GB: Upgraded Sway Bar Endlinks

[Chris@CTA]

I'd like a set of fronts and rears. Please PM me the total with shipping to L6Y3K6, Ontario, Canada. Thanks.

 

[LightningFastFord]

Put me down for rears only to Georgia.. and how to send payment

 

[LilCe98]

Put me down for rears only to Georgia.. and how to send payment

Put yourself down. there's a list going :shrug:

 

[SVTkid]

I dont know if this new list is really legit, cause striker2 only has a certain number of these and has a full order as is. But if there are any left over, or if theres enough people to set up another gb, im definitely in. So i guess heres the list as of now..


1.LilCe98(rear set)
2.Mark T (front & rear set to UK)
3.Necronommicon (Front & Rear)
4.UKFAN50 (just rear set)
5.SVTkid (front and rear set)

 

[striker2]

i wont have but a set or 2 left over. that said, if you guys that werent able to get in on this one want to start a seperate thread i would be willing to do another GB. i would like to limit it to 10 people at a time though so i dont have the hold ups from my supplier again.


update for this GB. got stuck in class and doing school work so i didnt make it to the post office today. however, i will be there first thing in the morning with 18 boxes waiting for them. now that its almost midnight i can finish off my HW. lol

 

[OB1]

1.LilCe98(rear set)
2.Mark T (front & rear set to UK)
3.Necronommicon (Front & Rear)
4.UKFAN50 (just rear set)
5.SVTkid (front and rear set)
6.OB1(both)

 

[CSVT_2004]

Unless I pick up another job soon, I won't be able to apply, hope this continues to be a GB in the future.

 

[striker2]

1. Chas (full set) CEG PAID Shipped
2. KyleQ (full set) CEG PAID Shipped
3. brapple (full set) CEG PAID Shipped

5. kevxr2002 (full set) NECO PAID Shipped
6. jaged (full set) NECO PAID Shipped
7. isisfreak (full set?) NECO PAID Shipped
8. Gorman (full set) NECO PAID Shipped
9. rollinstylee (full set) CEG PAID Shipped
10. S.BOOGIE2468 (full set) NECO PAID Shipped
11. muntus (full set) CEG PAID Shipped
12. SVT Loki (Full) CEG PAID
13. spider1178 (full set) NECO PAID Shipped
14. morbid (front) CEG PAID Shipped
15. 99cougarsupreme (full set) NECO
16. Linkman (Full set) NECO (and CEG) PAID Shipped
17. TeamSVTour (full set) CEG PAID Shipped
18. 111R (fronts) CEG PAID Shipped
19. TOPIK(FULL SET) NECO
20. Desertneco (Full Set) NECO
21. Monkeygrits (Full Set) NECO PAID
22. tigerbalm (full set) CEG PAID
23. Wien_Sean (full set) CEG PAID
24. Arnold (full set) CEG
25. Redlineracer12 (full set) CEG PAID
26. sonza68 (fronts) NECO PAID
27. kpeeks (full set) NECO PAID
28. Newcat016(Full Set) NECO PAID
29. blustreak (fullset) NECO PAID
30. SVTJON87 (Rear only) CEG PAID Shipped
31. Gooserex (full set) CEG PAID
32. 5559 (rear only) CEG PAID Shipped
33. Chromed CoUgaR (Full Set) NECO PAID'
34. Blind829 (Full Set) CEG PAID
35. CRZYDRVR (Full Set) CEG PAID
36. DevanMC (full set) CEG PAID Shipped

The reason SVTJON87 and 5559 shipped already is because they only had rears and i have all the rears done. DevanMC shipped out because we had made a deal before the GB started and i had never added him to the list till he reminded me at the end.:shocked:

everybody else that paid will be going out no later than Thursday around noon, probably before that though. I also have one person who paid late and did not put their SN in the paypal notes. Mr Benitez please send me a PM so i know who you are.

 

[KyleQ]

W00t - thanks!

 

[ukfan50]

i wont have but a set or 2 left over. that said, if you guys that werent able to get in on this one want to start a seperate thread i would be willing to do another GB. i would like to limit it to 10 people at a time though so i dont have the hold ups from my supplier again.


update for this GB. got stuck in class and doing school work so i didnt make it to the post office today. however, i will be there first thing in the morning with 18 boxes waiting for them. now that its almost midnight i can finish off my HW. lol

I'm on the new GB list that was started (UKFAN50) & just need rears. Will you let us know when we need to paypal you the $?

I need these rears the sooner the better because I have a BAT 21mm RSB sitting at home ready to install, but then I found your endlinks.

Thanks in advance...

 

[striker2]

1. Chas (full set) CEG PAID Shipped
2. KyleQ (full set) CEG PAID Shipped
3. brapple (full set) CEG PAID Shipped

5. kevxr2002 (full set) NECO PAID Shipped
6. jaged (full set) NECO PAID Shipped
7. isisfreak (full set?) NECO PAID Shipped
8. Gorman (full set) NECO PAID Shipped
9. rollinstylee (full set) CEG PAID Shipped
10. S.BOOGIE2468 (full set) NECO PAID Shipped
11. muntus (full set) CEG PAID Shipped
12. SVT Loki (Full) CEG PAID Shipped
13. spider1178 (full set) NECO PAID Shipped
14. morbid (front) CEG PAID Shipped
15. 99cougarsupreme (full set) NECO
16. Linkman (Full set) NECO (and CEG) PAID Shipped
17. TeamSVTour (full set) CEG PAID Shipped
18. 111R (fronts) CEG PAID Shipped
19. TOPIK(FULL SET) NECO
20. Desertneco (Full Set) NECO
21. Monkeygrits (Full Set) NECO PAID Shipped
22. tigerbalm (full set) CEG PAID Shipped
23. Wien_Sean (full set) CEG PAID Shipped
24. Arnold (full set) CEG PAID
25. Redlineracer12 (full set) CEG PAID Shipped
26. sonza68 (fronts) NECO PAID Shipped
27. kpeeks (full set) NECO PAID Shipped
28. Newcat016(Full Set) NECO PAID Shipped
29. blustreak (fullset) NECO PAID Shipped
30. SVTJON87 (Rear only) CEG PAID Shipped
31. Gooserex (full set) CEG PAID
32. 5559 (rear only) CEG PAID Shipped
33. Chromed CoUgaR (Full Set) NECO PAID'
34. Blind829 (Full Set) CEG PAID Shipped
35. CRZYDRVR (Full Set) CEG PAID Shipped
36. DevanMC (full set) CEG PAID Shipped

 

[Redlineracer12]

Sweet

 

[BrApple]

look what was in the box I found at my door when I got home today :drool:

 

[striker2]

If someone would be willing to take pictures during the install i can then put them in this guide and create a separate how-to post in the how-to section. Also, if something doesnt seem clear or i forgot a step please let me know so i can update it.



Sway Bar Endlinks Install guide.


Fronts:
1. Start by jacking up both sides of the car and removing the wheels. Then use a 15mm wrench/ratchet and either a pair of vice grips or, IIRC, a 17mm wrench (could be 18mm) on the back side of the endlink stud through the strut. Once that end is removed, repeat the procedure on the other end of endlink, at the sway bar. Repeat for the other side of the car.

2. If you want to set the endlinks to stock length, simply turn the ends until you reach the desired length. The end with the larger jam nut is right hand thread, while the end with the smaller jam nut is left hand thread. This is done so you can easily distinguish between the two. Once you have the length set, tighten the jam nuts against the rod. At this point you wont be able to fully lock them but get them as tight as you can. Set both sides to the same length.

3. Install the bottom through bolt first. Make sure you have a spacer on both sides of the rod end and a washer on both sides of the sway bar. Since the spacers are hand cut, they wont all be exactly the same size, but that’s not an issue since they only have to be thick enough to keep the bolt head or washer from contacting the rod end. The bolt goes inward as seen here.

4. Install the other through bolt through the strut in the same manner, only with the bolt facing outwards. Don’t forget to put the brake hose bracket onto the bolt before you install the lock nut.

5. Using a 9/16 wrench, lock down the jam nuts. Make sure they are nice and tight, you don’t want them to back off while your driving as it would allow the endlinks to spin and change their length. Don’t forget that the small one is left hand thread and thus backwards.

6. Repeat for the other side.

7. Install wheels and lower car.


Rears:

1. Again jack up both sides of the vehicle and remove the wheels.

2. Using a 15mm and 13mm wrench loosen the through bolt for the stock endlink but do not remove it at this time, leave the nut partially on the bolt.

3. Using a deep well 15mm socket, remove the nut that holds the endlink to the control arm.

4. Finish removing the through bolt and remove the endlink.

5. Using a flat head screwdriver, sometimes it takes two, work your way around the bushing in the control arm, pushing the it down until you have completely removed it. This takes some work, practice, and patience, but once you have it figured out is not difficult.

6. Disassemble your upgraded endlink but leave the bottom bushing, bushing cup, and washer on the bolt. Like this:

7. Put the bolt with bushing up through the hole in the control arm and install the other bushing, bushing cup, washer and lock washer, and nut, in that order. Using a 9/16 wrench and 9/16 socket, tighten down the nut as tight as possible.

8. Here is where you have 2 options. Option 1 is install the second nut and then the rod end, using the second nut as a jam nut against the rod end. Use this setup for stock or only slightly lowered suspensions. Option 2 is to skip the second nut and just install the rod end all the way down and tighten it fully against the nut. Use this setup for suspensions dropped more than ~1”.

Option 1

Option 2

9. Install the through bolt in the same manner as the fronts, again making sure there is a spacer on both sides of the rod end and a washer on both sides of the sway bar. Using your 9/16 wrench and ratchet, tighten down the lock nut.

10. Repeat for other side

11. Install wheels and lower vehicle



As a side note, I recommend checking all the nuts for the first couple oil changes just to make sure they aren’t backing off or coming loose. Once you feel comfortable they aren’t backing off then you can go to only checking them occasionally.

 

[SVTJON87]

Got mine today. They are of extremely nice quality. thank you!!!!!

 

[Chas]

Mine even came with a free newspaper! :laugh:

 

[KyleQ]

Got mine too - thx man.

 

[rollinstylee]

Bah, no need to remove wheels in the rear or even jack it up. I'm lowered on B&Gs and can crawl under there with enough room to swap them out. I did remove the front wheels, however after fighting with the lower joint on both front links for a few minutes due to difficult access with the wheel on.

Comments: striker mentioned removing one nut from the rears for those lowered more than 1". This actually just makes them approximately the same length as original.

Sorry for the blurry pic, camera didn't want to focus from this angle.

This was as long as I decided to set the fronts, approximately 5/8" longer than stock. This is leaving 8 engaged threads (should be fine with fewer if necessary). This already pushed the sway bar down very close to the LCA at full jounce, so I won't be setting them any longer.

I don't have any driving impressions yet, as I haven't taken it out. I will tomorrow. They sure look trick though, and they install easily. Thanks for getting this together striker.

 

[teamSVTour]

Bah, no need to remove wheels in the rear or even jack it up. I'm lowered on B&Gs and can crawl under there with enough room to swap them out.

Damn....how skinny are you. I have the same suspension and no way am I fitting under there lol.

Comments: striker mentioned removing one nut from the rears for those lowered more than 1". This actually just makes them approximately the same length as original.


This was as long as I decided to set the fronts, approximately 5/8" longer than stock. This is leaving 8 engaged threads (should be fine with fewer if necessary). This already pushed the sway bar down very close to the LCA at full jounce, so I won't be setting them any longer.

I'm kinda a newb with this stuff so if this question is dumb then my bad :laugh:.

Anyway you said with one nut removed the rears are as long as stock. Is this what we want? Is there an advantage to leaving both nuts on there to make it longer than stock?

For the fronts, how do you know how to set them? What is the benefit on making it longer/shorter? What is the ideal setting?

I figure since we have the same Koni/B&G setup and hoping you know what your doing .....I can copy your settings


Lastly, does it make sense to try and take off the stock front bushings and add them to these upgraded ones?

 

[striker2]

keep in mind that by the time you lock down the rears from the picture of them next to the stock ones, you will have shortened them by about 1/4". adding the second nut takes them back just over 1/4" thus putting that setup at about the same length as stock.

for both the fronts and the rears, you want to set them so that the sway bar is as close to parallel with the ground as possible.