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MSDS Installation tomorrow! :)

MARTINI

CEG'er
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Messages
93
Location
Mexico City
Finally I'm ready for the install of the MSDS!!:drool:

I also goto fiber glass tape to reduce some of the heat these will be generating in the engine bay, and will be doing the Y-pipe upgrade.

The gaskets that came with the headers look very cheap, are they good enough or better use OEM gaskets?:confused::help:

I'll keep you posted with pics of all the prcocess
 
Use either Felpro or OEM gaskets. the ones that come with the headers seam to be notorious for leaking and you dont want to have to pull the headers again just to install new gaskets.
 
Advise: 1. Don't wrap the headers. They'll trap moisture and will eat them pretty quickly.

2. Drop the rad. and fans. It will save you in the long run.
 
Use either Felpro or OEM gaskets. the ones that come with the headers seam to be notorious for leaking and you dont want to have to pull the headers again just to install new gaskets.

ok, I'll look for one of those, thanks!

Advise: 1. Don't wrap the headers. They'll trap moisture and will eat them pretty quickly.

2. Drop the rad. and fans. It will save you in the long run.

:eek: Had never heard of that !!
 
yeah the header wrap can trap moisture. but also if you make sure the exhaust is fully warmed up every time the car is driven it shouldn't be an issue.

but with that being said, getting them jet hot coated is another great option.


fyi I painted some of my turbo pipes with high temp primer and paint then wrapped in header wrap and after a year they where fine. however the car is not driven in bad weather unless I get stuck out in the rain.
 
Jet Hot coatings hands down....my car ran much cooler with the headers and ypipe coated. The evo hood helped a ton too.

For the OP if you don't have ratcheting combonation wrenches get a metric set. Demon always stated they help a ton....he was right it would have made life much easier. Also make sure you have 4 feet of extensions that trick works great for the rear bank. Also be prepared to cut the egr tube thats the biggest hurdle i swear.
 
Jet Hot coatings hands down....my car ran much cooler with the headers and ypipe coated. The evo hood helped a ton too.

For the OP if you don't have ratcheting combonation wrenches get a metric set. Demon always stated they help a ton....he was right it would have made life much easier. Also make sure you have 4 feet of extensions that trick works great for the rear bank. Also be prepared to cut the egr tube thats the biggest hurdle i swear.

Buying a set of ratcheting combination wrenches is a little overboard, but, they are handy for the future, cutting the EGR is also going way overboard. The best trick is to soak everything with penetrating oil the day before, or at minimum a couple hours before. I can do headers in under 3 hours and I use only 1 ratchet, 3 combination wrenches (one for the EGR, one for the O2 sensors, and one for that pesky stud on the rear header on top in the middle), 2 long extensions, 1 3" extension, one u-joint, and a deep socket for removing the nuts and studs(most of the time the studs come out with the nuts, sometimes though, you will have to use a seperate socket to remove the studs. for most of the studs in the rear, you can do them with only a couple of the extensions. The hardest on is the one on top all the way to the passenger side. use your 2 long extensions, then put your swivel on, then a short extension before your socket and you will clear the alternator no problem, as well as have the perfect angle to remove that stud. If you are diving into header install I am sure you read other posts about it, but just in case, you need to fish those extensions in from behind the subframe, between it and the body of the car. I wish I could remember the sizes.....

I think the biggest hurdle is when you are removing the stock manifold, if you don't get all the studs out it is really tight. It is harder to get at the studs when the factory manifold is in. Also, have a buddy to help you out with grabbing the plug from the upstream O2 sensor on the rear header, cause it is hard to reach that harness in the first place if you leave the coil in, and it's just a pain trying to get that plug to hang somewhere so you can get back up and reach in and pull it up to plug it in. A ratcheting wrench would come in handy for that stud on the rear I mentioned earlier though, but the egr has never been a problem for me, and I have done 5 header installations so far(3 cougars, 1 contour, and my own contour), and my own I had to do twice because of a leaky gasket. lemme see what else..... Oh yeah, whoever said earlier to remove the radiator and fan.... yeah that really helps, it isnt hard to take them out, and it makes a world of difference. Unless you have little girl hands, you will have a hell of a time getting those studs out with the fan still in there, and with the fan in there you are guaranteed to get real scraped up trying to get in there. trust me, it takes less time to pull the radiator and fan and reinstall them than the time you will be wasting trying to do it with them in.
 
Ummmm so when the egr tube won't break loose after being sprayed daily for a week and heat applied how do you remove it? You cut it off!! That is not overbored! After I did this I took the manifold to work determined to get if off, heat+24" crescent=fail the nut never broke loose. It happens I know others have had similar problems. Also ratcheting combo wrenches are not overbored either. Good for you how long it takes you, haste makes waste remember that. Come upto Wi/midwest and wrench on a car thats been through a few winters and see how quickly "quick" jobs become week long ventures from hell.
 
I find it funny that there was a smiley after, "MSDS Installation tomorrow!".
Wonder how he's feeling right now?:laugh: Don't take it the wrong way OP, but I've heard it's a PITA with the motor in the car. I'm lucking my 2.5 it junk:rolleyes: Now I can install them while the motor is out.
 
... cutting the EGR is also going way overboard.

Fully agree with that!

I find it funny that there was a smiley after, "MSDS Installation tomorrow!".
Wonder how he's feeling right now?:laugh: Don't take it the wrong way OP, but I've heard it's a PITA with the motor in the car. I'm lucking my 2.5 it junk:rolleyes: Now I can install them while the motor is out.

Well after having them in the warehouse for several weeks I'm happy to finally put them on the car :)

Tha installation took time but the more difficult of it was to remove one of the alternator's screws, it was really tight. Nothing was cut or removed.

I'll put step by step pics of the process in the afternoon!

Thanks everyone for the advise :cool:
 
good to hear all went well and they are on. Now go enjoy the sound they help produce.
 
As I promised:


Getting ready
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Part of the equipment
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Painted
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Original exhaust system (as it was on the car when I bought it)
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1.Y-pipe and third cat out.
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2.Front exhaust manifold out. The lower cover and oil filter were removed to have good space to take out the manifold. Unplugged the oxygen sensor and came along with the manifold.
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3.Back exhaust out, the most difficult part was to remove one of the alternator screws to have space to take out the manifold. Al the nuts of the manifold came out relatively easy with the extensions. Also the shaft support was removed to make space.
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Comparison
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4. Now time to make header mummies.
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5. The back header hoes in first.
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6. Shaft support and alternator screws back in place.
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7. Front header goes in (make sure you plug the oxygen sensor to the header before installing it).
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8. Y-pipe and flexible back in place.
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anyone has the MSDS logo with better resolution than the one on their web page??

If you are looking for decals or anything like that, you can get them straight from MSDS. E-mail them, they would probably give you anything you need.

Ummmm so when the egr tube won't break loose after being sprayed daily for a week and heat applied how do you remove it? You cut it off!! That is not overbored! After I did this I took the manifold to work determined to get if off, heat+24" crescent=fail the nut never broke loose. It happens I know others have had similar problems. Also ratcheting combo wrenches are not overbored either. Good for you how long it takes you, haste makes waste remember that. Come upto Wi/midwest and wrench on a car thats been through a few winters and see how quickly "quick" jobs become week long ventures from hell.

did you forget I live in north and south dakota???? My winters are just as bad as the ones you find in Wisconsin, only colder. My contour came from minnesota even. Call me when you drive around in 17 inches of snow with -45 temperatures before windchill. My cars see just as much sand, salt, and snow as yours... As do most other cars I work on.

I also work on cement mixer trucks, dump trucks, and over the road trucks. Wrench on a truck that has seen 2 million miles of highway, or trucks that see constant rough service, or a mixer truck that you clean using muratic acid, and then you can tell me about rust. BTW haste does not make waste. I just mentioned the time it takes me since I have had a lot of practice doing it now. One more tip. Dont use an adjustable wrench, get the right size wrench and things go much better.
 
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