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IC: Tubular Front Control Arms

F

FastFord

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Dec 13, 2010
Messages
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Location
Denver, CO
Just throwing this out there. I have a set of Stangkiller front control arms that I am willing to have duplicated for a group buy. Just want to see how many would be interested and how you all would prefer to buy them. Here are the two options I can offer:

Option 1, would be just the control arms with no ball joints, heims ends or powdercoat for $300 a set plus shipping.

Option 2, would be the control arms powdercoated with ball joints and heims ends, I am guessing this option would be around $500 plus shipping.

So far these would be for the 2 bolt style subframes, I would like to look into getting them made for the 4 bolt as well if that would even be possible. But for now just want to see how many would be interested in what.

LCA.jpg
 
They will reduce wheel hop increasing traction as well as providing better handling characteristics. I don't have any personal experience with these as I haven't installed them yet, I know several members have them on neco though and there are a couple threads that can be found with info in them.
 
i'm sorry but selling them with out anything for 300 is a joke. if your gonna sell them bare it should be half that. if you can get the price for a bare set to half wut your asking, im all in. but im not willing to shell out 300 for a couple steel triangles.
 
I have a set of the Stangkiller arms on my car, they are a great improvement in the traction and handling department. I don't get any wheel hop and have very little traction issues getting ~220hp to the pavement.
 
In depending on price. At $300 without balljoint it's about twice the cost of a standard quality replacement from Moog which are roughly $80/per with ball joint. Do you have any pics of those arms? An idea I had was something I saw on a mustang front LCA was to have threaded rod ends instead of bushings that would allow for camber adjustment without those plates, though someone with more knowledge than I have might see some problems with a FWD application versus a RWD, obviously mostly in reference to CVs. Even without camber adjustment I need a new set of front LCA's anyway and would rather not replace them with a stock part.
 
DanMyers said:
An idea I had was something I saw on a mustang front LCA was to have threaded rod ends instead of bushings that would allow for camber adjustment without those plates
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The originals did have threaded heim joints that were somewhat adjustable. I say somewhat because they're not perpendicular to the subframe mounts, they can only have so much adjustment before the bolt holes won't line up with the LCAs.
 
If you read what I posted right above you, there is a good explanation that basically said not much adjustment is needed at all, I'm not trying to drive on sidewalls, just want to make sure when I lower it, it will be able to reach stock camber levels without having to trust the camber plates which would make me nervous at every bump.

EDIT: Here's what Demon said in response to someone saying there isn't much adjustment to be had:

That is not true. The change in width at the eyelets is negligible over a range of multiple turns of the heim joint. The threaded joint allows for matching up the length and "squareness" of the control arm itself. Something to think about is that just a small change in the length of the LCA will make a noticeable change in camber. I don't have the exact measurement in front of me but there is roughly 22" between the strut tower and the ball joint. This means a change in LCA length of 1/4" will create roughly a .75 degree change in camber. (doing quick math) That is more then enough to pull even a severely lowered car back into a respectable camber range. I'd hypothesize you could get maybe (-) 1/3" of LCA length change before you go out of the limits. More likely you will run the heim all the way into the LCA before you get to that point though. I never tried it.
 
DanMyers said:
If you read what I posted right above you, there is a good explanation that basically said not much adjustment is needed at all, I'm not trying to drive on sidewalls, just want to make sure when I lower it, it will be able to reach stock camber levels without having to trust the camber plates which would make me nervous at every bump.
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Yeah I had posted in that original thread too :cool:

They were able to adjust mine some when I had it on the alignment rack to get it within stock specs. I'm lowered 1.6" on B&G Springs and Konis. So it was nice to have that adjustment available.
 
Well I'm glad we have someone who actually owns and has them installed can come in and let us know about problems/benefits. Honestly, this is probably the mod I've wanted to have the most since getting my car, wheel hop (especially now with 13 years and 140K) is excessive with the stock pieces and I really really want to get rid of it haha. Like I said, I'd rather not replace them with stock pieces, they are just too flexible to me. I'll be watching this thread with a ton of interest, saves me from having to buy a replacement, take it to my friend who owns his own fab shop, and then have him fab some up, probably at a fairly hefty price.

Thanks OP, I've been bugging everyone I can to make these for a while now, thanks for stepping up!
 
I am down...unlike the long tube headers....lets get this going. (no offense FastFord...you did you part on the headers....but $1200 is too steep). These control arms on the other hand....are a MUST!! This wheel hop crap is getting old. I wanna hook and book!!!
 
newb said:
i'm sorry but selling them with out anything for 300 is a joke. if your gonna sell them bare it should be half that. if you can get the price for a bare set to half wut your asking, im all in. but im not willing to shell out 300 for a couple steel triangles.
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Copied and pasted from the GB guidelines

*If you do not agree with a Group Buy price or product, let it be. Do not post negative remarks. If the price is high, don't buy it. You don't like windshield washer lights? Don't buy them.

*Legitimate questions are fine. But let's try not to clutter up the thread.



Anyways I still have plenty of research to do to look into this more and possibly try to get the price down on them. I could take a picture of mine but they look exactly like the ones in Demonsvts thread, so I just posted that picture in the original post.
 
i dont see how $200+ gets ball joints and the ends... please elaborate . im not trying to dis the product, im all for them as ill probly buy them or end up doing my own. i just wanna see how 200+ gets a few things. thats all. thx
 
newb said:
i dont see how $200+ gets ball joints and the ends... please elaborate . im not trying to dis the product, im all for them as ill probly buy them or end up doing my own. i just wanna see how 200+ gets a few things. thats all. thx
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Then you just have just asked that in the first place rather then calling the price a "joke". Ive known the OP for a while, and I know its not like hes going to mark them up ridiculously to make a huge profit or anything. If thats what he says they cost, figure it to be around there.
 
newb said:
i'm sorry but selling them with out anything for 300 is a joke. if your gonna sell them bare it should be half that. if you can get the price for a bare set to half wut your asking, im all in. but im not willing to shell out 300 for a couple steel triangles.
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That's because you're an idiot who doesn't realize what it takes to purchase DOM tubing, Plasma Cut/Laser Cut/Waterjet Cut/Machining of the flat plates for mounting the balljoints, as well as the tools involved to build them the correct way...tubing bender, lathe for tapping the bars for the heims (hand tapping sucks), decent welding machine, and the know-how to build a jig for ease of fabrication that's capable of repeated fabricated usage that doesn't go all kittywampus when you're welding things together.

Front suspension component fabrication is not something to be trifled with. Small amount of camber adjustment wouldn't hurt much, but put in the wrong hands you can throw your steering inclination off which effects your scrub radius which aids alot like caster for directional stability. If gone too far, handling will suffer. Too me the negative effects out number the one bonus of a little camber adjustment. Believe it or not, there is a reason Ford didn't design camber adjustment into the front MacPherson setup. I'm not 100% sure on this and could be wrong, but I think the effects show up faster on vehicles with rear steer such as the Contour has.

The only "joke" I see is your consistant low ball actions followed by other forum posts about "I'm gonna turbo my car...custom this...custom that...projectors..." the list goes on and on. So with all the big talkin' laundry list of expensive pipe dreams you have for your car, you wouldn't shell out a measly $300 for some tubular control arms?? This totally deserves some trout slappin'. Good luck with your build baaaaaaaaaaahahahahahaha!

Here's your sign: :troutslap:
 
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