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Hey 3L gurus I need advice on my swap (PICS)

yes, SVT valve covers will fit on a 2007 3.0 engine. the box is installed between the heads, the rear valve cover is painted black, which is telling me that it is a SVT valve cover, and will not work as a PCV system. you need the tube coming from between the heads to go to the intake manifold, and the two valve cover breather lines go to the intake snorkel tube.
 
TRicker said:
yes, SVT valve covers will fit on a 2007 3.0 engine. the box is installed between the heads, the rear valve cover is painted black, which is telling me that it is a SVT valve cover, and will not work as a PCV system. you need the tube coming from between the heads to go to the intake manifold, and the two valve cover breather lines go to the intake snorkel tube.
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Sorry your incorrect.

1.) ~2006+ have Exhaust cam running the water pump, not only that but the bolt pattern for the valve covers>heads is different.

2. That is not a svt rear valve cover, the valve covers might be black but that is a PCV Valve sticking out the top.

dscn3236x.jpg
 
The rear SVT cover does bolt up to the 06+ Escape motor but you'd need to fill in the extra bolt holes leaving a flat surface so there isn't a leak in that area. The front SVT cover of course can't be used because the water pump pulley is on the exhaust cam.
 
Im going up there tomorrow with a 3L TB and some misc vacuum supplies, and of course some tools. even if we cant get everything worked out by the time i leave he will know what else needs to be done to get the car back on the road and running well.
 
Alright well I feel like good progress was made today. Big thanks goes out to Dan (Striker2) for coming up and wrenching all day. We managed to get the correct throttle body set up, changed the intake pipe, got my filter/adaptor on, and relocated the coilpack from the firewall to the front valve cover. So all in all, really got some things cleaned up. HOWEVER, we still were unable to get to the bottom of the bucking/hesitation issues. Dan was able to drive the car and experience the problem as it relates to the car warming up as well as throttle postition once up to full temp. Once we were done trying everything we could think of I thought we should check it for codes even though the CEL hasnt been on. Sure enough there are 2 codes. Perhaps the CEL bulb is burnt out or removed. First code was P0443 Evap purge/vent, which we knew since that setup is missing/not being used. As far as I understand this shouldnt be contributing to the problem. The second code was P0102 MAF circuit low. Now this makes sense. That could definitely be a problem. I do have a spare SVT maf and I've already tried both with no positive results.

Anybody got any ideas?

Heres where we left off today . . .

Cleaned up engine bay
165393_494127099302_800374302_5812284_3836825_n.jpg


New coilpack location
166362_494127129302_800374302_5812285_7340433_n.jpg


New TB/intake setup
165320_494127179302_800374302_5812286_5429391_n.jpg


TB closeup
162911_494127234302_800374302_5812287_4136652_n.jpg


Let me know if any of you have a stock SVT throttle cable bracket, we had to rig this up for now. . .
 
The hesitation/stumbling seemed to be fine when under about half throttle, give it any more though and it would act up bad. Normally I would say thats a TPS but it has had 2 different TPS sensors (the current one is a known good one as i used it on my 3L originally) and still does it.


Garrett, check the wiring for both the TPS and MAF for cracks and peeling insulation and repair anything you find. also get that alternator fixed as it may be causing or masking some issues as well.
 
Remove the MAF connector and drive it. If it is better then it has to be a MAF. If the screen is missing put one in and test it also. Amazing how particular some engines are.
 
did that, didnt really make a difference. we also tried it both with and without the screen, again no difference either way.
 
If you have a scanner that can read the MAF output that might help. See if the counts are changing normally and the voltage at the MAF is normal. Compare that to a working car. Wiring or a ground issue might be the cause since unplugging the MAF didn't do anything.
 
Any specific area of the harness? Just the section of wire near the MAF plug or do i need to trace all the way back to the firewall? Seems this could be a likely culprit. I dont have a scanner but would gladly meet up with someone within a couple hours to check it out.
 
Hey guys, I'm gonna bump this up to the top again. I could use some help with this specific problem, bucking/hesitation under load, very throttle sensitive and the PCM has a MAF code. Like I said, I've tried two different SVT MAF's with no luck and its been mentioned that the wiring harness is a likely culprit. Can anyone be more specific for me? I noticed that the MAF connector goes directly into the junction connector about 8 inches away on the fender, into that chassis harness. I will try to get a pic tomorrow to show what I'm talking about.

Does anyone have a pinout procedure that I could check? Maybe a PCM pinout so I could check continuity to all the leads on the MAF connector? Any help would be great!
 
Any CEL codes?

If you suspect the harness. I wouldn't just try to hunt one wire at a time. I'd get a new Injector harness all together and have svttour get you a main harness.

E0 harnesses are junk. :nonono:
 
Beans said:
Any CEL codes?

If you suspect the harness. I wouldn't just try to hunt one wire at a time. I'd get a new Injector harness all together and have svttour get you a main harness.

E0 harnesses are junk. :nonono:
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Yep post #48.

So is the MAF part of the injector harness or main harness?
 
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