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Is a K&N RU-3530 + heatshield really better than a dropin K&N filter + SVT heatshield

They are both plastic, the svt one is made from abs plastic? Which is what i would think the SE is made out of.


I looked at my svt one last night. its kinda plastic, its somewhat flexable. where as I recall the Se one being hard plastic when I removed it.
 
Does this really make a difference when the intake maniford is about 150+ degrees at operating temp? It's probably a negligible difference between the baffled open air element and the high flow drop in in terms of temp -once it reaches the end of the manifold.


not sure if this answers your question but I datalogged the IAC sensor and compared my KKM with and w/o a heat shield.

http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showpost.php?p=483000&postcount=32

anytime you can get cooler air into the engine the better it is. I know on my turbo car over the summer in ~90 degree heat with the intercooler I had Iats that where right around 100 degrees. On a 70 degree day the iac reported about the same temp. car performs better when it gets cold air.
 
^ interesting

Velocity of the air must be more important than the immediate heat transfer in the manifold.

kinda makes me want to learn physics -NOT!
 
what i would like to see is a chambered carbon fiber intake like the "whale cock" intake for integras. a really wide plenum coming into the engine bay and a 2 1/2" tube going into the fender, with a filter right on the side, long and narrow cone so it would fit, but stay high in the fender. i'll show you guys what i'm going to do with an intake once i can finally get the stock plastic pieces.
 
what i would like to see is a chambered carbon fiber intake like the "whale cock" intake for integras. a really wide plenum coming into the engine bay and a 2 1/2" tube going into the fender, with a filter right on the side, long and narrow cone so it would fit, but stay high in the fender. i'll show you guys what i'm going to do with an intake once i can finally get the stock plastic pieces.

I know what your talking about, kinda like the the foxbody mustangs fender intake system.

I loved that intake :drool:
 
one idea PHENOLIC spacer! I have one on my 86 GT. it sandwiches between the UIM/LIM not a good conductor of heat so the upper intake was cooler that the rest of the engine.
 
one idea PHENOLIC spacer! I have one on my 86 GT. it sandwiches between the UIM/LIM not a good conductor of heat so the upper intake was cooler that the rest of the engine.

I can't imagine something like this making that much of a difference. There is conduction and convection going on here at the same time. ;) It might be a few degrees cooler where the UIM mates with the spacer, but the underhood temps make the UIM hot for the most part.
 
only if you over oil the filter, otherwise it isn't a problem ....

ugh oh......you just started a whole mess of problems....doyel where are you :laugh:

I'm right here!

And you can kill a MAF with a K&N out of the box without ever adding oil. I've seen it happen to my dad's 3.0 Ranger and also to the BMW M3 that I used to co-own. Both times K&N stopped replying to our emails for help and advice the second we hinted at it being their fault and not ours. The BMW was bad enough that it left red grit in the intake tube that stayed on your finger.
 
I'm right here!

And you can kill a MAF with a K&N out of the box without ever adding oil. I've seen it happen to my dad's 3.0 Ranger and also to the BMW M3 that I used to co-own. Both times K&N stopped replying to our emails for help and advice the second we hinted at it being their fault and not ours. The BMW was bad enough that it left red grit in the intake tube that stayed on your finger.

K&N filters kill all your cars! Its true, this is a story of two cars possibly being damaged by a filter whereas there are hundreds of thousands of them sold.

I have one on my SVT and i like it. I have dry drop in filter on my protege and like that as well.
 
Hundreds of thousands have been sold but you'll find hundreds of similar stories. When CFC brought out their MAF contact cleaner with cleaning off filter oil in mind it should have opened more eyes. When filter oil shows up in your used oil analysis along with higher dirt levels you know something isnt right.
 
Different strokes for different folks, everybody has their own opinion, experiences and reasons.

For me I have been using K&N's on all my different fuel injected vehicles the past 15 years; '95 Acura Integra, '02 Honda Accord, '01 Daewoo Lanos, '04 Mazdaspeed Miata turbo, '06 Toyota Hi-Lux turbo diesel, '00 Merc Cougar Duratec and '99 Ford CSVT

All combined about 400,000 miles of driving without even a hint of a problem. I have even severely over-oiled my filters on more than one occasion.

For me empirical data is key. Just happened to come across this the other day.
http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/massair.htm
click on "Can Oil Come Off our Filters" if you want to watch only one as it is the most informative.

Of course it is K&N data so many will choose not believe but scientifically there are no flaws I can find in their logic and tests.
 
K&N also states power gains that cant be replicated and filtering data that isnt backed up by repeat tests. Take everything with a grain of salt until you see some actual back to back data.
 
K&N also states power gains that cant be replicated and filtering data that isnt backed up by repeat tests. Take everything with a grain of salt until you see some actual back to back data.

+1
Any HP or MPG gains (if any) are very minimal. Only reason I go K&N is for the buy it one time re-useability factor and I like the added intake sound.
 
Then you'd love a dry media filter like an AFE or AEM. You dont need the extra cleaning kits that can get messy and they actually filter like the stock filter does.
 
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