FIND
Addicted CEG'er
as much as he has hacked up so far, it would probably be harder for him to go back to a 2.5
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New 3.0 arrives tuesday
- Thread starter KAOS_3.0
- Start date
FIND
Addicted CEG'er
yeah I can honestly say, a car has never put me on the street. Never would either. I'd say some priorities are a little skewed there.
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
with no damned car I can make no money, besides little side jobs.
that crap wont pay a 1200 dollar a month mortgage, pay the bills, and keep food in the fridge.
this house is a curse anyways, ac went out the first year I lived here, then the air handler went out, the ac panel is going bad and needs to be replaced and it keeps killing fluorescent fixtures, the plumbing is a rigged up nightmare, the roof is going on it, and the foundation is going to crap on one corner. the house is leaning towards the chimney and is all out of square.
the issue isn't the foreclosure, so much as the timing of it. I needed the car to have worked about two months ago so I could be saving first and security.
I literally already have a $13/hr job that a friend works for that has agreed to hire me, as soon as I have reliable transportation because it involves a good bit of driving to different locations.
just need the car to work, '04 taurus engine with 40K, guaranteed, passed compression test. gets here today (supposed too). Ran me 300 bucks delivered.
this swap shouldn't take nearly as long, all the custom work has already been done. I think I'll just weld the egr where I have the coupler, that should work out much better.
how long do you think the first oil change should be in for? left the last one in for a few hundred miles and then changed it. that engine failed though, so maybe sooner? think I should give any engine flush type product a try? get the dirt out of it?
that crap wont pay a 1200 dollar a month mortgage, pay the bills, and keep food in the fridge.
this house is a curse anyways, ac went out the first year I lived here, then the air handler went out, the ac panel is going bad and needs to be replaced and it keeps killing fluorescent fixtures, the plumbing is a rigged up nightmare, the roof is going on it, and the foundation is going to crap on one corner. the house is leaning towards the chimney and is all out of square.
the issue isn't the foreclosure, so much as the timing of it. I needed the car to have worked about two months ago so I could be saving first and security.
I literally already have a $13/hr job that a friend works for that has agreed to hire me, as soon as I have reliable transportation because it involves a good bit of driving to different locations.
just need the car to work, '04 taurus engine with 40K, guaranteed, passed compression test. gets here today (supposed too). Ran me 300 bucks delivered.
this swap shouldn't take nearly as long, all the custom work has already been done. I think I'll just weld the egr where I have the coupler, that should work out much better.
how long do you think the first oil change should be in for? left the last one in for a few hundred miles and then changed it. that engine failed though, so maybe sooner? think I should give any engine flush type product a try? get the dirt out of it?
elraido
I kant speel
did you prime the engine with oil the last time? I think DemonSVT says to have the gas pedel down all the way when you start the car....It kills the injectors so it doesn't start but builds up oil to where you don't have a completly dry start.
FIND
Addicted CEG'er
If the engine is good.... You should probably change it after the first few hundred miles, that should be more than enough for any funk or condensation that built up while it was sitting.
Do like Elraido says and prime the engine before you start it. In fact you may want to kill the fuel pump and ignition and then just crank it for 30 seconds just to let everything get well lubed. Then hook everything back up, crank it with the gas pedal (FULLY) depressed for a couple seconds to keep the injectors killed before you start it.
If you are dead set on keeping your EGR.... no idea why, then yeah, weld it or whatever you want to do. Or buy the EGR delete kit, and save yourself a bunch of trouble.
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
so if I pull the connection to the coil and then fully depress the pedal while I turn it over it will only turn the oil pump and no ignition will happen the and that should do the trick right?
and for the egr it looks like I'm going to find a piece of steel tubing on which the inside diameter is the same as the od on the egr tubes so I can make two welds and be good to go.
I do, by the way, have to pass a standard obdII emissions test here, in a few years I'll have to pass a visual emissions inspection only, but I'm moving back to GA so I'm not sure what level of emissions I might have to pass. one thing is for sure, I know an emissions system turned off in the tune will cause me to fail.
and for the egr it looks like I'm going to find a piece of steel tubing on which the inside diameter is the same as the od on the egr tubes so I can make two welds and be good to go.
I do, by the way, have to pass a standard obdII emissions test here, in a few years I'll have to pass a visual emissions inspection only, but I'm moving back to GA so I'm not sure what level of emissions I might have to pass. one thing is for sure, I know an emissions system turned off in the tune will cause me to fail.
Wien_Sean
Hard-core CEG'er
Why no just pull the fuses for the fuel pump and the plug on the coil pack when priming the engine. I never felt comfortable with the "mash the gas" method, but both work.
FIND
Addicted CEG'er
+1
there isnt any fuel pressure at the fuel rails so you dont have to disable the injectors. Disable the fuel pump in case your TPS switch is faulty so that you dont flood your engine.... like last time.
Mashing the gas to WOT at startup is just for keeping the injectors closed.
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
Aight then, anyone feel like telling me which fuse to pull since I'm too stoopids to search for it?
Wien_Sean
Hard-core CEG'er
You know, it took me all of 30 seconds to find two links by searching on Google, but that is neither here nor there.
I don't recall what year you have, but here are the specs for a 1998 SVT:
Source: http://www.stuff.to/svtspecs.php
Another source is this: http://woodfam.com/ryan/svt/essential_info.html
I printed the second link and put it in my car. It has been a life saver several times.
In the fuse box in the engine bay, pull the following:
14 - 15 - Light Blue - Fuel pump (Fuse)
R8 - Fuel pump (Relay)
There should be a diagram on the bottom side of the box top. Use the numbers above with the diagram and you should be able to figure it out. Don't forget to pull the coil pack plug. Also, if you have a different year you will have to confirm that the numbers are the same between models.
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
Haha, I was kidding, but thanks all the same.
engine got here this morning, guy actually brought two over so I could take my pick. really nice guy, feel pretty confidant on this engine, also I'm sure he'll stand by the warranty even with it going in a different car.
this one has a inventory tag on it listing it as a grade A engine, and giving the vin number.
I got the 04, and for right now I only going to swap the longblock, but eventually I'd like to build a cop harness and swap to the newer intake as well. one good thing is I now have a correct IAC.
right now I'm kind of running through the swap process over and over in my head, trying to streamline it so this thing will get in there quick.
how long does it take one of you guys to swap a longblock on one of these? and how many of you guys think it might be a good idea to look at the bottom end before shoving it in? the oil left in it literally looks brand new....
[edit] oh, also wanted to add, the other engine was like an 02 or something, but it had COP with plastic valve covers that said duratec on them. anyone know what year those came on so I could look around for a set later? I like all the plastic stuff, saves a ton of weight.
engine got here this morning, guy actually brought two over so I could take my pick. really nice guy, feel pretty confidant on this engine, also I'm sure he'll stand by the warranty even with it going in a different car.
this one has a inventory tag on it listing it as a grade A engine, and giving the vin number.
I got the 04, and for right now I only going to swap the longblock, but eventually I'd like to build a cop harness and swap to the newer intake as well. one good thing is I now have a correct IAC.
right now I'm kind of running through the swap process over and over in my head, trying to streamline it so this thing will get in there quick.
how long does it take one of you guys to swap a longblock on one of these? and how many of you guys think it might be a good idea to look at the bottom end before shoving it in? the oil left in it literally looks brand new....
[edit] oh, also wanted to add, the other engine was like an 02 or something, but it had COP with plastic valve covers that said duratec on them. anyone know what year those came on so I could look around for a set later? I like all the plastic stuff, saves a ton of weight.
Beans
Addicted CEG'er
I'm drunk I'm trying to be nice.
Beans
Addicted CEG'er
Ahh, continue.
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
so which is it?
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
put it in
just drop the motor in. the less that is taken apart the less chance its going to get screwed up.
FIND
Addicted CEG'er
like they said. Just put the motor in. You need the car running and dont need to be spending a lot more time messing with it. Plus by the sounds of it you need the money so you don't want to be spending money taking it apart and replacing bearings.
I use junkyard motors all the time in vehicles with no problem.
I use junkyard motors all the time in vehicles with no problem.