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Ngk Tr6

Q

qbcsvt

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Oct 12, 2006
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Location
Up North New Jersey
Cannot find the Part number for NGK TR6 spark plugs for our platform. I need these for NPGs Turbo. I believe these are one step colder spark plugs!

Thanks

- amyn
 
I keep coming up with "NGK-4177" The first page one google that has it is rock auto for $1.79 each. Next is a set of 8 for a Lightning "blowbyracing.com", 3rd is some corvette site for a set of 8!

How do I know the ones I am ordering will fit the car? I just want to make sure that what I am ordering fits into the car and I dont strip the spark plug location.

- amyn
 
I know this isn't going to help but .... I ordered them from a website. it was posted here but I can't recall where at the moment.

05-01-08_1958.jpg
 
ok for a 99 SVT

NGK double platnium
PTR5F-11

14mm Thread, 18mm (.708") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Tapered Seat, Resistor, Solid Terminal, Platinum-tipped Ground Electrode and Platinum-tipped Center Electrode, Extra Projected Tip, .050" (1.3mm) Gap, Heat Range 16


NGK TR55 V-Power

14mm Thread, 18mm (.708") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Tapered Seat, Resistor, Solid Terminal, Power Tip, Copper Core, Split "V" Ground Electrode


and the TR6 which we use


NGK TR6 V-Power

14mm Thread, 17.55mm (.691") Reach, 5/8" (16mm) Hex Size, Tapered Seat, Resistor, Removable Terminal, Projected Tip, V-Power (V-Grooved Centere Electrode), .040" (1.016mm) Gap, Heat Range 6


all from sparkplugs.com
 
BigBEN said:
They are $12 EACH!!!
Click to expand...


you sure? I payed like $30 shipped for six of them from sparkplugs.com

what are you looking at. the V-Power TR6 is $2.39 each


edit: never mind you are looking at the double platnium plugs. the TR6 are copper plugs iirc
 
Last edited:
I can find those at just about any Advance Auto for a couple bucks each.

I run stock heat range in my boosted car. Improves idle quite a bit. I think Ray (warmonger's old car) uses stock heat range too.

I used TR6s for about a year and didnt like the idle, cold start was more rough than stock heat range. Maybe would go back to TR6s for the dead of summer, but thats about it.
 
I don't think I have any idle issues with them. in the heat of summer in traffic I did stall the car and it wouldn't restart for a few minutes. only odd thing that I had happen. that was a rough weekend and the tune wasn't dialed in either.

what do you gap the stock plugs to then?
 
.046" I think.

Stock gap until I cross 8 psi. Have had no noticable issues at this point. I feel like in past discussions about a less-than-perfect idle I heard from Warmonger that he used stock gap up to and past 10 psi. Maybe Ray can confirm what he is running and what they are set at.

Obviously, colder is safer, and a tigher gap will prevent the spark from being extinguished.
 
i'm not sure but i'll look in my garage. i bought about 6 sets a long time ago when i ran nitrous, because i changed them frequently. (i cut spark plug life in half with my MSD ignition, because the power is so much higher) i got them for like 2$ apiece. i THINK i still have a set of 6 left, still in the box. you would have to guage them though, as i don't know if they got bumped around or anything in the box (you should check the gap anyways)
 
SHOgoFast said:
.046" I think.

Stock gap until I cross 8 psi. Have had no noticable issues at this point. I feel like in past discussions about a less-than-perfect idle I heard from Warmonger that he used stock gap up to and past 10 psi. Maybe Ray can confirm what he is running and what they are set at.

Obviously, colder is safer, and a tigher gap will prevent the spark from being extinguished.
Click to expand...

lol try running .065" damn MSD..... ugh. this reminds me i need new plugs again
 
BrApple said:
I don't think I have any idle issues with them. in the heat of summer in traffic I did stall the car and it wouldn't restart for a few minutes. only odd thing that I had happen. that was a rough weekend and the tune wasn't dialed in either.

what do you gap the stock plugs to then?
Click to expand...


This is the question of the hour isn't it?

Most will tell you to run colder plugs and tighten the gap on them because that is what the older cars had to do to get the damn things to spark under boost.
The contour ignition is pretty strong so it isn't an issue.
Heat range and plug gap were set at the factory for the combustion chamber design and cylinder pressure. Therefore your stock range is the standard benchmark and then you adjust each variable as required.

My experience showed me that I could run stock heat range platinum plugs with up to 12psi boost and even the stock gap. Just because I could run that range doesn't mean it applies to every car. I recommend running a .045" gap at around 8-10psi and possibly a step colder heat range. Above that you can tighten it more if you have misfire issues under load to see if that changes the problem.

Spark Gap: Remember, the tighter the gap the lower the spark energy. If you widen the gap or increase the combustion pressure then it becomes harder for the spark to jump the gap. Therefore leaving the gap alone and raising the boost pressure will cause the system voltage to climb to maximum in order to "spark", up to the point where it can't any more. Then it doesn't fire and the spark bleeds over/out of the wires somewhere else.
So that's not good either.

Heat range will determine how hot the plug gets. Too hot and it's like a diesel glowplug and will light the fuel off by itself....very bad. Too cool and it will foul, have hard starting, etc. This is affected by cylinder pressure, ambient weather conditions, fuel ratio, etc.
From my experience for the 7-8psi and below turbo/SC guy you don't need to worry about any of this unless you are in hot climates and tracking it a lot. I've "read" a lot of spark plugs from boosted duratecs and the one or two step colder NGKs with too tight of a plug gap are always fouled and dark.

My Advice:
Bottom line is start with stock and tighten the gap about .005" for every 6-7psi of boost.
Adjust heat range down one step if you consistently track the car AND you are boosting 8psi or so consistently. If you are boosting more then perhaps another step cooler, especially from hot climates this is more of an issue versus cool climate way up north.

Read this page to help understand what factors influence heat range:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overviewp4.asp?nav=31000&country=US

NGK Website said:
Heat rating and heat flow path of NGK Spark Plugs
Click to expand...
NGK Website said:
chartheatratingflowpath.gif
The insulator nose length is the distance from the firing tip of the insulator to the point where insulator meets the metal shell. Since the insulator tip is the hottest part of the spark plug, the tip temperature is a primary factor in pre-ignition and fouling. Whether the spark plugs are fitted in a lawnmower, boat, or a race car, the spark plug tip temperature must remain between 500C-850°C. If the tip temperature is lower than 500°C, the insulator area surrounding the center electrode will not be hot enough to burn off carbon and combustion chamber deposits. These accumulated deposits can result in spark plug fouling leading to misfire. If the tip temperature is higher than 850°C the spark plug will overheat which may cause the ceramic around the center electrode to blister and the electrodes to melt. This may lead to pre-ignition/detonation and expensive engine damage. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one heat range to the next is the ability to remove approximately 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber. A projected style spark plug firing tip temperature is increased by 10°C to 20°C.
Click to expand...
 
back to the original question ... I found the boxes from my TR6 plugs and they had the 4177 number on the box.
 
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