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Remoted the CSVT's oil filter

Dyoel182 said:
Nobody over on BITOG has had an issue with the kit so I'm not worried at all about it. I tightened the clamps down with a ratchet instead of a screw driver so I cant see them going anywhere unless the oil pump does something funky.
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What ever site this is, are they seeing 100pis cold oil pressure? Might want to re-consider.
 
Yea I need to ditch the worm clamps and rubber hose even though I just installed high rated hose. I do not trust those little worm clamps. Have had 2 issues that if they weren't caught could have had bad results. Brapple how much was it to do your lines?
 
todras said:
Yea I need to ditch the worm clamps and rubber hose even though I just installed high rated hose. I do not trust those little worm clamps. Have had 2 issues that if they weren't caught could have had bad results. Brapple how much was it to do your lines?
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iirc the fitting where about $30 each and then I got 10' of steel braid hose. so I am thinking like $200 or something like that. but it should be better and last longer. But I ordered everything from Summit so it should be able to find it cheaper.

I never had an issue with the rubber hose and worm clamps. well after pulling the lines a few times they started to leak alittle.
 
Livinsvt said:
What ever site this is, are they seeing 100pis cold oil pressure? Might want to re-consider.
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They're on a variety of cars, both regular and high performance, so someone is probably seeing similar pressures and not having issues.
 
Unlikely. Not many cars see 100psi cold. Worm gear clamps just are not rated to hold that pressure. Its already proven they dont hold well on Contours,what more proof do you need?
 
Livinsvt said:
Unlikely. Not many cars see 100psi cold. Worm gear clamps just are not rated to hold that pressure. Its already proven they dont hold well on Contours,what more proof do you need?
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Proof of my own I guess. The dayco hoses wont even twist on the barb without the clamp so I dont think they'll be going anywhere with the clamps on and tightened down with a ratchet. I'll have to ask over on BITOG if anyone else is driving a Contour. Keep in mind I'm in Texas so my cold pressure should be lower since my oil get cold enough to turn to mollasses like your northern oil.
 
My oil pressure sending unit was originally plumbed with rubber hose, barb fittings, and worm clamps. I thought one of the fittings were leaking from the threads, but no it was just the clamp not being able to hold it tight. Also, worm clamps dont clamp a perfect circle under a certain radial dimension because the back side of the screw area is flat :blackeye:.

I took all the lines out and the pressure sending unit so I wouldn't have to worry about it.

Good luck with your venture.
 
Thanks. I keep an eye out for drips that arent from my damaged oil drain plug and may look into some band clamps if I think better holding force is needed.
 
I currently have my oil pressure sending unit plumbed with rubber hose, barbed fittings, and worm clamps as well, and I live where it gets below zero in winter, and I've never had a hint of leak. The gauge pegs out over 100 and doesn't move for a while, so it's capable of holding considerable pressure, and it's been trouble-free (knock on wood) for well over a year. I will, however, be redoing the line with a stainless braided one at the upcoming oil change for peace of mind due to driving the car harder lately.
 
I have my oil pressure sender on the remote filter body (see first post in this thread), my gauge pegs at 150 psi, and it holds the highest reading. I've seen 100psi on a winter cold start with an overnight outside soak near 0F. Cold idle psi is 90 to 100, 150psi driving away very gently. Am glad I did braided lines with Aeroquip compression style AN hose ends.

This knowledge also causes me to pay attention to the burst pressure rating on oil filters.
 
See barbed fittings are not meant to use hose clamps, the barb is suppose to be able to hold it as is. If you have to clamp it to get it to stay, than your exceeding the capacity of the fitting and or hose. What I have seen is the high pressure rubber hose you can buy goes on a little to easy onto the brass style barbed fitting, thus not being tight enough. Aeroquip and Earls socketless hose, is a push on style barbed fittings. They require a lot of effort and a lube to get them to fit. Theres not pulling them off. If your gonna do it, budget it right the first time.

An fittings either socketless barbed or stainless braided style.
 
I actually just never tried running it without clamps. It's very likely it would hold fine without them, as the hose was very difficult to put on them. It was really just an afterthought precaution to me. That said, I completely agree that braided line and AN fittings are a better practice and have been planning to switch since before my last oil change, when I just didn't have the time to pull the serp. belt, AC compressor, etc. and redo it at the time.
 
Dont see the reason to pull any of that. Bumper only mount it on the drivers side.

The other thing with worm clamps is you try to tighten the hell out of them and than they cut into the hose, also causing them to leak or burst later.
 
My need to pull those arises from the fact that is where I tapped into the oil gallery. I need to pull the compressor down to replace the fittings and hose. I don't have the remote filter mount, I should have clarified that.

And it's funny you mention the clamp cutting into the hose. I cringed at an earlier post about using a ratchet to tighten down a worm clamp and was about to post this same reprimand, but so many posts had been made after that statement that I decided to let it go.
 
rollinstylee said:
And it's funny you mention the clamp cutting into the hose. I cringed at an earlier post about using a ratchet to tighten down a worm clamp and was about to post this same reprimand, but so many posts had been made after that statement that I decided to let it go.
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Oh dont worry about damage on my hoses. I didnt go nuts on them but I got them tighter than a screw driver could. I used to see horrible damage on hoses from clamps when I worked at autozone though and did a lot of cringing myself.
 
Dyoel182 said:
Oh dont worry about damage on my hoses. I didnt go nuts on them but I got them tighter than a screw driver could. I used to see horrible damage on hoses from clamps when I worked at autozone though and did a lot of cringing myself.
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Braided steel line is just for a 'bling' factor, in my opinion, on these cars. Rubber hoses that are spec'd to burst pressures of 300psi and higher is more then enough of a safety factor. The highest pressure I've seen on my car (when I drove it in the winter) was 165psi and that was from sitting for a day and a half at -15degF (ambient, colder with wind chills) and lower. So I'm more then confident that a 300psi rated rubber hose is more then sufficient. However barb fittings with worm clamps will not be, hence the hydraulic crimp fittings that I will be using.
 
Well I should never see pressures like that because of my climate so I'm not entirely worried about it like I said before. I couldnt pull the hose off the barb once I pushed it on and that eased my mind about the tight fit I was hoping for and the BITOG guys said they had on theirs.
 
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