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brake brackets: FSVT/SVT conversion kit

brake brackets: FSVT/SVT conversion kit

  • Yes! I want both front and rear conversion kits to 300/280mm

    Votes: 33 51.6%

  • Yes, but I'm only interested in the front FSVT 300mm kit

    Votes: 8 12.5%

  • Yes, but I'm only interested in the rear SVT 280mm kit

    Votes: 12 18.8%

  • Interested but I can't do the work myself

    Votes: 5 7.8%

  • Interested but I won't buy because it looks too difficult

    Votes: 6 9.4%
  • Total voters
    64
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I plan on using the CSVT fronts in the rears and FSVT fronts in the front. I am just trying to find a place where I can get FSVT slotted fronts because my CSVT front rotors are slotted and I would like to keep them.
 
Same here. Already have CSVT slotted, so I want the new rotors in front to match.

PowerSlot FSVT rotors [P/N 8171PSL & 8171PSR] are going for $93.16 each. PowerStop rotors are only $60.21 each.
 
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Hi Warmonger do you still have the brake brackets i was suppose to buy from you on this group buy as I now have some money to spend again :D
 
warmonger said:
I was thinking you guys should seriously still use the CSVT front rotors on the rear and just turn them down thin to minimize grinding.
Click to expand...

This is what I'm planning on doing. I bought (hopefully, paid 3 weeks ago but still havent' seen the parts) the kit from Y2KSVT with FSVT rotors. The stock CSVT rear rotors are approx. 20.2mm thick new with wall thicknesses (thicknesses of each sides of the disc not counting the venting space) of about 6.1mm. The front CSVT rotors have a min. thickness of 22.2mm with the corresponding wall thicknesses of about 7.3mm. If 1mm were turned from each side, then I would end up with 20.2mm and wall thicknesses of 6.3mm. It would be just about exact what a new rear CSVT rotor would be.

Henry
 
You may find reluctance to machine the rotor under minimum thickness. If you do it yourself that may not come up, but many technicians or machinists are concerned about possible liabilities.
 
Something you may find useful is that it may be faster to remove metal from the hub flange instead of enlarging the inside of the "hat" on the front CSVT rotors in preparing for the rear install.

I helped Blackfoot on Saturday with preparation for the rear. We ran out of time before enlarging the stock rear brackets to accept the fatter rear rotors. That's how we did his. We used a drum sander. While turning the hub by hand the drum sander was used to sand down the hub outer diameter. It worked great.
 
Big Jim said:
You may find reluctance to machine the rotor under minimum thickness. If you do it yourself that may not come up, but many technicians or machinists are concerned about possible liabilities.
Click to expand...

You're probably right Jim. I've got a friend who owns a brake shop so I'm hoping he can take car of it for me.
 
Big Jim said:
Something you may find useful is that it may be faster to remove metal from the hub flange instead of enlarging the inside of the "hat" on the front CSVT rotors in preparing for the rear install.

I helped Blackfoot on Saturday with preparation for the rear. We ran out of time before enlarging the stock rear brackets to accept the fatter rear rotors. That's how we did his. We used a drum sander. While turning the hub by hand the drum sander was used to sand down the hub outer diameter. It worked great.
Click to expand...

It did work great, just be sure and wear gloves. Especially if you're as coordinated as I am. I now have no fingerprint.
 
hanknum said:
This is what I'm planning on doing. I bought (hopefully, paid 3 weeks ago but still havent' seen the parts) the kit from Y2KSVT with FSVT rotors. The stock CSVT rear rotors are approx. 20.2mm thick new with wall thicknesses (thicknesses of each sides of the disc not counting the venting space) of about 6.1mm. The front CSVT rotors have a min. thickness of 22.2mm with the corresponding wall thicknesses of about 7.3mm. If 1mm were turned from each side, then I would end up with 20.2mm and wall thicknesses of 6.3mm. It would be just about exact what a new rear CSVT rotor would be.

Henry
Click to expand...

Thats some good info... So basically if you have the rotor turned all the way down to 20.2mm It will fit like a brand new CSVT Rear rotor? Won't have to shave any off your pads or brackets? Then you would only need to grind down the hat of either the rotor or the hub that it seats on correct? If so that would simplify installation as long as you have a friend that can turn rotors ;)
 
Needmorespeed said:
yes please :) I was just wondering what all this stuff about getting the rotors made thinner is about. As i'm in the UK it's harder to find people willing to do that kind of work. :)
Click to expand...


Please ready the links to the first group buy.
In fact, it seems that I may as well repost the first page so everyone can understand everything and instructions, warnings and cautions.

warmonger said:
Initial pricing will be set today after a final talk with the machinist. The price will include everything below plus shipping, packaging and insurance.

Here are my approximations so you can decide:
Tentatively the Front kit will sell for $160
Tentatively the rear kit will sell for $150
Purchasing of both kits will allow a small discount due to combined shipping and such. Tentatively the Front+Rear $295


Okay, most of you are aware already but for those that are not:

There are actually two kits here. Front and rear.

The front kit is for brackets that allow 300mm Focus SVT rotors to bolt up to the stock Contour SVT and Most Cougar brake bracketry and calipers.

The rear kit allows you to use the Contour SVT and Cougar 278mm front rotor and install it on the back of the car, after some modifications.

Front kit includes:
2 - brackets made from 1/2" plate steel
4 - special spacers made from 300 stainless
4 - bolt studs
4 - nuts
4 - washers
4 - 12mm bolts

*All bolts and washers are hardened grade 10.9 or better.

Rear Kit includes
2 - brackets made from 3/8" plate steel
4 - spacers made from 300 stainless
4 - 10mm bolts
**4 - washers

**Depending on bolt style supplied with the kit there may be more or less washers provided. JIS flange head bolts will not require a washer**

Notes:
-You can use the same pads that are in your calipers now to save money or buy new pads.
-You should save the front rotors to use on the rear.
****You WILL have to source your own FSVT rotors whether you buy factory Ford or aftermarket. This should be the only added cost****
-The brakes clear all stock SVT 16" wheels. They will clear any FSVT 17" wheel. Some 16" wheels may need to be test fitted first.


Here is a word document with the instruction set. Pictures will be added to the instruction set and sent out with the brakes or via email.
http://www.rumodded.com/warmonger/front.doc
http://www.rumodded.com/warmonger/rear.doc
FAQ

Will it work with the standard contour/mystique brakes?
Yes but it requires the SVT caliper bracket. ALL bigger brake contours/cougars use the same caliper bracket, all smaller brake contours/mystiques use the same smaller bracket and would have to obtain the larger bracket from the junk yard. ANY caliper from the contour/cougar/mystique can be used as long as the appropriate bracket is fitted.

What brake pads can I use?
ANY stock or performance pad used for the stock brakes. Even though you are still using stock pads the greater leverage from the bigger rotor and the heat handling capability of the system will greatly enhance braking ability.

Is this kit just as good as a professional big brake kit like TCE?
NO. The TCE kit is awesome. But you have to pay to play. This kit is an enhancement and will give the same brake performance as the FSVT hardware kit, but with better more stock like pedal feel, but for significantly less $.

Can I get just the front or just the rear kit?
Yes

What if I run into problems during installation?
I'll be available via email, PM, and possibly phone if I like you enough (j/k) to help answer questions. BigJim and DemonSVT are both experienced with the front kit and Ray can answer some questions on the rear kit.

I'm not really skilled at DIY projects. How hard will this be for me?
If you want it done get some help from someone who has some experience. Don't just pay someone to do it, be there with them, attempt the work and get their help.

How safe is the kit?
Let me say that this kit has over 8 months of performance daily driving testing on the fronts and a year of testing on the rears. There has not been one reported problem once the kit was fitted. The hardware is higher grade and as stong as I can make it. The bolts and spacers are all corrosion resistant and grade 10.9 hardness. The plates are overengineered to be extra strong.
However, this is not a DOT tested/approved kit or any of that. Many brake adaptations you can buy are also not DOT tested. Like any aftermarket part you are using it at your own risk. When you buy these parts you agree that you hold yourself responsible for assessing the quality of the parts and the quality of your installation job. If you can't do that then do not buy it.
Click to expand...
 
Redlineracer12 said:
Thats some good info... So basically if you have the rotor turned all the way down to 20.2mm It will fit like a brand new CSVT Rear rotor? Won't have to shave any off your pads or brackets? Then you would only need to grind down the hat of either the rotor or the hub that it seats on correct? If so that would simplify installation as long as you have a friend that can turn rotors ;)
Click to expand...

Theoretically speaking, yes.

I have yet to do the install, but that's what my measurements came out to. I'll let you all know after I install, or if someone else does theirs first, please post.
 
Everyone please be sure to torque your brake hardware to proper specs AFTER you have VERIFIED that there is no part interference! The parts must fit together without stress so that everything clamps down flush and they must be torqued to at least the SAME AS STOCK torque specs, or up to stock+10%.
If you don't know, look up the specs.
 
warmonger said:
Everyone please be sure to torque your brake hardware to proper specs AFTER you have VERIFIED that there is no part interference! The parts must fit together without stress so that everything clamps down flush and they must be torqued to at least the SAME AS STOCK torque specs, or up to stock+10%.
If you don't know, look up the specs.
Click to expand...

Could you please share the torque specs. so I don't have to look them up :)
 
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