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Oil Filter and Oil Quality

jumijc

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
May 26, 2009
Messages
559
Location
Birmingham, AL
So, This time I am checking to see what is the best way to take car of my engine and not blow it up or dawg it or anything, and I am looking into getting a better quality oil and see if it makes any difference.

Normal Treatment

Oil Filter:
Motorcraft FL-820-S
Oil: Super Tech 5W-30 Full Synthetic High Mileage

Better Quality

Oil Filter: Fram Extended Guard XG2
Oil: Castrol GTX 5W-30 Full Synthetic High Mileage

Best Quality

Oil Filter: Mobil 1 M1210
Oil: Mobil 1 5W-30 Fully Synthetic High Mileage



I have not used any of these yet, except for the Normal one I have been using and I bet everyone else has, would using a better quality one be better? or would it be just overkill for the CSVT? Has anyone tested this already?
In the next couple of weeks I will start with the Mobil 1 and see what happens.

Please don't bash me if this has been posted already and if it is not in the right section but I did not see another post of this anywhere else.
 
I would rate fram as your worst choice. I have a cut out of a fram filter at home.......everything is a much lower quality than other top brands. I would add wix (NAPA filters are made by wix) to your list as well. Personally I am using a K&N filter, my next change I will probably go with an Amsoil filter which I believe is made by donaldson.
 
Fram is definitely the worst of those filters. The MC oil filter is one of the best bargains on the market because its a top quality filter at a budget price. Now if you're going to extended drains (like 10,000 miles instead of 5,000) maybe look into the Mobil 1 filter or change out the MC halfway through.

As far as oil goes what are you currently using and what dont you like about it? The main reason to go to a synthetic is if you're doing extended drain interval or really driving the car hard for extended periods of time.
 
So, This time I am checking to see what is the best way to take car of my engine and not blow it up or dawg it or anything, and I am looking into getting a better quality oil and see if it makes any difference.

Normal Treatment

Oil Filter: Motorcraft FL-820-S
Oil: Super Tech 5W-30 Full Synthetic High Mileage

Better Quality

Oil Filter: Fram Extended Guard XG2
Oil: Castrol GTX 5W-30 Full Synthetic High Mileage

Best Quality

Oil Filter: Mobil 1 M1210
Oil: Mobil 1 5W-30 Fully Synthetic High Mileage



I have not used any of these yet, except for the Normal one I have been using and I bet everyone else has, would using a better quality one be better? or would it be just overkill for the CSVT? Has anyone tested this already?
In the next couple of weeks I will start with the Mobil 1 and see what happens.

Please don't bash me if this has been posted already and if it is not in the right section but I did not see another post of this anywhere else.

Ok, I'm not sure where you got this info but you honestly need to stop and actually do some research. First off, Fram anything is trash. I'd rather re-use an old Wix filter than put a new Fram in my car. Second, you are listing your best oil as Mobil 1 high mileage? Um... ok why? Is this based on any empirical evidence or just your opinion? Third... have you ever heard of these two companies called Amsoil or Royal Purple?

The only thing I agree on is the Super Tech full synthetic from Wal-Mart. Love the stuff. Independently tested and proven to be a high quality synthetic. Not the best in the world but completely fine for a driver with regular 3k oil changes. I use it in everything I own including my built Cobra motor and no issues.

MY order would be and this is from my opinion, other opinions, actual viscosity tests/charts/ratings and research. All oils listed here are synthetics btw.

Good:
Filter=WIX
Oil=SuperTech

Better
Filter=WIX
Oil=Royal Purple

Best
Filter=WIX(notice the trend)
Oil=Amsoil

I personally see no reason to buy Mobil 1 ever. Super Tech is nearly as good and half the price. Royal Purple is only marginally more expensive. Amsoil is up top in my book but your mileage may vary. It really isn't that much more either but most places usually don't stock it many times people have to get it shipped to them which jacks the price up. Honestly, with Super Tech being $17 for a 5qt jug you really can't beat it.

For those that can't find a filter that actually says "WIX", the Napa filter is a rebadged WIX. If you can't find a WIX for whatever reason, Purolator, Motorcraft or Mobil 1 are all good substitutions. WIX is a little pricier but WELL worth it. I'm always baffled when people won't spend an extra $5 every 3k to ensure they have a top quality filter. Although the Motorcraft filter is a very good bang for the buck as mentioned in a previous post. NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER put a Fram product in your car, period, end of story. I've seen multiple documented cases where their filters have come apart and ruined motors. And they are among the worst at actual filtration when they "work" as advertised.
 
Since I've only had my car a few weeks, I've only done one oil change.

I bought 6 quarts of Motorcraft 5w-30 Synthetic and a Motorcraft filter. I couldn't pass it up for the price. Motorcraft synthetic was only about $2.50 per quart at Wal-Mart. :cool:

I was going to use Mobile 1 oil and filter. By using the Ford products instead I was able to save over $15.
 
The Ford blend is actually a very good oil, just not a full syn. Still, for regular 3k changes it is more than fine. Also, I'd run 6.5 qts to help out with the oil starvation issue our motors have as much as possible. I do 6.5 every change and keep an eye on the dipstick. I even marked it witha scribe so I know where 6.5 is lol.
 
Thanks guys, I just listed them as price-wise. I am sure glad I didn't do any testing yet to it.
Based on ScottyDsntKnow's post, I will switch to the WIX and Amsoil and see how it does. I rather be dumb for a minute than be dumb my whole life. Thanks for the fast reply too.

I am assuming it is

Oil Filter: WIX# 51372

getimage.php



Oil: SAE5W-30 XL Synthetic Motor Oil

xlf.jpg



Thanks again guys!!!
 
As I said, that is going way overboard for a daily driver IMO. If you stick with the SuperTech full syn and a Napa/WIX filter (can't imagine you don't have a local Napa) you will be just fine and dandy. The only people who will really benefit from stuff like Amsoil are the guys running at the track. But it is your money and if you are super anal retentive and want the best of the best then Amsoil is the way to go. Its just stupid expensive for oil changes lol. I put 6.5 qts of SuperTech in and combined with the filter that runs a tad over $30.
 
I used to run full synth with a motorcraft filter.

now i run motorcraft synth blend with a motorcraft filter. and change it 5 months/ 5000 miles. you will have no problems with that.

motorcraft filter = purolator = good
wix is my second choice.

i run purolator or wix on my family's other 3 cars. right now i have a stock of purolator filters.

not only are Fram oil filters horrible at filtering, but are know to ''blow off" the car. making you lose your oil and your motor.
 
I did a lot of searching about Oil and I came to the consensus that about half of community runs 6 qts, and the other half runs 6.5.

I have an extra quart of Castrol GTX 5w-30 in the garage. Would I be ok if I put in a half of that? Is it ok to mix in a half quart of dino oil? :shrug:
 
I did a lot of searching about Oil and I came to the consensus that about half of community runs 6 qts, and the other half runs 6.5.

I have an extra quart of Castrol GTX 5w-30 in the garage. Would I be ok if I put in a half of that? Is it ok to mix in a half quart of dino oil? :shrug:

yes, you can mix synth and dino oil. nothing bad will happen. remember that synth blends are mostly dino with some synth added to them.

I also run 6.5 quarts. I have never run into any problems. IIRC Rouch said that it was safe to run 6.5 quarts back when they prepared the Bondurant SVT Contours.
 
Since were talking about this kinda stuff, what should I do about the oil in my 3L. It has about 2k on it and its been sitting for months now without being driven. Its 10w-30 RP with a motorcraft filter, should I change it when I take it out in April?
 
I can't help but jump in here on the topic of oil & oil filter quality. There is a lot of misconception expressed here.

The two big factors in the quality of oil is the base stock and the additive package. Base stocks are labeled according to their nature.

Group I is petroleum that has only undergone fractional distillation to end up with molecule size of a certain range so the oil has the right viscosity (thickness). Very little of this is used today to make motor oil.

Group II has had additional processing to remove more impurities and perhaps some larger molecules cracked down to smaller sizes. It tends to be more uniform than Group I. There is also Group II+ that goes through a hydrowash process to gain still more uniformity and remove impurities. Group II+ is water clear and is sometimes called "pure base" or even "isosyn base". It was developed by Chevron and used by Pennzoil and others. Much of today's engine oil base stocks are mostly Group II or Group II+.

Group III continues the same general process as Group II+, but to a much higher level. Most of today's "synthetic" oils are Group III based. As to if it really is synthetic or not depends on how you define "synthetic". There was a disagreement between Mobil and Castrol as to is Group III really was synthetic or not. It was settled by some sort of petroleum advertising committee. In the US, Group III can be called synthetic. In much of the reast of the world it cannot.

Group IV is a specific chemical that is made synthetically. I can never get the name straight, but it is either PAO or POA.

Group V is a sort of left over category. If it is synthetic and not Group IV, it is Group V. These are usually Esters.

Mobil 1 is mostly Group IV.

Red Line is mostly Group V.

Most of Amsoil's product line is Group IV although at least one of them is Group III.

Most of Valvoline Synthetic is Group III.

Castrol Syntec is Group III.

Castrol Edge is mostly Group IV (interesting, since Castrol claims their Syntec is better than Mobil 1).

Pennzoil Synthetic is Group III although when Pennzoil Platinum was first introduced it was a new molecule that was very nearly the same as Group IV, but since it wasn't Group IV is was actually categorized as Group V. It was only out a few months before it was switched to Group III. Prior Pennzoil Synthetic was Group IV.

Wal Mart's house brand synthetic is Group III.

Enough of the base stocks.

The additive package needs to be tailored to each oil depending on the base stock. The additive package adds detergents, dispersant, pour point depressants, viscosity index improvers and more, depending on the needs.

Depending on where the base stock came from, the collection of molecules that make it up are a bit different. Their ability to dissolve solids (such as carbon) and their ability to mix as well as how well they pour at cold temperatures and even how much they thin out as they get hot varies considerably. The additive package tries to compensate for all that as much as possible. With the right additive package, even Group I base stocks can perform as well as an average Group II.

All the individual groups have their own advantages and disadvantages. Overall, the one with the greatest temperature range is Group IV. It will handle extreme heat or cold better than any of the others.

Group III is much cheaper to produce, and with the right additive package it will perform nearly (but not quite) as well as Group IV.

Back to the non-synthetics. Most are Group II or Group II+. Today's conventional oils well perform very nearly as well as today's synthetic oils. Over the last few decades, the gap in performance between synthetic and non-synthetic has narrowed greatly. They are driven to it by the American Petroleum Institute's (API) ever tightening specifications. The current one is API SM. They will not handle the extreme temperatures as well and they will not hold up in use as long. Changed at the right frequency and away from extreme temperatures, they will keep and engine just as clean and prevent just as much wear as synthetic. Today's oils will easily go 5,000 miles between oil changes and properly maintained engines will run easily past 200,000 miles.

So in summary, today's non-synthetics and synthetics greatly exceed the need. It doesn't really matter which one is best, they all exceed the need.

In my opinion, Mobil 1 is the best, but I buy what is on sale.

Now on to filters. Fram is very poorly made. Take one apart and compare it to any other filter on the market and you will probably never use one again. However, it probably marginally meets the need at least most of the time.

Some of the more expensive Frams are reasonably good filters, but I still avoid them.

The other big filter maker in the US at this time is Purolator. Beside their own brands, they make filters for Bosch and Motorcraft and probably others. The standard Purolator is much better made than Fram. Purolator also makes the Pure One, which is an exceptional filter and a great value. Most Bosch filters are nearly the same as Pur One filters. Although Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator, they are different than those with the Purolator label. Motorcraft tends to use better filter media. They are probably close to but not quite as good as a Pure One.

Champion Laboratories makes filters for many other labels, including STP. I don't very often see it under their own name. Their run of the mill filter is similar to Purolator. I don't like them quite as well, but they are still head and shoulders above the standard Fram. Champion also makes premium filters for Mobil (Mobil 1), K&N, and Castrol (Castrol Edge). These are all excellent filters, but I agree with others that have said that they at $6.00 filters in $12.00 boxes. They are not that much different from Pure One or Bosch.

I hope this helps.
 
I like this guy!!!! :laugh:

i like this guy too!! i have royal purple in both my cars. it is the best oil, in my opinion, that you can put into your car, or any car, fully synthetic. it is expensive but i promise you will love it. i can get it cheaper because i know a guy who wholesales it. my mazda rips, with royal purple in it, not to mention my svt does as well:laugh: i will not change oils, i don't care how expensive it can get.
 
Royal Purple was taken to the woodshed a couple of years back for exaggerated advertising claims. I understand that it is Group IV, which puts it on a par with Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, and the higher grades of Amsoil. It really isn't any better.
 
Agreed on the exaggerated claims on RP's part. I remember on one HP TV when they replaced the regular oil/trans fluid/gear fluid in a LS1 Camaro with RP stuff and claimed 8rwhp gain. I rofl'd. Regardless it is still a superior oil and IMO, slightly better than Mobil 1 from what I've seen anyway. Mobil 1 is a great oil though, just overpriced as hell. I still say if you are tracking your car or just a nazi about always having the best, Amsoil is the way to go. However, you are right about just about any oil you can get being fine. For 99% of vehicles out there anyway. My father in law changes his oil with $8/gal jugs of Advance Auto Parts brand dino oil with OEM Honda filters and never a problem lol.

Still say you are wasting your money on a DD if you're paying the $6/qt prices of some of these brands though. Absolutely ludicrous. I used to use Mobil 1 when I could get a 5qt jug at Wal-Mart for $20 back in 2005. Now it's like $32+... wtf?
 
I work at advance auto and we regularly have sales such as,
5qts Mobil 1 extended performance + a mobil 1 filter for $30.
Same goes for Casterol Edge + a k&N filter..

We also have sales on convetional oil, $15 for 5qts and a standard filter.

I put less than 5,000 miles a year on my SVT and only change my oil once a year with mobil 1 extended performance (clamed to last 15,000 miles)..

I dont understand why someone would choose to pay $15 for cheaper, less quality, and protective oil/filter and do the job twice a year ($30 a year).. when they could just spend the $30 at once and get much better oil/filter and only do the job once a year?:shrug:
 
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