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Turbo about 90% done

That oil drain is f@#ked. It needs to run STRAIGHT into the oil pan (block is my preference), no dips, loopty loops, sags, how's-your-father, etc. Fix it unless you want to be forcing oil into the intake. Plus that plastic loom crap is pointless, it'll probably melt from the heat of the exhaust manifold. Finally use high-temp or braided hose or forgedaboudit.

Also get a blanket for the hot side of the turbo otherwise it'll negate the intercooler as those intake pipes will be hotter than the face of the sun.
 
What Stazi said X10.

One of the main things that ended up biting me in the arse on my CSVT was the oil drain line. Just that fitting and even the bend in it will get your car burning oil. Think of it this way, if you were pouring the oil down the line simply to fill the pan up, how straight would you want it to make sure it would drain every drop with gravity alone? That's how straight it needs to be. The bigger the line/fittings, the better (for the drain line).
Also, take the extra steps in shielding the heat from the turbo. F#*&!, do they get hot!
 
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Rob,

Just a fyi, you really should use the plug by the a/c compressor for your oil pressure gauge. By the time you notice your head losing oil pressure, it is probally too late... but then comes the 3L fun! :)


Keep us updated!


Oh, and how the heck do you even have room to mount your oil pressure sender off the front head!?!?!? I didn't know it was possible to mount the pressure sender or anything for that matter on that side of the front head.


Anyways, get it done!
 
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Stazi said:
That oil drain is f@#ked. It needs to run STRAIGHT into the oil pan (block is my preference), no dips, loopty loops, sags, how's-your-father, etc. quote]

Must be a combination of guy humor and drunken stuper, but this line made me laugh my ass off.

Carry on. :laugh:
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It does need to come top down to the brass fitting, not go below and come back up or the oil will pool in it.

If it is too long just cut the hose a bit shorter so that it just fits the fitting from an angle higher than a horizontal line through that fitting.
 
hey nice pics, i really appreciate it. the vacuum line pic was just what i was looking for.:cool:

question though for tom or joey or anyone with a turbo installed. i have always taken the vacuum line for the BOV after the throttle body and the wastegate vacuum from before the throttle body? Does it really not make a difference?
 
First just cut back the hose and make it straight that will avoid the dip that will pool the oil. Second the hose it if you route up like we said the heat will not be an issue since i bought power steering hose 3/8 ID that takes more theat than the average hose it is super thick and takes alot more heat then a standard hose. I also ran ADC drain and had to add hose and metal tubing to make the bend right. Plus the drain was located under the header unlike this setup to avoi direct heat from the header. On my protype I ran regular heater hose to do the testing and had no deform or soft heat welps from the testing so far. So the hose I provided if routed correctly will not suffer any heat if so I will provide you with a SS line at no charge but it hasn't so far.

And about the oil feed input the turbo only needs 10-15psi to work safely and you did mention you have the oil guage on the other port next to it. If you loose oil pressure you have more than just turbo to worry about try rods..... but oil pumps are rare to go out they usually loose pressure slowly so a good gauge like you have will catch that first.

Other than that you did a great job on the install on the kit. Oh Stazi is right about the plastic ditch it the hose can handle it by itself.

And about the wastegate you want to get your source closest to the engine so you can make absolute sure you have that psi at the motor. The BOV is of course always at the manifold since it draws a vacuum. People who put the wastegate early will see higher pressure due to normal 1-2 psi pressure drops pn the FMIC,pipping, bends, etc.
 
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Stazi said:
That oil drain is f@#ked. It needs to run STRAIGHT into the oil pan (block is my preference), no dips, loopty loops, sags, how's-your-father, etc. Fix it unless you want to be forcing oil into the intake. Plus that plastic loom crap is pointless, it'll probably melt from the heat of the exhaust manifold. Finally use high-temp or braided hose or forgedaboudit.
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Alright alright, i'll fix the oil line. lol
 
Alrighty. Oil drain fixed and mounted to the turbo. It is sloping downward all the way to the pan.

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I dont think Rob was saying he was going to tap the block, just that he was gonna take up some of the slack off the oil line.

Come on, Everyone knows Stazi's like Superman of CEG, ust wihout the Super Powers or Secret Identity! :cool:
 
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Make sure you change the oil pressure reading to the block adjacent to the stock sender. Remember the loads on the rods you are going to put on them with the turbo are much more severe so you want to make sure that you are reading the REAL pressure all the time and have the fastest response (via the gauge) if something goes wrong.

Honestly, out of all of the gauges in my car, the one I look at the most is the oil pressure. Reading oil pressure from the head is like trying to get a baby's temperture by inserting the thermometer into it's teddy bear.
 
just wondering while we are on the subject of oil pressure, does anyone know what the minimum pressure threshold is that trips the stock oil pressure switch and turns on the dummy light?
 
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