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Hey 3L gurus I need advice on my swap (PICS)

Yeah this car has had quite the history. Sounds like it was a little more solidly put together when it left Kevin's hands and then the TB and intake were yanked for the current "setup".

The rear pcv port on the valve cover is not blocked off, it T's into a hose that goes to the box between the heads. So it sounds like I need to do some work here to clean up the PCV setup. Is there a link you guys can point me to for the proper setup on a full 3L?
 
Garrett76zt said:
Yeah this car has had quite the history. Sounds like it was a little more solidly put together when it left Kevin's hands and then the TB and intake were yanked for the current "setup".

The rear pcv port on the valve cover is not blocked off, it T's into a hose that goes to the box between the heads. So it sounds like I need to do some work here to clean up the PCV setup. Is there a link you guys can point me to for the proper setup on a full 3L?
Click to expand...
the 2 things i cut corners on were the cap on the intake right by the TB is an OIL cap from something, and i will admit to the rubber fuel line.. but when it left my hands it run fine started right up there was a hesitation, i just ran out of money for it and needed it gone for money for my mustang :shrug: kinda ashamed with my self for letting it go and getting all messed up. im going to try to get with garrett soon and get it going. I miss the poor car :laugh:
 
That is very cool of you to be in here helping out where you can even though you didn't cause the issues. Thank you.
 
yeah I really appreciate all of Kevin's help. I would love to get everything set up properly and reliably and then deal with the tuning issue.

here is an overview pic of the rear PCV setup. As you can see it t's in with the hose running to the black box and another hose that has a small gray plastic vacuum line. Not sure where that goes? Maybe there isnt a vacuum source here afterall.
167266_489963814302_800374302_5750973_3698856_n.jpg


167121_489963844302_800374302_5750974_1794455_n.jpg


This is a better pic of the fuel regulator/block deal. Right now its just kind of free hanging down there. Where do you guys typically mount this with the 3L swap? Or where is it mounted from the factory?
164870_489963884302_800374302_5750975_5760575_n.jpg


There is also this pipe behind the motor that is left open like this. What is it? EGR related? Vent for the fuel setup?
166882_489963954302_800374302_5750981_7604022_n.jpg
 
:crazy:

What i would do is.

-Block off the main PCV from the middle of the block, if you don't have that plate right now I'd just cap off the pipe.

- Run the PCV from the rear valve cover into the UIM like it is supposed to.

- That tiny Grey vacuum line, T that into the other smaller vacuum lines

- the "block fuel line thing" is NPG converter mod. It's aftermarket and converts Return less to return. most people have it near the front of the car, look at other full 3L's

- That greenish line that is open... I have no idea what it is. kind looks like the other end of a the gas tank emission hose. I'd follow it.



Put the spark plug wires the other way around the engine they are bothering me lol.
 
ok, after seeing those pictures, i can tell you what those 3 plugs are for. the 3 pin grey one is for the DPFE, the green one is for the knock sensor, the black one is for the EGR solenoid. so, dont worry about the grey and black one, but get the green one hooked up to the knock sensor if possible.

That little grey vacuum line goes to either the EVAP purge solenoid or the HVAC system both of which need a source of vacuum to work properly. in either case though, its not pulling a vacuum on the PCV valve(s). you need to delete the black box under the lower intake manifold (PM blackcoug as im sure he has several blockoff plates sitting around) and then run a large single line from the rear valve cover directly to the intake manifold (probably to the large port on the bottom).

the fuel block is an aftermarket piece designed to allow the hookup of the return style fuel system to the 3L returnless fuel rail. there really isnt much you can do with it other than make sure its sitting in a place that wont let it move around a lot.

the pipe behind the motor is probably the EVAP purge line. IIRC it should have a corrugated type hose that goes to the EVAP purge solenoid mounted on the firewall (which i bet isnt there). there should then be another corrugated type hose that leads from the solenoid to the the intake manifold.



BTW, if you ever decide that you are completely lost let me know and I can come up there one day (during the week or on the weekend) and help you figure out what you need to do. I live about an hour down I71 from Cincinnati and know these cars quite well. I could even bring some spare parts if needed (I have a stock 3L TB).
 
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Hey thanks for the very helpful info guys! Striker I would love to take you up on the offer to meet up. I could really use the Taurus TB too.

My current big problem (of several) is that the alternator isnt charging. Short of a possible plug coming off I'll assume the alternator is dead. Which alternator is most likely on the car and what can I replace it with? Are all the 3L alternators the same? Escape, Taurus, Contour?
 
You will need to pick-up a Contour alternator.


Let me know what days work best for you and ill see what i can work out.
 
That's good you have the NPG fuel mod. You have the exact same fuel rail I used in my swap, you should be able to get a quick connect fitting like the one shown below and simply attach it to the end of the braided line that goes to the fuel rail. That should eliminate the hose that was used. I don't know off hand which size it is but I have one in my garage waiting to be hooked up. I haven't tried to fit it yet so I hope I have the right size.
ap_640850.jpg

NPG may be able to let you know what size you need too.
 
LOL. i will fix this problem.


that TB does not have an opening for the IAC to work. that also is not a 2007 intake manifold by the looks of it.

you MUST use a 3L tb. i should still have one here if you need it.

there seems to be no PCV system hooked up on that manifold, everything is plugged. that won't work. the green plug should be for the knock sensor. sometimes the TPS plug can be green but it shouldnt be. the guy may have them two swapped around. the black plug shown is the IAC and the grey one is the DPFE sensor (for the egr system, which is deleted)


i just saw the picture for the PCV setup. it is incorrect. the old style valve covers tube should vent to the intake tube, not to the PCV valve. eliminate the PCV valve because it already has one coming from between the heads. run that 5/8" hose to the bottom of the intake manifold, on one of the fittings that is blocked off. that should help a lot. as it sits right now, it probably has two PCV valves on it and is most likely building crankcase pressure and burning oil.

at LEAST get a maf adaptor from the auto parts store and a filter. the maf isnt functioning well right now. my assumption is that the car idles at about 500rpm when warm and hiccups off idle because you have no idle air control right now. there is no open port in that SVT tb therefore it won't work correctly.
 
it looks like the previous owner ruined the fitting on the rear valve cover. all those tubes are supposed to do is vent the valve covers and keep any blow by from reaching the atmosphere. i have a set of SVT covers that just need to be painted, if you would like. i can send you you a clean working 3L throttle body if you like. the gas pedal feels different because of the 3L linkage. there is a how-to on putting the shaft from a SVT tb into the 3L housing so it feels like stock. LMK if you need any parts, i have lots of random 3L stuff laying around and can give you further advice over the phone if you can't figure it out.
 
Ok so just to be clear . . .

You want me to run this pipe to the manifold.
166869_490439519302_800374302_5757228_1784314_n.jpg


And cap this off? Or is this supposed to go to the manifold too?
162840_490439484302_800374302_5757227_2768834_n.jpg
 
Yes that's correct. Except don't use that hose. Use a 5/8" hose if you have it.

Eventually get a block off plate, and delete that entire black box.. I'm sure someone will send one to you for shipping cost if they have it around.
 
So this escape motor came from the factory with a block off plate installed there and the previous owner took it off and installed the box from the 2.5?
 
Ok PVC system is all sorted out, at least until I get ahold of a block off plate.

You know when I was looking at the throttle body the other day, it appears that the previous owner drilled a hole on the inside for the IACV. Still wont stop me from replacing the whole thing but thought it was worth mentioning.

Next big thing is getting an alternator. . .
 
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