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boost gauge question

jaged

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Oct 18, 2004
Messages
974
Location
NW,Indiana
Is it possible to tap the egr delete plate for the boost gauge and get an accurate reading, or does it need to be closer to the charger?
 
Iirc most people tap into the brake booster line for the gauge. I'd say that would be okay.
 
The easiest way to get a boost reading is to "T" off one of the plastic vacuum lines behind the intake. At least you could convert it back to stock without too much trouble.
 
i had spaghetti, and with this last install it all got cleaned up and id like to keep it that way. with the intercooler set up i had it was tapped into the intercooler and that worked out well. the egr plate is the cleanest way i can think of with this new set up im working on
 
drilled the block off plate tonight, going to tap it in the morning. also made some special bits for my new pressure pipe, just need to get it welded up. its pretty neat
 
you could probably use the egr vaccum green piece that you deleted.



I have to double check but that isn't going to work. The green line goes to the egr solenoid, iirc. It only sees vacuum when the egr valve is commended to open.


Tapping the block off plate should be fine, I am pretty sure others have done this before. I myself tap into the vacuum lines off the UIM.
 
I had the EGR plate tapped for my boost gauge (100 years ago it seems). A little tough to see. Worked great.

second3l013ut6.jpg
 
picking the pressure pipe up on my way home today, if i can make it out into the garage ill snap a pic or two
 
you can get them at home depot. i have one that was barbed from the factory.

took the pictures with the ipad and they didnt turn out
 
this makes me anxious about getting the supercharged car back in action.

i hate the stupid egr pipe and valve. one more thing to add to the mess.
 
Where did you get that copper/gold colored t-joint on your vacuum line?

You can get a plastic barbed T joint form Menards/Home Depot which will work just as well and be much more compact. Then you won't have to by the copper T above plus 3 barb fittings. I suppose the copper will last longer but I'm sure it costs a lot more. :)
 
It's actually brass and while more costly than plastic, I found it more versatile should I need to add/remove boost/vac ports. The boost gauge came off of an additional brass T before tapping the EGR plate.
 
little bit of bright in an otherwise dark engine bay







need to trim the coupler a bit to get things to fit straight and just right
 
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