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Just came back from the strip...

Well to add to the personal choice thing, I'm building a ported 3L, it may make less power, but if my insurance company ever got a look under the hood and saw 3.0L, instead of the actual engine the car came with, I bet I'd pay a lot more to insure it, probably exceeding the actual value of the car within a year. You obviously like to drag, and it's cool that you're doing so well (I'd love to see the look on some of those guys you're beatings faces) but not all of us drag, and I certainly don't need the extra power offered by the full 3L. So while you may think it's stupid to go ported, I think it's stupid to go full 3L, but that's just my opinion. I think it's cool that we actually have options on the engine swap, and that there are a couple different builds for different purposes, so please stop knocking ported 3L's like it's a fact that they're worthless, not everyone is you.
 
DanMyers said:
Well to add to the personal choice thing, I'm building a ported 3L, it may make less power, but if my insurance company ever got a look under the hood and saw 3.0L, instead of the actual engine the car came with, I bet I'd pay a lot more to insure it, probably exceeding the actual value of the car within a year. You obviously like to drag, and it's cool that you're doing so well (I'd love to see the look on some of those guys you're beatings faces) but not all of us drag, and I certainly don't need the extra power offered by the full 3L. So while you may think it's stupid to go ported, I think it's stupid to go full 3L, but that's just my opinion. I think it's cool that we actually have options on the engine swap, and that there are a couple different builds for different purposes, so please stop knocking ported 3L's like it's a fact that they're worthless, not everyone is you.
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If you don't need the extra horsepower provided by a full 3.0, why do you need the extra horsepower provided by a 3.0 at all? And what kind of insurance company do you have that checks out your car mechanically? I've never had an issue with my insurance company caring about my modifications, and I haven't heard of anyone here having a problem either. If they really made a big deal out of it, I'd drop 'em and find someone more reasonable.
 
I'm going 3L because my car now has 118K, even though it runs extremely well, eventually, the motor will die, and replacing it with another 2.5 isn't worth it. And it was a hypothetical situation, about a year and a half ago, I hit a deer, it ruined the fenders, hood, HLs, and the core support, so when I was getting it appraised by the adjuster, he opened the hood. I'm not saying every adjuster will know the difference, most more than likely don't, but in the off chance that happened, I don't think they'd be too happy with a different engine in the car, and especially not a bigger one.
 
PurpleMystique said:
If you don't need the extra horsepower provided by a full 3.0, why do you need the extra horsepower provided by a 3.0 at all? And what kind of insurance company do you have that checks out your car mechanically? I've never had an issue with my insurance company caring about my modifications, and I haven't heard of anyone here having a problem either. If they really made a big deal out of it, I'd drop 'em and find someone more reasonable.
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Good points :). Also all you would really have to say to the insurance company is you changed the UIM if they asked. But seeing as to how you don't have a Honda I wouldn't worry about the insurance company.

Oh I would say Nima does more auto-crossing than drag racing.

Aaron
 
DanMyers said:
I'm going 3L because my car now has 118K, even though it runs extremely well, eventually, the motor will die, and replacing it with another 2.5 isn't worth it. And it was a hypothetical situation, about a year and a half ago, I hit a deer, it ruined the fenders, hood, HLs, and the core support, so when I was getting it appraised by the adjuster, he opened the hood. I'm not saying every adjuster will know the difference, most more than likely don't, but in the off chance that happened, I don't think they'd be too happy with a different engine in the car, and especially not a bigger one.
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So are you planning to use your non-SVT UIM or are you actually going to pay $200+ for an SVT UIM?
 
SVT SNOB said:
Going by your sig it appears you have a split port whihc means you cna't use the Escape or ST220 UIM. Your best be would be to get the metal split port UIM from the earlier 3L's.

Aaron
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I have a 2002 taurus engine oval port but I have Joey oval port head to split port uim manifold conversion. I read that the escape is the closes to the st200 here in the states. I have the taurus uim but I read that it isn't that good.
 
SLEEPERTOUR said:
I have a 2002 taurus engine oval port but I have Joey oval port head to split port uim manifold conversion. I read that the escape is the closes to the st200 here in the states. I have the taurus uim but I read that it isn't that good.
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Oh ok, I didn't know you had the NPG LIM :eek:, Yes the Escape UIM is better than the Taurus one in comparison to being close to the ST220UIM.

Aaron
 
I might have to try the taurus one until I can find a escape one that don't cost and arm and a leg. I which I had started off with the escape motor in the first place then I could of same myself the hassle.
 
Well I'm going SVT TB, and IMs, which isn't as bad because at least it still looks the same, could just tell them I powdercoated it or painted it black.


EDIT: Also, I have been checking car-part.com regularly, and can usually find a UIM for about $45.
 
DanMyers said:
Well I'm going SVT TB, and IMs, which isn't as bad because at least it still looks the same, could just tell them I powdercoated it or painted it black.


EDIT: Also, I have been checking car-part.com regularly, and can usually find a UIM for about $45.
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Ha - don't tell that to the guy that bought mine for $240. It seems that you're incurring a lot of additional work and cost for a loss of power, all to protect yourself from a hypothetical situation that is almost guaranteed not to happen, and even if it were to happen, almost nothing bad could come of it.
 
PurpleMystique said:
Ha - don't tell that to the guy that bought mine for $240. It seems that you're incurring a lot of additional work and cost for a loss of power, all to protect yourself from a hypothetical situation that is almost guaranteed not to happen, and even if it were to happen, almost nothing bad could come of it.
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A reasonable assumption, however, if it ever did happen, I would not be happy, and also, I'm not afraid of some simple porting, but I wouldn't even know where to start brazing a fuel line. I haven't really read up on full 3Ls as much as ported ones, would a return system be what I would need (it's what I have), or simply add more work for me? Also, not that anyone said anything, but just to clarify, when I said full 3L's were stupid, I did not mean that literally, simply trying to illustrate my point, but definitely could have been worded better.
 
DanMyers said:
A reasonable assumption, however, if it ever did happen, I would not be happy, and also, I'm not afraid of some simple porting, but I wouldn't even know where to start brazing a fuel line. I haven't really read up on full 3Ls as much as ported ones, would a return system be what I would need (it's what I have), or simply add more work for me? Also, not that anyone said anything, but just to clarify, when I said full 3L's were stupid, I did not mean that literally, simply trying to illustrate my point, but definitely could have been worded better.
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Is your car return or returnless style fuel system?
 
DanMyers said:
A reasonable assumption, however, if it ever did happen, I would not be happy, and also, I'm not afraid of some simple porting, but I wouldn't even know where to start brazing a fuel line. I haven't really read up on full 3Ls as much as ported ones, would a return system be what I would need (it's what I have), or simply add more work for me? Also, not that anyone said anything, but just to clarify, when I said full 3L's were stupid, I did not mean that literally, simply trying to illustrate my point, but definitely could have been worded better.
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If you have a returnless fuel system, you can get a fuel rail mod from NPG. The stock Taurus fuel rail fits turned around backwards (but looks a bit weird), and the '02 Escape fuel rails fits perfectly.
 
DanMyers said:
it's a return style.
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Then you could use a fuel rail from a 01 to 02 escape fuel rail and buy the fuel conversion kit from NPG and dodge all the welding. That's the route I went. If you get a fuel rail from I beleive 03 or newer escape it has the electrical fuel regulator. CHIME in guys if i'm wrong!
 
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