah and how do you know you have it up at the top after 30 seconds? thats why i waited to have pressure. I have heard ones that got 30 seconds of cranking start up with some ticking, mine didnt. You may not need 2 minutes worth, but what is the negatives to cranking it more? it can only help, right?
not really any negatives, I was just saying that after 30 seconds he should be starting to get some oil moving. I just don't want him to crank it a bunch then complain his battery is dead so he still cant start his car. No real negatives aside from the fact that it is draining your battery and hard on the starter.
not really any negatives, I was just saying that after 30 seconds he should be starting to get some oil moving. I just don't want him to crank it a bunch then complain his battery is dead so he still cant start his car. No real negatives aside from the fact that it is draining your battery and hard on the starter.
this is true, but i had a battery charger hooked up and gave it a long time to cool so it really isnt that bad on the starter. Besides, battery/starter is cheap in comparison to another 3L.
I had the feeling if you told him to crank it for 30 seconds he would do 20 anyways...
FIND
Addicted CEG'er
this is true, but i had a battery charger hooked up and gave it a long time to cool so it really isnt that bad on the starter. Besides, battery/starter is cheap in comparison to another 3L.
I had the feeling if you told him to crank it for 30 seconds he would do 20 anyways...
Yeah but if you tell him not to crank more than 30 seconds at a time he would crank it for 4 minutes with the battery charger hooked up to the EGR and tell us he got bad advice on FCO
Tex
Hard-core CEG'er
Besides, battery/starter is cheap in comparison to another 3L.
I was bored at Sam's Club (where my last battery came from) the other day and our 42R? battery was up to like $80! I swear that it was about $50 when I bought one two years ago!
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
take the spark plugs out while you crank for oil pressure. It will put less strain on the battery, starter and the engine bearings. You could put a squirt of oil in the bores to be sure they don't score ...G.
yeah, did that with the last one, didn't help since my ignition was firing two pots........
funinND said:Yeah but if you tell him not to crank more than 30 seconds at a time he would crank it for 4 minutes with the battery charger hooked up to the EGR and tell us he got bad advice on FCO
Oh, thats cute, but you've been a bit of help though so I won't pee on your tires...
turbo_fox said:yeah and how do you know you have it up at the top after 30 seconds? thats why i waited to have pressure. I have heard ones that got 30 seconds of cranking start up with some ticking, mine didnt. You may not need 2 minutes worth, but what is the negatives to cranking it more? it can only help, right?
I'm going to second that, when the car isn't doing anything I keep it on a 6amp 12v charger to make sure the battery doesn't die. shouldnt be a problem...
so in the end here, looks like you want me to pull the plugs, keep the battery charged, and crank it for like a minute or so with the pedal on the floor?
if I may ask, those who want me to inspect the bottom end, and those who dont, could I get some success rates on your builds?
been here for a while, but dont really know who's stuff has needed to be rebuilt or not...
so in the end here, looks like you want me to pull the plugs, keep the battery charged, and crank it for like a minute or so with the pedal on the floor?
just disconnect the coil and use a starting button. then there is no need to use the key or hold the gas pedal to the floor.
FIND
Addicted CEG'er
Oh, thats cute, but you've been a bit of help though so I won't pee on your tires...
I cant be all helpful, I gotta give you some crap.
I'm going to second that, when the car isn't doing anything I keep it on a 60amp 12v charger to make sure the battery doesn't die. shouldnt be a problem...
so in the end here, looks like you want me to unplug the coil, keep the battery charged, and crank it for like a minute or so(stopping for a moment after every 30 seconds) with the fuel pump shut off?
if I may ask, those who want me to inspect the bottom end, and those who dont, could I get some success rates on your builds?
been here for a while, but dont really know who's stuff has needed to be rebuilt or not...
I made some changes above in bold. Although you dont necessarily need to keep it on the battery charger. A minute of cranking in warm weather isnt going to kill a decent battery. As for the starter, even if you pull the plugs out, you can still burn it out by cranking it over to long. It is not designed for prolonged use.
As far as JY engines go..... 100% success rate
for ford escorts
I have used 1 JY 1.9L
1 imported JY 1.8 turbo
1 imported JY 2.5L
For Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable
1 JY 3.0 DOHC out of a 99
2 JY 3.0 OHV in first gen tauruses
For 1977 chevy C10 pickup
1 JY 454
For 1985 ford ranger
1 JY 2.3L-- sold said engine 6 months later and bought
1 JY 2.3L turbo
For a 1995 pontiac grand prix
1 JY 3100
Although I always open and inspect the engines for obvious signs of trouble, ie lots of sludge, metal shavings or fragments, "loose" parts. That means pop off pans and valve covers, then put in fresh oil. Also, when you do get around to priming your engine. If you fill the filter with oil, you will get oil pressure faster.
yeah, did that with the last one, didn't help since my ignition was firing two pots........
Oh, thats cute, but you've been a bit of help though so I won't pee on your tires...
I'm going to second that, when the car isn't doing anything I keep it on a 6amp 12v charger to make sure the battery doesn't die. shouldnt be a problem...
so in the end here, looks like you want me to pull the plugs, keep the battery charged, and crank it for like a minute or so with the pedal on the floor?
if I may ask, those who want me to inspect the bottom end, and those who dont, could I get some success rates on your builds?
been here for a while, but dont really know who's stuff has needed to be rebuilt or not...
disconnect the fuel pump relay, not the pedal to the floor method.
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
just disconnect the coil and use a starting button. then there is no need to use the key or hold the gas pedal to the floor.
that'd be pretty cool, if I had one...
FunInNorthDakota said:I cant be all helpful, I gotta give you some crap.
Although I always open and inspect the engines for obvious signs of trouble, ie lots of sludge, metal shavings or fragments, "loose" parts. That means pop off pans and valve covers, then put in fresh oil. Also, when you do get around to priming your engine. If you fill the filter with oil, you will get oil pressure faster.
so Basically, for the cost of an oil pan gasket, I should go ahead and take a look inside the bottom end? obviously the valve cover have to come off though...
W00t on the turbo ranger though man, I almost built one of those
turbo_fox said:disconnect the fuel pump relay, not the pedal to the floor method.
roger than boss
that'd be pretty cool, if I had one...
so Basically, for the cost of an oil pan gasket, I should go ahead and take a look inside the bottom end? obviously the valve cover have to come off though...
W00t on the turbo ranger though man, I almost built one of those
roger than boss
you don't need a starter button to do it .....
the newer 3L engines has the oil pan gasket built into the pan, it doesn't get changed ...
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
so this 04 I have has an O ring type oil pan gasket?
and are you saying I should put a jumper wire on the starter?
and are you saying I should put a jumper wire on the starter?
FIND
Addicted CEG'er
so this 04 I have has an O ring type oil pan gasket?
and are you saying I should put a jumper wire on the starter?
Jumper wire + momentary switch = starter button.
You can use the key if you just disconnect the fuel pump and coil. He told you to use a starter button at first I suspect to give you a less complicated means to complete this project, what he is trying to tell you is that it is not necessary either, if you don't have one, use the key.
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
ah, thanks for clearing that up guys. the 04 is all stripped down now, been procrastinating on getting the 2.5 out though, just because if something happens and I need to move the car, I sort of still can....
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
oh, forgot to ask, will the evap line from the taurus work on the contour?
I burned a hole in the contour one and it has tape on it. it works fine, but looks janky if you really look down in there.
also, the coolant pipe between the heads is different on the 04, can I use it? or do I have to swap on the other one? I ask because I've seen them break and leave a disaster to remove from the front head.
and last but not least, I'm using the 02 valve coves and intakes to save time, so it looks like I have to get that black box out from the middle of the 02 and put were that filler plate is on the 04 for the pcv? is that very hard?
any other little nuances like that I need to know between the 04 and the 02?
thanks guys
I burned a hole in the contour one and it has tape on it. it works fine, but looks janky if you really look down in there.
also, the coolant pipe between the heads is different on the 04, can I use it? or do I have to swap on the other one? I ask because I've seen them break and leave a disaster to remove from the front head.
and last but not least, I'm using the 02 valve coves and intakes to save time, so it looks like I have to get that black box out from the middle of the 02 and put were that filler plate is on the 04 for the pcv? is that very hard?
any other little nuances like that I need to know between the 04 and the 02?
thanks guys