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Baer Upgrade Kit

Uhhhhh
baer has a template you can print off to find out.

I personally don't think they will fit on those wheels.....
 
verrry nice brakes! i'll post up some pics as soon as i get the new rotors from baer and get it all installed on the car. mine are black with white letters. should look pretty nice
 
Brakes look awesome man, nice choice.
I've always loved the calipers but I couldnt stand losing all that rotor surface area to holes.
I doubt you'd say that after you've stopped on them and seen how they look in person. I have and the looks worth it, it's not like any of us are open track addicts from what I can tell.
-J
 
JEGS.... everywhere I was looking was charging $1400 with the extra options, I got it from them for $1294.XX including shipping.

Not too shabby cause the base 13" Kit is $1050 shipped everywhere so i paid like 250 more for the 2 piece rotors and the polishing service!

- amyn
 
I doubt you'd say that after you've stopped on them and seen how they look in person. I have and the looks worth it, it's not like any of us are open track addicts from what I can tell.

I'd probably say it regardless. If the car stopped well I'd wonder how well it would have stopped with more surface area for the pads to grab. To me slotted rotors look just as trick as drilled rotors so to see them both on a street car makes me smile.
 
I'd probably say it regardless. If the car stopped well I'd wonder how well it would have stopped with more surface area for the pads to grab. To me slotted rotors look just as trick as drilled rotors so to see them both on a street car makes me smile.

Just stop, please. You don't know the first thing about brakes, so don't go spreading these psuedo-technical statements because someone else like you might latch on to them and spread them further. Much like the old "cast-in" rotor holes myth spread as well.

Rotor to pad surface area has ZERO affect in and of itself on brake torque generation. Further, slotted rotors will remove just as much if not more surface contact area as drilled rotors. There are several reasons that make drilled rotors less than desirable in almost all modern brake applications, but the decreased surface contact certainly isn't one of them.
 
And there is no way you could tell the difference in drilled/slotted vs. plain rotors in back-to-back testing---by seat-of the pants or likely in stopping distance.
You can however notice the difference in all the comments you'll get---the Cobra was great looking for a lot of reasons but I got most random comments on the rotors:
wheel2.jpg

-J
 
I've said almost all that at the bottom of the writeup in previous posts, but in fewer words. I just found this link today, and after reading this thread I thought it would fit in well. I know of very many links to nerdy stuff like this.
 
http://www.buildafastercar.com/tech/Drilled-Brake-Rotors Just some interesting brake info. It includes drilled rotors too!

It's an ok write up, but he's going to far in trying to disparage cross-drilled rotors. When designed properly, a drilled rotor can increase the cooling co-efficient of the rotor (ie how fast built-up heat in the rotor is dispersed to the air) but only when the entire rotor, including the vane design and hole pattern are all designed together using extensive CFD.

Further, he implies that only cross-drilled rotors will crack due to thermal fatigue in hard use. They will, but so will slotted, or dimpled or even plain faced rotors. It's all a matter of how quickly, and and where the cracks show up. Most rotors on the street will wear out before the heat checking becomes prevalent.
 
Just stop, please. You don't know the first thing about brakes, so don't go spreading these psuedo-technical statements because someone else like you might latch on to them and spread them further. Much like the old "cast-in" rotor holes myth spread as well.

Rotor to pad surface area has ZERO affect in and of itself on brake torque generation. Further, slotted rotors will remove just as much if not more surface contact area as drilled rotors. There are several reasons that make drilled rotors less than desirable in almost all modern brake applications, but the decreased surface contact certainly isn't one of them.

The problem I have with holes is that it weakens the rotor and limits the amount of heat it can hold while slots lose some surface area but still contribute to the heat holding ability. Those are the facts from years of brake work with autocross and track cars. Yes they look better to some people but there is a reason that when you go to an autocross or track day they discourage drilled rotors. I've seen cracks in all types of rotors but the cross drilled ones are the worst looking and the only type I've ever seen fail and destroy a wheel while out on the course.
 
I never said it had anything to do with stopping power.

REALLY? You didn't? I seem to recall you saying something about somebody's car stopping better without the lost surface area from the holes . . . OH WAIT, it's right in this thread . . .

I'd probably say it regardless. If the car stopped well I'd wonder how well it would have stopped with more surface area for the pads to grab.

Hmm, yeah, sure looks like that is what you were getting at here.

The problem I have with holes is that it weakens the rotor and limits the amount of heat it can hold.

Yes, drilling holes in the rotor brings stress concentrations that tends to bring the normal heat checking cracks from heavy use to occur right at the holes first. Thermal capacity of the rotor is minimally affected, as the % of mass removed from the rotor is minimal, something on the order of 2-3% typically. Much more mass is removed when switching to a 2-piece rotor.

Those are the facts from years of brake work with autocross and track cars.

Do you really want to argue about levels of experience with brakes on anyhting from street cars to professional race cars and anywhere in between? Because I guarantee you, I'll win that argument by a landslide.

Yes they look better to some people but there is a reason that when you go to an autocross or track day they discourage drilled rotors. I've seen cracks in all types of rotors but the cross drilled ones are the worst looking and the only type I've ever seen fail and destroy a wheel while out on the course.

I'm not defending drilled rotors at all, I just want you to get your facts straight, and stop spreading psuedo-tech. Drilled rotors have thier place, both when appearance is the only factor, and even in true performance applications where the rotor designer plans on having holes from the beginning (a particular GM engineer has published a few excellent SAE papers on the subject ). I've seen all types of rotors crack, and I've seen plain-face rotors crack and fail as well. I've never seen a rotor fail on a street/track/race car when it was properly inspected and maintained and replaced appropriately, even with drilled rotors. Regardless of thier construction, rotors are a consumable wear item, and should be inspected on a regular basis to see if they need replacement. (Granted, carbon-based rotor technology changes this game a bit).
 
Yes, drilling holes in the rotor brings stress concentrations that tends to bring the normal heat checking cracks from heavy use to occur right at the holes first. Thermal capacity of the rotor is minimally affected, as the % of mass removed from the rotor is minimal, something on the order of 2-3% typically. Much more mass is removed when switching to a 2-piece rotor.

I'm not defending drilled rotors at all, I just want you to get your facts straight, and stop spreading psuedo-tech. Drilled rotors have thier place, both when appearance is the only factor, and even in true performance applications where the rotor designer plans on having holes from the beginning (a particular GM engineer has published a few excellent SAE papers on the subject ). I've seen all types of rotors crack, and I've seen plain-face rotors crack and fail as well. I've never seen a rotor fail on a street/track/race car when it was properly inspected and maintained and replaced appropriately, even with drilled rotors. Regardless of thier construction, rotors are a consumable wear item, and should be inspected on a regular basis to see if they need replacement. (Granted, carbon-based rotor technology changes this game a bit).

I've seen higher numbers than 2-3% in other things I've read but you're right that its a minimal loss in metal compared with going to a 2 piece like you mention. Its the cracking in drilled blanks that bothers me most about cross drilled rotors and the fact that they're presented as a performance item when they generally arent.

I'm not trying to spread any misinformation and you're exactly right when you say that rotors designed to have holes (and/or slots) have their place on performance vehicles. My beef is when people see drilled rotors on a porsche or slotted rotors on a bmw and slap the cheapest copy they can on their own cars without any research into it. Before drilled rotors became popular a few years ago my gripe was people slapping on larger master cylinders or larger calipers thinking that it would help everything without doing the research to see what it would do to brake balance and pedal feel.

And I'm glad you brought up regular inspection and brakes being a wear item because thats lost on a lot of people. I take a good look at my rotors and pads every time the wheel comes off but all time time I see people at autocrosses and track days just swap tires as fast as they can, as was the case when the rotor flew apart on the 350Z. I could only shake my head when he was griping about buying those rotors just for the track day since I was pretty sure they came from a discounter with a line at the bottom saying not to use them for track days.
 
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