rollinstylee
Hard-core CEG'er
You got me there. Pretty skinny.Damn....how skinny are you. I have the same suspension and no way am I fitting under there lol.
You don't really want the rears longer than stock unless you're lifted. Point is to keep the bar pretty close to horizontal at static ride height for an optimal lever ratio.Anyway you said with one nut removed the rears are as long as stock. Is this what we want? Is there an advantage to leaving both nuts on there to make it longer than stock?
Well, I'm a chassis engineer but that doesn't necessarily mean I know what I'm doing with this car. :laugh: It will be trial and error if there's an issue, since I don't know of anyone here who has used adjustable front links on a Contour. I lengthened them to partially return the bar to its original orientation, since lowering effectively raises the mounting tab on the strut, rotating the sway bar up. However, the LCA is also more horizontal after lowering, so the clearance there decreases on this car when you do this (another argument for roll center adjusters!). So admittedly my length setting is somewhat arbitrary.For the fronts, how do you know how to set them? What is the benefit on making it longer/shorter? What is the ideal setting?
I figure since we have the same Koni/B&G setup and hoping you know what your doing .....I can copy your settings
The stock front links don't have bushings, they're just ball joints on the ends. So I'm not sure what you mean.Lastly, does it make sense to try and take off the stock front bushings and add them to these upgraded ones?