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Remoted the CSVT's oil filter

It can use just about any filter you want. It comes with several adapters both standard and metric threading for almost any car and a filter adapter to make the filter adapter fit on anything.
 
CSVT#49 said:
So I dug this up to ask a few questions...

I've been looking at relocating my oil filter and the parts listed in this thread are totaling up to around $180... whats wrong with the $30.95 Summit Racing relocation kit?

Also I'd like to ditch that sandwich oil cooler and install a FMOC. I've got a B&M super cooler I'd like to use instead. Is this difficult to do? I haven't really looked over the coolant lines, but I'd have to imagine it would be pretty easy to just block off the end points or completely bypass.
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The Summit kit hoses are 3/8" ID, my -10 AN hoses are 5/8" ID. The Summit kit uses 3/8" pipe thread fittings which can be restrictive, my system uses all large bore, radiused AN port fittings. Hey, it's your motor...

I've seen oil pressure peak at 150 psi after a cold-soak winter start and gentle drive-away. The -10 lines and hoses I used are rated to >300 psi burst. Don't know what those Summit rubber hoses are rated to...

On the oil cooler, let me summarize what I've gone through the past year to get the engine oil temps up to where I'd like to see them. I left the OEM water/oil cooler in place. I installed good, electronic full sweep oil temp, oil pressure, and coolant temp gauges and have since noticed low oil temps. On the highway in cool weather, my oil rarely went over 165F, and I like to see oil hit over 200F so the water and other corrosive volatiles can leave. In order to increase the oil temps, I have:

1. Changed coolant thermostats several times to no avail, I now run the 3.0L Duratec Taurus stat, which is a bit higher temp then the SVT stat. My coolant temps are fine, always have been, was just eliminating a potential variable - didn't change anything, oil still cold.
2. I have insulated the oil lines behind the radiator with Earls fire sleeve - helped a little.
3. I have insulated and baffled the remote oil filter because I discovered that cool air flowing over it at highway speed was over-cooling the oil - this helped some.
4. Blocked off much of the lower grill opening in the bumper cover - helped a lot.

After all this, I am finally seeing oil temps run at ~200F or more on the highway in cooler weather.

If your car is a DD, I really would try to discourage you from adding extra oil cooling. In my opinion, this engine already has plenty of oil cooling. The cooling system capacity on the SVT engine appears to be perfectly adequate to go out and run road courses in hot weather, and I do have some experience designing cooling systems for high output road course cars, see my sig. If you're intent on running a FMOC, you must run a thermostatic bypass on it, or you will shorten the engine life.

Gary M.
 
gmorrell said:
If your car is a DD, I really would try to discourage you from adding extra oil cooling. In my opinion, this engine already has plenty of oil cooling. The cooling system capacity on the SVT engine appears to be perfectly adequate to go out and run road courses in hot weather, and I do have some experience designing cooling systems for high output road course cars, see my sig. If you're intent on running a FMOC, you must run a thermostatic bypass on it, or you will shorten the engine life.
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It's not my DD although it wouldn't be a big deal if it was... What I planned to do was remove the coolant sandwich cooler and then run a line to the remote filter, which would then lead to a thermo by-pass valve, which would be set to 190 +/-10degF under these temps it would run the oil back to the block, over it would send it running through the FMOC.
 
Finally went out to take pics.

DSCF1055.jpg

Here is the new filter spot. The hoses come up the radiator shroud and over with the coolant reservoir hoses.
Ignore the oil filter though. I thought I had grabbed one of my MC filters but had grabbed the box with an O'Reillys brand purolator.

DSCF1056.jpg

And here is the remote oil drain. It comes up the firewall and the included cig lighter pump hooks right up.
 
How long have you been running that kit? Have you had any issues with those hoses leaking or blowing off? Also isn't there a bracket to hold the filter in place? It looks like you just have it sitting there.

Reason I ask is because my brother had a remote mount kit with regular hoses like that and worm clamps and he actually had a hose blow off on his integra when he was driving back to his house. Luckly he had an oil pressure gauge and saw the pressure drop and avoided any damage. I'm a little hesitant to use the supplied barb fittings and clamps. I might have to splurge for the high end adaptors just to ensure a tight connection.
 
Its been about 2 weeks on the kit and I dont have a single leak. Yes there are adapters for the filter to slide in but it doesnt budge where its at right now so I havent broken out the drill to mount it. Honestly the only way I see the hoses coming off is if something is tugging on them. I even had trouble tugging them off the barbs without the clamps when I was seeing how long the hoses were. Tightened down with a ratchet the hose wont even spin a little when you twist it.
 
That hose looks like Dayco/Eastman low pressure hydraulic hose, it should be rated to 300 psi working. Used on a properly sized barb fitting and clamped, it should not blow off to it's working pressure.
 
The hoses do say Dayco and 300psi all up and down them so I havent given it a second thought after routing them away from heat as best I could.
 
I've got access to all of the right tools to make my own hoses anyway. I might just buy hydraulic fittings and take them into work to make my hoses. That way I don't have to screw around with barb fittings and hose clamps.
 
Suit yourself. Just remember to make it so you can leave the hoses disconnected when you install the filter adapter because there is barely enough room for hands let alone two hoses in your way while you're trying to spin it.
 
CSVT#49 said:
How long have you been running that kit? Have you had any issues with those hoses leaking or blowing off? Also isn't there a bracket to hold the filter in place? It looks like you just have it sitting there.

Reason I ask is because my brother had a remote mount kit with regular hoses like that and worm clamps and he actually had a hose blow off on his integra when he was driving back to his house. Luckly he had an oil pressure gauge and saw the pressure drop and avoided any damage. I'm a little hesitant to use the supplied barb fittings and clamps. I might have to splurge for the high end adaptors just to ensure a tight connection.
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Pud had the hoses blow on his first 3.0L. He said he shut it down ASAP when he saw the engine pressure drop, and he blames that for his first engine dying.
 
Nobody over on BITOG has had an issue with the kit so I'm not worried at all about it. I tightened the clamps down with a ratchet instead of a screw driver so I cant see them going anywhere unless the oil pump does something funky.
 
So I just received the kit today. I'll start my own thread in a few. In that thread I go over everything along with photographs of my custom hoses.
 
SVT#4967 said:
when I was putting my kit together I was talking to ANPlumbing.com and was told I should be using -10 hose which is 1/2 ID iirc.
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Just FYI... dash size hoses are the number of 16th's in the diameter, so a -10, as mentioned above, is 10/16" or 5/8".
 
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