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3L trouble!!

O2 sensors are designed for 100K miles or so, which means it starts being less "efficient" at 50k miles or so. Based on the expected "life" of the present O2 sensor, if you put in a new O2 sensor and it is not the problem, you are out $12.50, not $50.

But you could splice the "spare" O2 sensor to the old sensor connector to try (if you think the spare is good).
 
LOL. Not $12.50 per sensor. $12.50 left in your present old sensor. You mentioned you have 75k miles in them. Based on the "life" of the old O2 sensor, you have one quarter "life" (25k miles) left in it.

100k miles = $50
25k miles = $12.50
 
unplug the maf and then try to start it without the plug hooked up. See if it starts and runs. If nothing changes, put it back together.

Also, someone posted that your IAC valve could have died, it is rare to die closed but it could be gummed up. You may unbolt that and clean it, also while it is off you can plug it in and have someone turn the key on as you watch. The pintle should move out.
 
warmonger said:
Also, someone posted that your IAC valve could have died, it is rare to die closed but it could be gummed up. You may unbolt that and clean it, also while it is off you can plug it in and have someone turn the key on as you watch. The pintle should move out.
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The problems surfaced when the car was running. I noticed the exhuast tone change, and was a little louder and sort of poppy sounding (like it was misfiring or something)
 
3L trouble NEW INFO

3L trouble NEW INFO

Well, I replaced the o2 sensor for sh-ts and giggles, and that really didn't do much ( I didnt check for a code for it yet).

BUT, I unplugged my MAF like Warmonger suggested and the car would start and actually stay running (idled a little rough but hell, it's plugged in!) So my guess is that my MAF went bad? Or more specifically the sensor in it went bad...

What do you guys think?

Can that sensor part be bought separat from the entire MAF or do I need a whole new MAF? Anyone got one?
 
You'll need an entire new maf. Used or new. SVT's have SVT specific mafs. Just order one from Jenkins.
 
Last edited:
Tony2005 said:
Did you try cleaning or testing the MAF sensor?

Cleaning procedure

http://www.contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=36
and
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/s...umber=989728&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1
and
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1b/cb/25/0900823d801bcb25.jsp


Testing procedure
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1b/cb/25/0900823d801bcb25.jsp
Click to expand...


Ok, just tried that and the MAF has to be shot...

New MAF from Bill Jenkins: F6DZ-12B579-EARM

He also said that the MAF is the same for the SVT/non-SVT according to his stuff. He said this is the correct part number! So hopefully when it gets here I can drive my car again. Just put on my new exhaust n the rear (resonators w/ new tips) so hopefully it'll be quieter too.
 
They are the same diameter's etc. The SVT's have different calibrations for the 19 lb injectors. I have an SE MAF on my SVT and it works fine. Don't know if I'm getting the most HP though.
 
Well, I should be getting my new MAF tomorrow. I won't know til then if thats the only problem I have or not. I have a fear (after reading o****less posts on the old boards) that the IAC may have something to do with it. Today I took off the UIM and made sure all the gaskets were seated correctly (they were) inspected the vac lines again (looked good) and I also removed the IAC and cleaned it using the same stuff I used for the MAF. Reinstalled everything and the problem is still there. So...I guess I'll see tomorrow if the MAF works, if not...feel free to hit me up if you have an IAC for sale.
 
I have an extra IAC. For an ovalport. I'm guessing you did a hybrid. I've never had luck with cleaning an IAC. End up buying one to fix the issue.
 
Yea, I have an oval port 3L (svt cams, LIM, etc.) If the IAC will work for my upper plenum (if you know) let me know. I might be interested in picking it up to at least see if that solves the problem. Until then, I'm waiting on this MAF.
 
todras said:
IAC. :lol:
Click to expand...

That is what I was thinking, but I don't want to keep going back and forth on parts...I'm lucky enough that B.J. is going to accept my return on the MAF. If you need me to go into any more detail about any part of this issue, I will do my best.
 
Found the problem

Found the problem

So yea, I found out the problem with my car...and I feel like a real idiot. I finally got someone over to start the car so I could stick my head under the hood and listen around to see if I could hear a vaccum leak...and oh my God was there a leak. I took off the upper Plenum today and used a light and sat it between my heads and looked in the intake ports for signs of light. On the Right head (looking from the tranny to engine; firewall side) the center port lit up like Christmas. It turns out my JBWELD injector blockage gave way, and I had a gaping hole! I feel like an idiot for not seeing it before. I mean, how can you miss a dime sized hole? Anyways...I have to take off the uim, and check the prt for debris, and I also think I'm going to drop the y-pipe and check my cat for anything.

Anyone have any suggestions for fixing the hole? Please don't say removing the head and getting it welded. I should have done that in the first place, but I know several people have used the JBWELD and had no problems. So I decided to use that and save time.
 
I would just redo the JB Weld. You could try the overkill method(I was paranoid of this happening to me). It turns out that JB Weld sticks very well to itself, even after it has dried. It's not that pretty, but it is very effective at blocking vaccum leaks. I also, as an extra measure of paranoia, used some sensor-safe RTV on the LIM gasket.

I would just do something like this while it's in the car. Take precaution that nothing falls in while your doing it. The vaccum cleaner with attatchement is your friend.


 
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