qbcsvt
Hard-core CEG'er
Installed one of these F1 Stage 3 (6puick) on a friends car and shifted like butter and had a great feel to it as well. Car has been down for other reasons so He hasnt really tested it anywhere.
- amyn
- amyn
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F1 Stage 2 Pics
- Thread starter RFcsvt
- Start date
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
Yeah. I just have to find time to drop the trans and swap in my ACT. Just with the pending weddings, and other things coming up finding the 6 hours to do this is going to be rough
Hadn't noticed till now that your ZX2 was boosted. how much torque are you throwing at the flywheel?
I'm not sure if kevlar is the best friction material for a boosted engine, might not be "grabby enough" for lack of a better term...
also, out of curiosity, what manual trans does a ZX2 use? I'd want to think it has a zetec MTX75
striker2
Official CEG Vendor
also, out of curiosity, what manual trans does a ZX2 use? I'd want to think it has a zetec MTX75
the Manual trans in the ZX2 is a Mazda G5M, which is also what was used in the 2.5L Probe.
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
ah, ok then... sort of strange when you think about the years they developed the contour and the ZX2 as compared to the probe...
striker2
Official CEG Vendor
ah, ok then... sort of strange when you think about the years they developed the contour and the ZX2 as compared to the probe...
it was probably a space constraint in the engine bay since the Escort is smaller than the Contour.
alwayssideways
CEG'er
Our trans is slightly different from the probe. The zetec uses the several parts from the mx3, protege (older 90-94 i believe) 2nd gen escorts. I think the probe trans bolts up but will not function correctly. However a couple of people have swapped in klze's into the zx2. We can use sedan trans from the same year. Most of us replace the diffs. Same as the cougar/contour guys. The soft side gears disintegrate. Most people put in mfactory diffs now (i think they are guaranteed to like 1000hps) , I installed a phantom grip diff locker and it seems to be working well.
For power at the wheels I am putting down 215hp and 214ftlbs. I am at just about the max of the clutch (as per the website, 230 ftlbs was max). My big complaint of the clutch was not being able to feel it engage and sometimes over revving the engine
I know there are a few people who have looked at the mtx75 swap for the zx2. No one has sucessfully done it yet. I think the windage tray would have to be swapped as well as the driver side mount would have to be moved , and custom axles made. Also setting it up to accept the cable shifter instead of the linkage
For power at the wheels I am putting down 215hp and 214ftlbs. I am at just about the max of the clutch (as per the website, 230 ftlbs was max). My big complaint of the clutch was not being able to feel it engage and sometimes over revving the engine
I know there are a few people who have looked at the mtx75 swap for the zx2. No one has sucessfully done it yet. I think the windage tray would have to be swapped as well as the driver side mount would have to be moved , and custom axles made. Also setting it up to accept the cable shifter instead of the linkage
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
the phantom grip is probably a bad idea. they basically push the side gears out to rub against the diff carrier like a clutch type LSD. the problem with this in these crap ford diff's is that: A) it causes friction to wear away the harder outer layer of the powder metal, and B) it pushes the side gears farther from the planet gears, thus causing less of the surface of the sets of teeth to engage, both of which I believe will increase the rate of failure.
I'm not certain of this though, and I know they seem to hold up fine in honda transmissions, but honda knew better than to use potmetal gears in a differential. I'd be interested in if the pre-98 machined steel diff gears would hold up to a phantom grip. I might even be brave enough to try it out if I can't get funds for a torsen soon...
I did literally split the planet gears off of the shaft in a pre-98 diff with the stock SE 2.5 liter though, so a phantom grip in an early diff would certainly call for some babying...
I'm not certain of this though, and I know they seem to hold up fine in honda transmissions, but honda knew better than to use potmetal gears in a differential. I'd be interested in if the pre-98 machined steel diff gears would hold up to a phantom grip. I might even be brave enough to try it out if I can't get funds for a torsen soon...
I did literally split the planet gears off of the shaft in a pre-98 diff with the stock SE 2.5 liter though, so a phantom grip in an early diff would certainly call for some babying...
alwayssideways
CEG'er
im hoping it will hold me over till i can get a mfactory diff
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
how many thousand do you have on it? I'm guessing your a little hard on your car? I'm sort of curious as to how this holds up for you.
alwayssideways
CEG'er
The trans has (i think, not sure if it has been replaced before I bought the car ) 190k. The diff has been rebuild. When I opened up the trans it was in great shape. The engine is newer ,, less than 85k I would say. and the body of the car has about 200 k
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
I meant how many miles on the PG. also I'm assuming you have it installed on the stock powder-metal diff?
Nobodies ever installed one in a contour to my knowledge, but if it will hold up to a turbo and a hard driver in a car with similar diff issues it may not be as big of a piece of junk as I was originally thinking.
Nobodies ever installed one in a contour to my knowledge, but if it will hold up to a turbo and a hard driver in a car with similar diff issues it may not be as big of a piece of junk as I was originally thinking.
alwayssideways
CEG'er
ahhhh, hahaha I have about 3 k miles on it right now. Still holding strong.
The PG is hit or miss. Some guys have had great luck and others not so much. I was told the newer ones are better because of upgraded springs used. I am not sure what version I have. After reading about the earlier diffs for contours being stronger. Those sound like perfect candidates for a pg. They sound like they can withstand a lot as well as be a cheaper solution to a torsion
The PG is hit or miss. Some guys have had great luck and others not so much. I was told the newer ones are better because of upgraded springs used. I am not sure what version I have. After reading about the earlier diffs for contours being stronger. Those sound like perfect candidates for a pg. They sound like they can withstand a lot as well as be a cheaper solution to a torsion
RFcsvt
Veteran CEG'er
I wanted to add some info to this thread considering I have been running this clutch kit now for about a month.
The clutch has about 700 miles on it, so I thought it was either broken in or very close to being broken in. It felt pretty good until yesterday when it started slipping while dyno tuning. It held up through 4-5 pulls, but after that it would not hold past about 4k rpms. The car make about 195 whp and 190~ torque, the tune was dialed in by the time it started slipping but we were unable to get a couple final pulls in. The guy doing my tune did think the pedal felt a little too light and the engagement was a little high, I noticed this too but the clutch felt good until this point. Driving home it would slip like crazy in third gear past 4k rpms. Needless to say I had to drive very nice the rest of the way.
So now I'm pretty sure the engine is getting pulled one more time due to this issue and one other thing I didn't do when I swapped the 3L in. I'm pretty sure I won't be reintalling the disk or PP and am leaning towards a disk from Clutchnet right now installed with my stock SVT PP. I guess my initial feeling is that maybe the PP is not clamping down as much as the say it does, or maybe the disk just doesn't perform the way they claim it to. If anyone has any other thoughts that would be great, I'm open to all opinions.
The clutch has about 700 miles on it, so I thought it was either broken in or very close to being broken in. It felt pretty good until yesterday when it started slipping while dyno tuning. It held up through 4-5 pulls, but after that it would not hold past about 4k rpms. The car make about 195 whp and 190~ torque, the tune was dialed in by the time it started slipping but we were unable to get a couple final pulls in. The guy doing my tune did think the pedal felt a little too light and the engagement was a little high, I noticed this too but the clutch felt good until this point. Driving home it would slip like crazy in third gear past 4k rpms. Needless to say I had to drive very nice the rest of the way.
So now I'm pretty sure the engine is getting pulled one more time due to this issue and one other thing I didn't do when I swapped the 3L in. I'm pretty sure I won't be reintalling the disk or PP and am leaning towards a disk from Clutchnet right now installed with my stock SVT PP. I guess my initial feeling is that maybe the PP is not clamping down as much as the say it does, or maybe the disk just doesn't perform the way they claim it to. If anyone has any other thoughts that would be great, I'm open to all opinions.
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wait and see if the clutch still stips today. it might have gotten over heated on the dyno and started slipping.
actually the first night I had the 3L and spec stage 3+ in my car I started getting on it alittle to much with the test drive and it started to slip alittle. Just took it very easy after that. it slipped when I got off the highway on the way home. then I did a 1k mile break in and it was fine until the springs came out of the hub.
actually the first night I had the 3L and spec stage 3+ in my car I started getting on it alittle to much with the test drive and it started to slip alittle. Just took it very easy after that. it slipped when I got off the highway on the way home. then I did a 1k mile break in and it was fine until the springs came out of the hub.
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RFcsvt
Veteran CEG'er
wait and see if the clutch still stips today. it might have gotten over heated on the dyno and started slipping.
actually the first night I had the 3L and spec stage 3+ in my car I started getting on it alittle to much with the test drive and it started to slip alittle. Just took it very easy after that. it slipped when I got off the highway on the way home. then I did a 1k mile break in and it was fine until the springs came out of the hub.
Thanks that's good to know, that puts my mind at ease a little more. The engine will get pulled for the rear main seal which is my own fault for not replacing it to begin with so the clutch will be looked at then. I'll give it time though, probably another 1k miles and see what happens. It's a good thing the tune got done, the tuner did say I could bring it back to get a little more midrange but the tune is very good as is.
RFcsvt
Veteran CEG'er
Clutch is still slipping very significantly. Any hard shift from first to second, or second to third and it will not grab at all. I can also get it to slip by going wot at about 4k rpms in third gear. Pedal is very light, it barely has more resistance than the gas pedal. I drove it easy for a couple more tanks of gas with plenty of normal shifting, so I don't think it's a break in thing at this point. I'm not sure what's going on to cause this. Either way now I'm sure it's going to come out soon. I just need to decide if I should get a whole new clutch and pp, or if I should just throw the slightly used stock LUK clutch and PP back in. The clutch and PP I have has about 36k miles on it and it was not abused.
elraido
I kant speel
Clutch is still slipping very significantly. Any hard shift from first to second, or second to third and it will not grab at all. I can also get it to slip by going wot at about 4k rpms in third gear. Pedal is very light, it barely has more resistance than the gas pedal. I drove it easy for a couple more tanks of gas with plenty of normal shifting, so I don't think it's a break in thing at this point. I'm not sure what's going on to cause this. Either way now I'm sure it's going to come out soon. I just need to decide if I should get a whole new clutch and pp, or if I should just throw the slightly used stock LUK clutch and PP back in. The clutch and PP I have has about 36k miles on it and it was not abused.
Depends if you want to rip into it again. Personally I would just run up to Steve at Tousley Ford and get a whole new PP, Clutch and TOB. Sell the used stuff in the classifieds.
RFcsvt
Veteran CEG'er
Depends if you want to rip into it again. Personally I would just run up to Steve at Tousley Ford and get a whole new PP, Clutch and TOB. Sell the used stuff in the classifieds.
I would rather not rip into it again, at least not this summer. I guess I have about a week to decide.