posthuman63t
Veteran CEG'er
Part list for 3L Hybrid (3L bottom end and heads, 2.5L timing components, cams, intakes, etc.) (2.5L suggests SVT Parts)
-Since I see posts here and there of people asking what parts they need for what swaps, I decided to post this up regarding the above engine ONLY. I have not done nor investigated the other 2 options (Full 3L, 3L hybrid w/ 3L bottom end, 2.5L heads, cams, etc.) I have completed the above swap and have over 10,000 miles on the engine, so that will justify my parts list. If something is optional, it will be noted. This list is for a complete teardown (minus heads) and rebuild. It will also include extra notes on what needs to be done to complete this swap. I suggest changing out all gaskets and seals while your in there. A few extra dollars now, is better than hundreds later.
Gaskets/Seals:
3L Oil Pan Gasket
2.5L Front Engine Cover Gasket (aka Timing Cover)
-The above will include all 3 gaskets (Left, Right, and Center)
3L Head Gaskets (x2)
2.5L Valve Cover Gaskets
-The above will include both valve cover gaskets with spark plug gaskets
2.5LnCamshaft Gasket
-The above is for the Water Pump driven Cam. It includes 2 gaskets
2.5L Lower Intake Gaskets
2.5L Upper Intake Gaskets
2.5L Throttle Body Gasket (optional – replace if you remove from intake)
2.5L EGR Gasket (optional – replace if you remove)
Bearings/Bolts:
3L Clevite Rod Bearings (x6) (Replace regardless. Make sure you get the right size)
3L Clevite Main Bearings (Optional – Check for scoring or damage)
3L Rod Bolts (These are TTY “Torque To Yield” and can be only used once)
3L Head Bolts (These are TTY, and can only be used once)(Reusable studs available also)
Now, I suggest anyone attempting the swap with little mechanical experience, buys the ford cd from todras or whomever else offers it to you. This cd gives you step by step instructions, with what to do first, where to apply sealants, and most importantly, TORQUE Specs.
Alternator Cut Points:
There are 2 tabs that need to be cut of to allow use of the 2.5 alternator/bracket. When you get to this point, LINE IT UP and you will see what needs to be cut. It’s as plain as day.
Other Cut Points:
The Pilot Bushing on the crank needs to be cut to allow clearance. Also, SOME people may need to cut a tab on the block to allow the SVT Oil cooler to be attatched. On my engine, I didn't need to and managed to route the lines with no crimping. Yours may differ.
Head Intake Ports:
The 2.5L Lower Intake Ports do not line up with the 3L head intake ports. We can not do anything about the intake ports on the intake, but we can modify the 3L head. The easiest way to do this is bring the heads to a shop with the 2.5L lower intake gaskets for sizing up the holes. Porting is not an amateur move, and its not as simple as just cutting the holes to match. The injector positioning changes from the middle of the port to left of center of the port. You have the choice to use a jb weld product (which I am against), welding, or buying a plate sold here on CEG to cover the old injector spot. There are dozens of pictures floating around if you don’t know what I’m talking about.
Oil Pan:
The 2.5L oil pan lacks baffles that the newest version has. Its an optional upgrade but well worth the money. Newer style oil pans have an integrated gasket (you won't need to purchase the gasket). Make sure your pick-up will work with the oil pan you choose. Since the trays are different, the pick-up location may need to be moved.
Camshafts:
There is a lot of argument about which cams are the best to use. In my opinion the difference between the 3L cams and 2.5 svt cams is the 3L cams offer higher torque down low. The 2.5 svt cams offer more power up top and keep pulling up top. Do some research and come up with your own opinion.
Timing gear:
Note that whichever set of cams you use, you MUST USE THE TIMING COMPONENTS THAT GO WITH THEM! This includes the cams, the chains, and the sprockets (x2) that go onto the crank. The Pulse wheel must also be set for the 2.5. There are 2 keyways on it to choose, 2.5, and 3.0.
Now what parts do you use off what engine?
3L parts:
-Block
-Heads
-Pistons
-Rods
-Crankshaft
2.5L Parts
-Camshafts
-Upper and Lower Intakes
-Throttle Body
-MAF
-Wiring harness and sensors
-Motor Mount (located between the heads)
Now I’m sure I missed a bunch of stuff, but for the basics, this will get you started. Remember this is for the the swap mentioned above. I hope it helps collect a little information for those unwilling to search like most of us had to.
-Since I see posts here and there of people asking what parts they need for what swaps, I decided to post this up regarding the above engine ONLY. I have not done nor investigated the other 2 options (Full 3L, 3L hybrid w/ 3L bottom end, 2.5L heads, cams, etc.) I have completed the above swap and have over 10,000 miles on the engine, so that will justify my parts list. If something is optional, it will be noted. This list is for a complete teardown (minus heads) and rebuild. It will also include extra notes on what needs to be done to complete this swap. I suggest changing out all gaskets and seals while your in there. A few extra dollars now, is better than hundreds later.
Gaskets/Seals:
3L Oil Pan Gasket
2.5L Front Engine Cover Gasket (aka Timing Cover)
-The above will include all 3 gaskets (Left, Right, and Center)
3L Head Gaskets (x2)
2.5L Valve Cover Gaskets
-The above will include both valve cover gaskets with spark plug gaskets
2.5LnCamshaft Gasket
-The above is for the Water Pump driven Cam. It includes 2 gaskets
2.5L Lower Intake Gaskets
2.5L Upper Intake Gaskets
2.5L Throttle Body Gasket (optional – replace if you remove from intake)
2.5L EGR Gasket (optional – replace if you remove)
Bearings/Bolts:
3L Clevite Rod Bearings (x6) (Replace regardless. Make sure you get the right size)
3L Clevite Main Bearings (Optional – Check for scoring or damage)
3L Rod Bolts (These are TTY “Torque To Yield” and can be only used once)
3L Head Bolts (These are TTY, and can only be used once)(Reusable studs available also)
Now, I suggest anyone attempting the swap with little mechanical experience, buys the ford cd from todras or whomever else offers it to you. This cd gives you step by step instructions, with what to do first, where to apply sealants, and most importantly, TORQUE Specs.
Alternator Cut Points:
There are 2 tabs that need to be cut of to allow use of the 2.5 alternator/bracket. When you get to this point, LINE IT UP and you will see what needs to be cut. It’s as plain as day.
Other Cut Points:
The Pilot Bushing on the crank needs to be cut to allow clearance. Also, SOME people may need to cut a tab on the block to allow the SVT Oil cooler to be attatched. On my engine, I didn't need to and managed to route the lines with no crimping. Yours may differ.
Head Intake Ports:
The 2.5L Lower Intake Ports do not line up with the 3L head intake ports. We can not do anything about the intake ports on the intake, but we can modify the 3L head. The easiest way to do this is bring the heads to a shop with the 2.5L lower intake gaskets for sizing up the holes. Porting is not an amateur move, and its not as simple as just cutting the holes to match. The injector positioning changes from the middle of the port to left of center of the port. You have the choice to use a jb weld product (which I am against), welding, or buying a plate sold here on CEG to cover the old injector spot. There are dozens of pictures floating around if you don’t know what I’m talking about.
Oil Pan:
The 2.5L oil pan lacks baffles that the newest version has. Its an optional upgrade but well worth the money. Newer style oil pans have an integrated gasket (you won't need to purchase the gasket). Make sure your pick-up will work with the oil pan you choose. Since the trays are different, the pick-up location may need to be moved.
Camshafts:
There is a lot of argument about which cams are the best to use. In my opinion the difference between the 3L cams and 2.5 svt cams is the 3L cams offer higher torque down low. The 2.5 svt cams offer more power up top and keep pulling up top. Do some research and come up with your own opinion.
Timing gear:
Note that whichever set of cams you use, you MUST USE THE TIMING COMPONENTS THAT GO WITH THEM! This includes the cams, the chains, and the sprockets (x2) that go onto the crank. The Pulse wheel must also be set for the 2.5. There are 2 keyways on it to choose, 2.5, and 3.0.
Now what parts do you use off what engine?
3L parts:
-Block
-Heads
-Pistons
-Rods
-Crankshaft
2.5L Parts
-Camshafts
-Upper and Lower Intakes
-Throttle Body
-MAF
-Wiring harness and sensors
-Motor Mount (located between the heads)
Now I’m sure I missed a bunch of stuff, but for the basics, this will get you started. Remember this is for the the swap mentioned above. I hope it helps collect a little information for those unwilling to search like most of us had to.
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