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My 86...

No they might have to clean up your cylinders or something. The shop might also be able to get a better deal if they are willing.
 
Do it right the first time Eric, clean that block the right way, that price sounds pretty decent to me from what I remember that stuff costing and as far as the rings/bearings go, well, that goes without saying, leave nothing weak or to chance, not worth it!
 
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A winning combo if you ask me!
 
Yeah I am going to have to get that JDM front bumper. I took off mine, fenders and brackets so I can paint and clean. Damn front bumper weighs like fiddy billion tonnes. Yeah, British tonnes.
 
Took my stroker to the machine shop today. Guy said it doesn't look/feel like it has much of a ridge and the cross hatch is still visible in all cylinders. Great sign it'll just need a hone instead of bore. I already have a set of STD pistons, so no bore is good with me. I'll be on holiday next week, so I should be getting the bottom end back after that. Hopefully Josh will be done with the head, but no rush there either lol.

I have set my new goal of a finished engine for 8-6 day 2012, which is one year away. Hell I got it legal and driveable in a year, surely I can finish the motor in a new, even with a baby Dude. That means engine running and dyno tuned, insurance back on, and Deal's Gap shook down.
 
Ready in time for the 10th annual run, you have to be there with the car Eric, your 1/3 of the original crew who got this all going!
 
Oh yeah it'll be good to go then! I learned at the last run that I need 2 things. First is more power. I know upgrade yourself first, but come on 63hp?! When the old motor was singing, I found the limit of the car was not the tires, chassis, suspension, or even me. The weak point was my skinny ass falling out of the seat around the corners lol. So I need a seat and hotness harness.
 
My 86 needs to be bored. :cry: That's another hundred bucks work and a new set of pistons. I guess it's a good thing since the standard pistons I already have don't look like they came from a real blue top GTS as I was told. The guy at the machine shop showed me where the cylinders have rust pits, and he said he wished it was worse so there would be no option but to bore. He said some of his customers would run it as-is, whereas I want the security of knowing I won't loose compression or have uneven compression because I want to save some bucks. He also said my crankshaft was at the bottom of the good range, which is ok. They'll put it together and measure the tolerances. I would rather them do all this work instead if me just throwing it together. I don't want any slack when I hit an apex at 7,000rpm full throttle.

But I did finally get my big ass oil cooler. It's the factory RX7 turbo oil cooler. It has a built-in thermostat to keep the oil at the right temp. I just gotta put everything together so I can measure for hoses.
 
Dropped off the new pistons at the machine shop yesterday. Let's run down the parts on my hybrid Frankenmotor:
1985 Corolla GTS head
1989 MR2 n/a pistons
1994 Corolla block, rods, crank
1986 Corolla SR5 flywheel, transmission
1987 Corolla GTS bellhousing
1986 Porsche 944 timing belt
1979 Cressida shift knob - can't forget that!!
 
chattavegasse said:
dropped off the new pistons at the machine shop yesterday. Let's run down the parts on my hybrid frankenmotor:
1985 corolla gts head
1989 mr2 n/a pistons
1994 corolla block, rods, crank
1986 corolla sr5 flywheel, transmission
1987 corolla gts bellhousing
1986 porsche 944 timing belt
1979 cressida shift knob - can't forget that!!
Click to expand...

frankenstein!
 
I won't get to start on it until Wednesday next. I picked up the rest of the stuff today. $325 for cleaning the block, bored .020 over, decked and checked, polished crank and balanced, turned flywheel, swapped pistons onto rods, and a new set of bearings.
 
I didn't accomplish as much as I wanted today. I did get the motor set up on the stand and mocked up the mounts and accessories. I also measured for new motor mount bolts, since the original bolts are different lengths than needed with different mounts and brackets being used. $17 for 10 hardened bolts, but I know they go all the way into the block instead if being too short/long.

To prep the block for paint:
Strip with aircraft remover
Wash with water
Clean (and dry) with brake cleaner
Lube with WD40 - rust inhibiter since I didn't have any primer wtf
imag0213.jpg
 
WD 40 isn't a really good rust inhibitor. If you have some engine assembly lube wipe down you machined surfaces with that. Oil will work as well.
 
I have tons of both. WD40 will do for a day or two, but you're right it's not ideal. It gets in the nooks and crannies best though! Once I get the block painted, I will cover the machine surfaces with assembly lube since it wipes clean easier than oil. Josh has been sending me pics of the head porting process. She's gonna gulp and blow great!
 
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