Hey 3L gurus I need advice on my swap (PICS)

[Garrett76zt]

Hey guys, i actually just purchased this car today and I'm in the process of cleaning it up and working through some "hiccups" the original owner obviously had. The car is a '98 CSVT and the 3L swap was already done with what I'm told is an '07 Escape 3L. I've been doing lots of research on the 3L swap over the past several months but still have questions regarding the one I picked up today.

Right now the car is barely driveable when cold. It bucks and hesitates really badly. As it warms up it gets progressively better. When fully warm it feels pretty normal, acceleration wise, if at half throttle or less but still hesitates a good bit when going full throttle.

My obvious concerns are with the current setup TB to MAF. Right now there is nothing before the MAF inlet. 2 vacuum ports on the intake tube have been plugged and two ports on the UIM have been plugged. I'm not sure what the deal is with the throttle body. It seems obvious that this is not the correct throttle body and throttle cable setup for this swap. Can you help me identify what it is and what I need to change it to? Also unsure if the MAF is the correct one or not? Given the symptoms I suspect TB/TPS, MAF, and vacuum leaks.

Please take a look at these pics and let me know any red flags you guys see.

Engine bay today when I purchased the car, drove it about 60 miles this way.

Closeup of intake

Throttle Body closeups - top right bolt hole does not lineup with UIM hence the previous owners "fix".

Bottom side of the UIM, top two ports are blocked off and bottom two ports go to brake booster and Fuel pressure regulator

Intake tube closeup - these two ports are blocked off

Sensor and PCV

MAF closeup

There are also a few connectors in the engine bay that are currently not plugged in. This one is just to the right of the UIM

These three are between the rear valve cover and the firewall. Two of them look like a TPS plug and a IACV plug, not sure about the other one. There are separate plugs already plugged into the IACV and TPS and the ones pictured do not fit. Any ideas whats going on here?

Thanks for any help you can give me!

 

[Beans]

1.)That looks like a newer duratec for sure with the front water pump pully cam.

2.)I would get a actual 3L TB... not a svt with a c clamp.

3.) I'm not as familar with the routing of the hoses on a full 3L, but i know some of the accordin intake ports should be plugged because of the newer PCV style. Where does the hose on your rear valve cover go to?

4.) First plug in your hand is IMRC which is fine unplugged

5.) the other three is DPFE Knock sensor and i think Vaccum pressure sensor.

6.) Maf is fine. Needs a filter.

7)How is your fuel system rigged up? I would look at that considering how the rest of this looks :help:

 

[alwayssideways]

well first off. The car will need a tune to run a full 3.0 swap.

With that being said ,DAMN!! I love the clamp holding the TB to the uim.
It looks like the person tried to put the 65mm mustang TB on the engine. Also there are numerous chances for a vacuum leak even if the car was programed to run a full 3.0. I see the front bank is connected to the intake tube. Is the rear bank connected?
you should also run a filter on the car. You dont want suck anything into the engine. Also there is no clamp on the accordion tube. This can cause a vac leak to.
Im sorry , but that whole induction system looks like a complete mess.

The 3 connectors you have in your hand in the last picture to me looks like the dpfe, egr flow sensor and iac connectors. One might be the knock sensor. On the 2.5 harness the knock sensor connector is normally run with the dpfe harness.

 

[Beans]

You can run a full 3L without a tune.

 

[rexxdoggy]

It'll just run sluggish when you try to give it a lot of gas below 3500 RPMs. I would know this lol

 

[Garrett76zt]

Ok so this is definitely not a 3L TB, either an stock SVT TB or a mustang 65mm? Is the TPS on this TB a possible culprit for the car acting up?

The hose from the rear valve cover PCV is T'd into some other vacuum source running under the intake manifold I believe. I will get a definite answer tomorrow.

I did track down a couple of small vacuum leaks tonight which might have made things a little better but the car still bucks pretty hard when cold and hesitates alot.

So you guys are saying that the last three plugs are DPFE, Knock sensor, and/or vacuum pressure sensor and/or EGR flow and/or IAC. Are these ok being disconnected or are they a likely cause for the engine's behaviour?

Once all this stuff is cleaned up and correct then I can look into tuning stuff. What specifically should I look at with the fuel setup? I will get a pic of the injectors/rail for you guys.

 

[imnotacop420]

Yikes.....thats a mess!

 

[blu_fuz]

Leaky fuel injectors could cause your bucking and hesitation below 3500 rpm, combined with the secondaries removed that could be the main issue. What injectors are in it? Color? Part number?

 

[striker2]

1.)That looks like a newer duratec for sure with the front water pump pully cam.

2.)I would get a actual 3L TB... not a svt with a c clamp.

3.) I'm not as familar with the routing of the hoses on a full 3L, but i know some of the accordin intake ports should be plugged because of the newer PCV style. Where does the hose on your rear valve cover go to?

4.) First plug in your hand is IMRC which is fine unplugged

5.) the other three is DPFE Knock sensor and i think Vaccum pressure sensor.

6.) Maf is fine. Needs a filter.

7)How is your fuel system rigged up? I would look at that considering how the rest of this looks :help:

1. looks like a newer escape motor.

2. Definitely needs the proper TB, without it the IAC cant get any measured air and the car will idle like ••••.

3. there will be some blocked off ports, as long as they are blocked off with vacuum caps (and IMO clamps as well) they should be ok.

4. yup, IMRC plug.

5. grey 3 pin could be DPFE, or TPS (i would have said fuel pressure sensor but its a 98 so it doesnt have one of those). other 2 could be knock sensor, coolant temp sensor, EGR solenoid, IAC.

6. Yup, get an adapter and filter on it.

7. looks like it might be the Escape fuel rail connected to the stock system.

 

[Smokinjoe]

60 miles with no air filter? Yikes!

 

[SHOgoFast]

Just about every one of those disconnected sensors could lead to the symptoms you are describing. You will have to tackle each one and see what you are left with.

If there is no tune on the car and it has 24lbs (stock 3L) injectors it could cause the bucking. Also, no tune, and disconnected IMRC can lead it driveability issues as well. I've read plenty of threads on bucking and hesitation that were DPFE and/or EGR related. So, basically, you have a lot of little things to iron out. And at the end of the day, you need all vac leak issues cleaned up too. Keep the pictures coming and we'll be here to help you out.

Good luck!

 

[gomach1]

I have a stock 3L TB if you need along with anything off of a complete 3L taurus UIM/LIM. I used all the svt stuff so i have alot left over, all with 30k on it.

 

[Garrett76zt]

Ok I'm about to head out to the garage and get you guys some more pics of the fuel system, etc. Can you school me on the secondary situation you mentioned?

Ok so when you do a full 3L swap are the DPFE, EGR, IMRC deleted? I thought I read something about getting a tune to turn some things off?

By any chance is there a detailed writeup for swapping a newer escape motor in('06-'07)?

 

[Kevin1989]

motor is out of an 07 escape. none of that •••• was like that when i had the car. i bought a TB off a memeber on here. the pop cap wasnt there. the car ran fine other than the hesitation he is stating. i always assumed that it was because of the tune.... seeing as its literally a 3l dropped right in. injectors should be from the 2.5 svt motor.

 

[RFcsvt]

Ok I'm about to head out to the garage and get you guys some more pics of the fuel system, etc. Can you school me on the secondary situation you mentioned?

Ok so when you do a full 3L swap are the DPFE, EGR, IMRC deleted? I thought I read something about getting a tune to turn some things off?

By any chance is there a detailed writeup for swapping a newer escape motor in('06-'07)?

On a full 3L some people delete the EGR, it's not necessary but it's a little easier to not deal with it.

The secondaries are part of the SVT LIM. If you do a full 3L they are deleted with the IMRC and that is why your IMRC plug remains unused.

If you delete the EGR then that's turned off in the tune as far as I understand.

I am almost done with my 06 full Escape swap. I didn't find a newer Escape engine writeup, but it's very similar to the other full 3L swaps. I did have to do additional research throughout the project but I was able to pretty much find every answer I needed.

 

[Garrett76zt]

Ok sounds like I'm starting to get to the bottom of a few things here.

Can I assume this is where the DPFE was located? And I assume if you delete the EGR the DPFE goes with it?

Heres what I'm working with fuel-wise:

Somehow this coolant pipe got beat up and doesnt seal well with a hose and clamp. Does it pull out so I can replace it with another one?

 

[striker2]

I see so many things wrong in these pictures i dont even know where to begin. the 2 big things are the PCV and fuel systems.

currently, the engine has the stock 2.5L PCV system installed, its the line that goes into the black box between the heads. this shouldnt even be there with a full 3L as the stock 3L system should have used. instead, the port on the top of the rear valve cover, which is actually the stock 3L PCV valve, has been blocked off.

the fuel system scares me as it has the rubber fuel line. :yikes: most of those hoses, even the ones that say fuel injection hose, arent meant to be used as a fuel supply hose, but rather a return hose. also, they are supposed to be used on barb fittings, of which the fuel rail is most definitely not.

 

[Beans]

For that pipe you need to replace that whole cross over Assembly that bolts between the two heads.

I don't find that fuel line with a hose barb very safe. :blackeye: I would strongly consider getting a new fuel rail with the adapter that is suppose to connect too it.


Ahhhh and there still is the PCV between the heads too? :crazy:

You have two PCV hook ups going lol.... Your going to need to get a block off plate for the center heads. And your rear PCV (grey tube coming out of rear valve cover) is suppose to go directly inside the UIM.

Oh god what a terrible swap lol. Good luck, what a mess.

 

[RFcsvt]

Maybe I'm missing something in the pics, but what is used to convert the fuel lines from return to returnless? There should be two lines basically turning into the one that goes to the fuel rail. I think I can see the fuel pressure reg but I can't tell what else is there.

 

[blu_fuz]

This is exacly why I started the 3L registry!

That car was built by Kevin1989, sold to SinisterSVT in Ohio, then passed onto Garrett76zt.

98 SVT 101,646 miles. full 3l out of an 07 ford escape 30k miles.
#2761 in 1998

Some build info:
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?48042-2007-escape-motor

1998.5 SVT Contour
Black on Blue
101k on body
30k on engine out of a 2007 Escape

Cold air intake, 2005 Taurus UIM. Under construction but very driveable!!"