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Engine running hot, I think...

Ok, I just did everything, but apparently that was only half of my problem... Now if I drive with the A/C on low, it will stay between the R and the M, where as before it would not go down below the A... But my fan does not turn on automatically until it gets over the L... What needs to be replaced now? LOL...
 
BoSoxBruin said:
So if I am sitting in traffic the temp is supposed to go up to the L before it cools down? That does not make sense when I can just run my defroster and keep it on the M...
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When the temp goes to L, the high speed for the radiator fan comes on. Thus, reducing the coolant temperature.

FavoriteMystaque said:
The fans run if:

1. The A/C is on. Low speed unless there is a lot of heat (hot day and engine) then it will cycle low/high.

2 If operating temperature is reached, needle about over the M on the gauge, gives low speed.
....
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Tony2005 said:
When the temp goes to L, the high speed for the radiator fan comes on. Thus, reducing the coolant temperature.
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Ok then... So is this like a "Contour" thing, because all of the other cars I have driven (01 Kia Spectra, 98 Hyundai Accent, late 80's Volvo, 96 Ford Taurus, 08 Nissan Sentra, late 90's Subaru Legacy, mid 90's Toyota Camery), the temperature has always stayed dead center on the gauge, no matter how hot/cold it was outside, no matter if the heat was on or not, and the fans always came on...
 
BoSoxBruin said:
Yea, this does not happen... Maybe my low speed motor is blown?
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you only have one fan. the low speed is achieved through a resistor.

earlier you said the fan comes on at 228 degrees. if this is still true (cant imagine it changed) then the fan is coming on correctly. the high speed fan isnt supposed to kick on until some crazy high number, IIRC it was 160 degrees.

even on low speed the fan moves a lot of air and is very loud.
 
Well, I just pulled both of the relays... The one for the low speed has a lot of resistance, where as the one for the high speed has almost none...

EDIT: Just tested both fans by connecting 3+5 like the thread said and both speeds work great...
 
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my car is having that issue right now as well.

ive had two mechanics look at it, and there like "well technically your running slighty hot but not overheating at all" which i dont understand, the car runs fine but i think im going to change the water pump and the thermostat to be safe, plus the coolant sensor was just replaced because the gauge was broken and the needle didnt go up at all.
 
Well this still makes no sense to me... I waited until the engine almost redlined for the fan to come on... When it did I pulled the low speed relay which stopped the fan, and then it started up when I put it back... So it is not the relay or the wiring, so whatever :shrug:
 
you need to find out at what temp the fan is actually coming on at. the PCM turns the fan on and it uses the other temp sensor (the one on top of the thermostat housing).
 
striker2 said:
i believe the cooling system holds ~2 gallons.
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I forgot to mention this before, but I only got a consistant 1.5 gallons out of my system (1.5 old coolant out, 1.5 flush w/water in, 1.5 flush w/water out, 1.5 50/50 mix in)... Was there something else I was supposed to do? I drained it from the radiator plug, although the car was tilted back a little... Would this have caused it? Do I have 0.5 gallons of flush in there??? :confused:

EDIT: Well, because of my obsessive compulsiveness (I am sure you have noticed this by now) I am going to drain the system again tomorrow on a downslant... Also, I wish I had known that Wal-Mart had coolant for only $8... I bought two gallons of 50/50 so that I would not have to mix it... Which is not that bad because there is a $5 mail in rebate when you buy two, so that brings the price of all the coolant I used to $22, which is still cheaper than if I had bought two gallons of 50/50 from Autozone originally...
 
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You're likely to get the other half gallon by pulling the main coolant hose from the lower portion of the block, on the driver's side.

Read/search up (particularly in the "old" forums) on waterpump replacement procedures, paying attention to the "method" used to retrieve all the parts of a broken impellar from within the cooling system. this outlines which hoses to pull, and where to "back flush" the system with a water hose, etc.

Now, you don't need to DO this, but the location is the same for access to all of the remaining coolant.
 
Yea, I did not feel like donig that, LOL... I got a little more out by jacking up the back of the car...


But anyways... I was driving around with the gauge on M and came home... I let the car idle until the needle got to the white line at the end of NORMAL without the fan coming on... I could not take it anymore so I shut off the car and tested the ETS or whatever it is... When I tested it, it read 2.7 ohms, or around 195ish degrees Farenheit (my previous numbers may have been flawed since I was using aluminum foil for the fuse in my multi-meter :shrug:)... Something tells me this is the problem, if it is reading only 195 degrees near the redline... I will check it again on Monday when it is light out, LOL... But as far as the part goes, do they break often on these cars (ie, can I pull one from a yard or should I just buy a new one)?
 
That is what I thought, but hey, I am Mr. Cheapo, LOL... Anyways, if I siphon out coolant from the overflow tank, will I be able to get enough out to replace it? I really do not feel like draining it again, the stupid plug is in such a dumb location... The stupid picture in Chilton's book shows it in a better location, LOL...
 
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