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fastest time?

I feel it's all in your launching technique. Like Kremit said, you can kind of preload your axles, to take away that initial jaunt. I don't use the e-brake, but I do load up the axles before launching. Keep your right foot on the brake, and release the clutch until it starts to grab. Let the car roll just enough to load up the axles. Push the clutch pedal back in, JUST enough to keep it from rolling forward anymore. When letting out on the clutch, you can't just dump it and hope for the best. You need to make it a smooth transition, as well as modulating the gas pedal. This technique is what has allowed me to cut a few 2.1 60' times on street tires, my lowest being a 2.13. This same routine will hold true with slicks or drag radials, only, the rpm's will have to be brought up significantly on the launch.

btw - Never had an axle problem in the 91k miles I have on my SVT. Heck, I never even broke the stock differential, although it was in rough shape at 52k miles, when the Quaife went in. :)

Mark
 
Y2KSVT said:
btw - Never had an axle problem in the 91k miles I have on my SVT. Heck, I never even broke the stock differential, although it was in rough shape at 52k miles, when the Quaife went in. :)

Mark
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Im honestly surprised you havent broken an axle with your 1-2 shift. :laugh:
 
TRicker said:
;) yep kyle i think im shooting to break into the 12's this year. first you gotta help me get that engine in and do up the trans. when can we use your garage for a whole weekend ;)
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Hehe, I'd love to help you make the fastest streetable Contour out there man. I'd be game for it, lol, another 45min on my car and we coulda pulled me engine out doing that torsen install :laugh:
 
hmm wonder what a built 3l with turbo and nitrous would do
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We'll know something close very soon. Fully built 3L with Vortech and smaller pully, air/water aftercooler (with 2 tricks to keep the water mix super cooled), and direct-port N2O... (Not sure on shot size we'll be running until it hits the dyno...) Should be in the car within a few months and ready to tune.

E1
 
beyondloadedSE said:
A lot of other car manufacturers actually build pretty strong axles and transmissions for their cars stock. The contour isnt one of those. Numerous people have broken stock axles on 3.0Ls without even slicks.
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I don't think this is completely the case. I believe that the sloppy motor mount system used increases driveline movement and the shock of the launch breaks them. Preloading is a good idea to reduce the rate of impact loading.
In any case, there is no easy fix to the contours and as you have said the driveshaft shop hasn't faired any better.
Even their mixed alloy axles had to be stronger than stock yet they still broke right? Therefore I say it is likely they are due to the other issues.
 
warmonger said:
Therefore I say it is likely they are due to the other issues.
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For Example:
1. It's a Contour.
2. Wiggly Mounts.
3. It's a Contour.
4. Not really a straight line car
5. It's a Contour.

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i have a friend that had a acura CL or something like that with bolt ons and a bottle on it. he was able to cut great 60' times with slicks. he had a video he showed me to show how he loads his axles, with the e brake. it looked pretty slick actually. i think that y2k's explanation is how i do it. i can launch it half decent, if i can use the bottle in first and not wheel hop i should be able to cut fair 60' times. :) thanks for everyones input
 
Well yeah I could probably go break my axles right now if I felt like it. But are a honda civic's axles actually stronger than a contour's, including the dss ones? I seriously doubt that.

And yeah our motor mounts can be changed and some things done to the suspension to get better traction. Now, will someone go run atleast a mid 12 by the end of next month?
 
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i'm going to have a serious setup that should be capable of low 13's and hopefully i can get well into the 12's. but not this month, its still frozen here. probably in april :)
 
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