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boost gauge question

So wait... your not going to run any intercooler at all? If that is the case your going to want to almost double the boost pressure your running to get the car back to the power that it had before. However doing that is going to really raise your intake temps. For every 1psi of boost you increase your intake temp by roughly 13.6°.
 
mike i dont see why. when it was tuned the intercooler wasnt functioning, just there acting as a pipe. and i cant double the boost
 
on the dyno ? sitting still? probably will function best with flowing air like on the highway. datalog in that scenario. do you have a datalog hady to show the intercooler not working?
 
q: this just occured to me. if the egr lowers the intake temp, wouldnt that be even more helpful in forced induction applications? why do you guys delete them anyways?
 
The egr only open while at cruise conditions on the highway. I left mine intact to pass state emissions, which I do. However based on the stock setup I had issues with blowing the lines off the DPFE sensor. So to really keep it and make it work correct the reference line to the DPFE should be after the turbo, not before as in the stock setup.
 
i deleted it because it was a PITA to get the pipe to fit right and not leak. and i still pass emissions as well
 
svtfixer said:
q: this just occured to me. if the egr lowers the intake temp, wouldnt that be even more helpful in forced induction applications? why do you guys delete them anyways?
Click to expand...

EGR doesnt lower intake temps. It lowers combustion temps by displacing some of the intake charge with inert exhaust gas. It has its uses for reducing NOx emissions while cruising. Most people delete it to help keep the intake cleaner as all the carbon flowing through the intake manifold gums things up.
 
i mis stated that. similar but not the same.

as far as fitment, i forgot about that. i had the pipe fitment to the intake be a huge problem one time and that was when it was pulling the uim up just enough for me to leak and get the metered air codes and i couldnt pass emissions. my fault for having a nautilius custom made header on it..

is that the gunk in the intake a result of the egr or the pcv and valve cover breather recirculation?
 
i was playing w the vacuum lines today.. seems to be a fairly common thing that the crappy grommet for the vac gauge dries out. im tired of this. im joining the egr block off/vaccum tap club here.

oh this also reminds me that i need a smoke machine.
 
Its much cheaper to build a pressure tester and it will help find boost leaks better. PVC pipe cap with an air regulator and fitting on it so that you can set the pressure down to like 20PSI and then you can just hook it up to a compressor.
the sizing on this is meant for a 3000GT but the same process can be used to build one to fit your setup for cheap.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-pressuretester.htm
 
i keep reading about the egr delte and its really back and forth, seems like opinion. i went ahead and ordered one anyways to try to simplify the system. one read said it was undriveable with the delete and no tune or whatever to remedy it. anyone whos gone thru this ? im not yet tuning myself but in the tune itself, how do you tell the cpu the dpfe is working correctly?
 
With my full 3l I deleted the egr. I connected evr and run a vacuum line to dpfe. And nothing yet. Knock on wood. No tune and runs fine. I drive her border line hard.

vuda3epa.jpg
 
yeah i read the same article with this diagram and they were saying they still got the check code. this diagram suggests it was blocked and not capped, did you block the uim and cap the exhaust manifold?
 
gratuitous engine bay shot camera 1! haha anyways, but what did you do about your 3l tune? i have a port matched and it is not tuned. ive been just fine with no chodes for cats etc.
 
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