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Interest Check: Subframe Connector

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yeah, this time im going to look at possibly notching that section back there. it was banging on my own True Bends exhaust (2.5) too but only when i would go through a corner at a certain angle. you dont want to know what and how much $ i went through to discover this! :help:

i just wrapped some radiator hose around the sfc at that spot. its been holding just fine since (about 5 years) and rests perfectly between the exhaust and the sfc.

ill discuss sending them in 4 pieces with john but i think he'll advise against it even though it would be less work for him. reason is, you need to be careful when lining the pieces up so they remain nice and straight/level while youre welding. joe blow welding shop might not put the effort into it, and might want to charge you more for it. although the package is LONG, its skinny, so the shipping goes mostly off of weight, which isnt bad. ill be at his house today wrenching on my contour so ill report back our discussion.
 
ok, we've hit at least 15 buyers so far. im going to have John call the steel supply place this week to check on how much the steel is; see if it went up at all. belive me, we'd really like to keep it at the same price if we can. they also have a minimum order for free delivery (which is a LOT of steel) so we need to check on that too. but i think 15 is enough. and we dont mind making extras to keep on hand either, though we'll have to charge more for them (like $30).

ill either post a new GB thread or modify this one within a few days and get the ball rolling...
 
SJon85 said:
I should be interested in a set of the extras in a couple months
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just PM me whenever youre ready. we will probably still have some left over.

we plan to make some extras. they are going to cost a little more as an incentive for people to get in on the GB, plus we have to sit on the stuff for who knows how long..
 
biminiLX said:
I have these guys and they are a VERY nice improvement, I recommend it and would definitely do it over.
Tightens the car up nicely and finally gives a place to jack our cars!
A couple notes:
1) Prep, primer and paint them before you take them to the installer. They can wire brush the paint off where they need to weld and then you should respray over the welds as they will rust. Powdercoat would be great but my installer hated grinding off the PC for welding on my Cobras SFCs so I just painted these well.
2) DRIVE-ON LIFT ONLY as mentioned
3) the drivers rear most attachment gets REALLY close to the exhaust bend around the gas tank and my stock exhaust touched. Just an FYI for those with 2.5" aftermarket exhaust. If I were doing it over, I would have notched that part and rewelded but I redid the exhaust anyway and it clears fine now.

-J
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I'm going to chime in also. ^What biminiLX said!
This is one of the best things I have done to my car. If for no other reason, it makes jacking it up so much easier!

I believed Steve (svt4stv) said he's scraped on speed bumps, I have also. I'd rather the subframe connectors than my exhaust. My car is lowered.

I used a degreaser on mine, primed them three times and then painted, a few coats, with a high temp. paint.

Both of my SVT's have SFC's from Steve.

Do it! :)
 
thank you luca :)


not sure if i mentioned this in this thread, and no time to scan through it...

i needed to jack up my csvt the other day. i found out (cant believe i JUST found this out! lol) that my floor jack was able to slide under the center of the side skirt and reach the sfc. i needed to take the front wheel off. i jacked up by the sfc. the rear wheel lifted first but then the front wheel right after.

before i had been removing a jack point cover, using a scissor jack so i could get it up high enough to get the floor jack under and reach the sfc. never tried it in the middle like this though. doh! :troutslap:

although, when i finally get some 17s on for road courses, it will probably sit quite a bit lower and no longer be possible.. but that's just a guess at this point...
 
I'd be in for a set as well. I'm assuming these are unpainted/uncoated? I'd prefer to prime and paint them myself.

Back in the day, I bothered the Devil out of the SHOShop to bevel and cap the front ends of their SHO SFC's. I installed quite a few sets on SHO's and beveled and capped the front ends, as it keeps them from accumulating crap and smooths over the underbody catch point.

Gary M.
 
yes sir. they are 100% raw steel. and we have a cap option for those that want it, or you can just do it yourself if you like.


i discussed with john, about sending them in 4 pieces. where you weld the bar together at the middle. he said not only would YOU guys have to pay for the welding and whoever's doing it would hopefully make sure theyre straight and not get tweaked. ive seen that happen from john doing it and he had to cut them and realign/weld them again. he checks every bar after welding them so have no fear. he has more issues with making 2 lefts or 2 rights lol. but I make sure they dont get sent out like that lol! and he said that the extra cost you'd incur for having them welded together would not likely offset the minimal savings in shipping, if any. so unless specifically requested like that, id just leave that to the overseas shipments.

if anyone is in HI or AK, i now have a way to ship them within normal, reasonable means. :cool:
 
ScottyDsntKnow said:
Put me down for a set too. How much is the initial deposit to reserve a set? Also how much extra $ to have them boxed?
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initial deposit will be somewhere between $25 and $50. im waiting for confirmation but we should be able to keep the price at $150 shipped. i need to ask john what he wants to box the ends in. before it was $20 but that was pretty cheap. but we'll see what he says :shrug:
 
Awesome, yeah I'm in for sure. But I will need the ends boxed both for the added strength and I don't want crud and road grime sitting in there eating through the paint and then the metal.
 
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