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time for new suspension components

I'd do it all at once. The rear strut has a perch that sits atop the rear subframe , so pulling the subframe first would make it a bit easier to get them out.
 
OK, after a visit to the Pull a Part, I forgot that

"no cheater bar = no strut work".

I also didn't realize until yesterday, that my BAT rear springs came with some rubber tubing on the lower ends. Is this suppose to stay ? Are there rubber gaskets I need to reuse from the old struts ?

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
If it's what Im picturing, it's on there to keep the spring from rubbing metal on metal with the spring perch. Keep it quiet.
 
So keep the tubes on. I emailed BAT for confirmation. The front springs didn't come with the rubber tubes.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
When I take the front strut/springs apart, are there any small rubber liners/gaskets/etc I have to re-use ?

The PRT parts are on the way. Soon, It will all be here.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
MadDog said:
When I take the front strut/springs apart, are there any small rubber liners/gaskets/etc I have to re-use ?

The PRT parts are on the way. Soon, It will all be here.

thanks,


Mad Dog
Click to expand...

No parts that I recall other than the lower strut mounting bolts. Replacement strut should have a new nylock nut included. This is used to secure the upper strut mount to the piston rod.
 
Thats good news. The PRT parts showed up, and as soon as I get from a trip I need to put the rear struts/springs together, then start work on the rear subframe. I can't wait to replace the clanky-clunky parts with new parts.

Mad Dog
 
I'm interested in how your rear subframe swap goes, although your not in the rust belt like me. I have a sandblasted recoated one collecting dust in my garage that i'm procrastinating on putting on.
 
It will be a little while until I get the new sub-frame modified, but I am mostly worried about the alignment pins. I saw your posts and you seem to be in the same boat.

thnaks,

Mad Dog
 
Two things on the alignment pin concerns, both utilized by me w/100% success: 1) make alignment markings on current rear subframe to body references and 2) either utilize the factory OEM alignment tool (pins) or deep sockets/dowels. Some say 17mm, but the OD of these run the gamut, so it's hit or miss. I used option #1 and the alignment shop stated I was "spot on".
 
In order to visualize this better, does anyone have a picture of the Ford alignment tool ?

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
After much procrastination, I finally started to look at how to mount the Energy Suspension bracket to the sub-frame I bought, in order to fit the 21mm BAT sway bar. I read multiple how-tos, but I think I ran into a problem.

The ES bracket is huge. You can't fit it onto the bracket. Even if you try and overlay a new piece over the existing bracket, you run into fitment issues on both sides. For example, in the attached picture, the line circled in green sits (this is on the passengers side) real close to the end of the OEM bracket, which prevents you from putting a longer piece in.

IMG_0296..JPG

What is this line ? Gas ? Brake ? I am assuming It Is Something Not Be F$cked With.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
Just to add to what I wrote..... I wanted to use the Energy Suspension 21mm bracket (greaseless - its smaller than the greasable one), a 21mm sway bar (BAT) and an overlay on the original mount (so to avoid cutting the original piece out). However, it looks like that won't work, all together. The ES bracket is too damn big. Even if I try to do the Solo bracket method, I don't think I have the space.

Mad Dog
 
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