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....so i went out this morning to figure out the vibration issue. I noticed the crank wheel pulley, tensioner, & serpentine belt were all shaking. That eliminated the engine mounts & a compression check as far as i was concerned. Unless anyone feels otherwise. When i get back from work, i'll check on the crank wheel bolt to make sure it's torqued down tight. Anyone have any ideas as to what the possible culprit could be? I should mention that as the rpms go up, the vibration goes away. Thx all.
 
Well if both the pulley and tensioner was shaking that's a bit interesting. I guess check the damper and tensioner pulley bolts first. Let us know what you find. What is the engine rpm doing during all this?

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Well if both the pulley and tensioner was shaking that's a bit interesting. I guess check the damper and tensioner pulley bolts first. Let us know what you find. What is the engine rpm doing during all this?

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Engine rpm is stable. I took off the serp belt to try n isolate even further. 1) The vibration dramatically reduced in the cockpit. 2) Tensioner stopped shaking & feels tight. 3) All remaining pulleys feel tight. 4) The only component still shaking now is the crank pulley. Here's a photo i took of it. Hopefully you can see it too. The spacing in between the rubber & metal is wider on one side in comparison to the other. See it? Someone know if that is enough to cause the shaking?


mms_img1003907043_zpsf40e69cc.jpg
 
the dmd wobbles at low rpms and straightens out at high rpms.... If youre feeling a vibration it might be something else.
 
Dammit. My car should be done already!!! Petty issues.

Crank pulley can be put on slightly crroked. Piece of wood and hammer
 
Put the belt back on too. Any little friction will help. Might want to try jolting the wrench a little with a hammer. Like an impact if you will.

I got mine off while in the car. Just don't remember how i did it :-/

Good Luck. Glad to see its back together.
 
No leaks too. Pretty proud of myself. However, the whole front end of the car shakes now. I'm thinking mounts? I'll check it out tomorrow when i have daylight. CSVT#49 & Heywood, U're up!!

Damn you!!! I'm itching for some progress on my build.
 
Great... I don't have an impact wrench. Gonna be a ••••• to get that bolt off

If your pulley has the threaded holes for the balancer puller, you can install bolts into them and then use a pry bar wedged against the groundto stop it turning. You need to be careful to prevent the pulley from turning backwards, it can f up the timing components according to the shop manual. I did it in the car to change the main seal as I described above without too much trouble.
 
That DMD should not be like that.

I don't care what anyone says, replace that damper.

^This.

As far as loosening the center bolt, you can also put a socket on a breaker bar, wedge the breaker bar against the floor/subframe/control arm, and just barely bump the starter via the key. should break the bolt loose without any problems. just remember to barely bump the starter as you dont want to actually start the engine.
 
Damn you!!! I'm itching for some progress on my build.
:D
That DMD should not be like that.

I don't care what anyone says, replace that damper.

If your pulley has the threaded holes for the balancer puller, you can install bolts into them and then use a pry bar wedged against the groundto stop it turning. You need to be careful to prevent the pulley from turning backwards, it can f up the timing components according to the shop manual. I did it in the car to change the main seal as I described above without too much trouble.

^This.

As far as loosening the center bolt, you can also put a socket on a breaker bar, wedge the breaker bar against the floor/subframe/control arm, and just barely bump the starter via the key. should break the bolt loose without any problems. just remember to barely bump the starter as you dont want to actually start the engine.

Thanks everyone! I'll pick one up from the dealer tomorrow. $68.**+ tax. God i hope it fixes it.
 
Are you sure engine is firing on all six cylinders at tickover. You could have dodgy plug. Lead . Coil pack injrctor. Or drawng in air sonewhere
 
Thanks everyone! I'll pick one up from the dealer tomorrow. $68.**+ tax. God i hope it fixes it.

Unfortunately it will not be the DMD part your hoping for. They discontinued it and service replaced it with a standard crank pulley damper. This is partially why I purchased the Fluiddamper, but that comes at a steep price. However with the money I have in my engine it was worth it for me.

EDIT:

rent yourself one of these...

hbp01.jpg


and buy yourself one of these (corded version $149)...

41T9IMVojZL._AA160_.jpg


Or if you really want buy one of these (I got one and will never get anything else, works better than my 1000ftlb air car impact)

41jP8HvvxzL._AA160_.jpg

Ingersoll Rand W7150-K2 1/2-Inch High-Torque Impactool
 
The dealership in my area had this one actually, with the rubber. I haven't installed it yet. I'm considering other possibilities that it may not be the wheel, so i'm doing all small diagnostics first.
 
I am an idiot. I guess it happens to experienced builders as well. I was finally able to figure out the shaking issue. I did a compression test & found out that all 3 cylinders in bank 1 were 74, 112, & 109 respectively. Bank 2 were 145, 149, & 150. No problem with that one. Did a leak test & all the low comp cylinders leaked through the valve covers. I then did the 'teaspoon of oil in the cylinder' test. Compression went up on all low cylinders. So i thought to myself: "There's no way i screwed up installing the piston rings on all three cylinders on that side:shrug:." Perhaps i didn't tighten down the head gaskets properly? Nope, i followed the torque sequence to a T! Or maybe the head was screwed considering it's the same head from the previous carnage? Nah, the machine shop tested it. And there was no way i was pulling this engine again... So what then did i do wrong you're thinking? Well, i pulled my valve covers only to find out that i had somehow switched my Intake & Exhaust cams on bank 1(firewall side). Yup, i deserve a trout smack:troutslap:. This is 3L engine build number six and i still make a boo boo like that. Anyways, i'm putting it all back together now. Whew! Thank goodness i didn't have to yank this thing again. Small question tho: I've inspected the bank 1 head again to make sure the accidental switch didn't hurt anything else, like bend a valve or sumthn. No signs of such. Anyone think i should send the head back to the shop for one more inspection?
 
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