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Clutch replacement: Should I do it myself?

P

PurpleMystique

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Nov 16, 2004
Messages
2,602
Location
Greater Des Moines Area
Well, my SPEC Stage 1 looks like it's on its way out. It's made an odd noise on engagement for the past 5 or 10,000 miles, and the last couple of times I've driven the car, it has occasionally slipped when trying to accelerate in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. This sucks, because the clutch only has 20,000 miles on it.

I have a replacement on the way, and now I'm trying to decide whether or not this is something I should do on my own. I have a heated garage and plenty of basic tools, along with a hardware and auto parts store fairly close by. I have a few motorcycles to ride while the car is down, assuming the weather is nice.

The biggest thing I've done on my car is the alternator. Besides that, I've swapped UIMs, intakes, throttle bodies, roll resistors, valve covers, etc. Is a clutch something I should attempt or should I bite the bullet and pay someone else to do it?

If so, I've heard pulling the whole engine out is the easiest way to go about it, so I'd have to rent an engine lift. Some searching has told me that pulling the tranny out of the bottom is a total PITA, and after doing the alternator, I can see how that would be true. Is there a detailed how-to posted somewhere?

Any suggestions?
 
yeah... taking the whole engine out would prob be the easiest way to change the clutch... but then you have to make sure you get all the wireing and hoses back in the right place. unless youre good at that i wouldnt do that.

but just droppign the trans... from my understanding you need to support the engine, then take out the sub-frame, then you can drop the trans.

it sucks how hard these cars are to work on. but im sure someone who has actually done this will chime in
 
To pull or not to pull...that was my question not so long ago. Well, not counting my motorcyle, this was my first personal engine pull. And yes it is a PITA. But it's doable if you are competent with the tools, have or are willing to rent/buy the tools, and have many layers of patience stashed away for good use in the undertaking. I think the count was somewhere around 7 times I walked away for the day before a tool could make it's way through the barn wall. :laugh:

I used step-by-step instructions I printed off from Alldata. They aren't all that different from the factory sevice CD steps (purchase cheap from Todras). I used the steps as a guide, not an absolute. I reversed steps here and there that just made more sense to me. The aftermath...all went well and the only follow up work was 1 forgotten connector (speedo) and 1 coolant hose needing an 1/8" nudge to seal. Disclaimer note: I've been wrenching on my own stuff for 18+ years now nad have the tool collection to prove it.
 
SVTMiG said:
To pull or not to pull...that was my question not so long ago. Well, not counting my motorcyle, this was my first personal engine pull. And yes it is a PITA. But it's doable if you are competent with the tools, have or are willing to rent/buy the tools, and have many layers of patience stashed away for good use in the undertaking. I think the count was somewhere around 7 times I walked away for the day before a tool could make it's way through the barn wall.
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yeha... thats my i would lean toward just dropping the transmission. again... takign the motor out and hooking every last wire and hose back it is IMO more worries than you really need to go through.
 
Out the bottom. Use a floor jack with a board to support the engine.
The steering rack needs to be disconnected, make sure to get the bolt at the firewall inside the car, the starter, and radiator support needs to come out also. More will need to be disconnected but those are just a sampling. ;)
Use a wire coat hanger that has been cut to "hang" the radiator and you won't need to remove it.
It's a big job.
 
Sorry, I thought that was a given. ;) I was just telling you some of the other parts that need to come out/be disconnected besides the subframe.
The axles too.
 
Okay, I'm hoping to get started on this tomorrow. Who knows how long it will take, considering my schedule and the things I'll have to work around. I'm just hoping that the weather cooperates.

Will I need any special or unusual tools besides the basic wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, sockets, etc.? I seem to remember from reading 3.0 swap threads that getting the half-shafts (or something to do with the axles) out is difficult. Suggestions?
 
Hey purple take some pictures of anything you find might be use full for beginners at tackling the transmission. :cool:
 
Nothing is particularly difficult, IMO. A bit time consuming to make sure nothing breaks and that everything is disconnected.

One thing at a time, make sure everything that needs to be disconnected is before you drop the trans.

*The steering column is a bit of a PITA so make sure to put the driver's seat back as far as it goes before taking the battery out. ;)

The steering column at the rack needs to be disconnected (see * above) so you can drop the subframe along with the speed sensor and the connections at the back of the UIM, etc. I know I mentioned this before but... take a thorough look around and check that everything is disconnected before removing the trans.

Oh, make sure to drain the trans fluid before taking out the half shafts.
 
LUCA said:
*The steering column is a bit of a PITA so make sure to put the driver's seat back as far as it goes before taking the battery out. ;)
Click to expand...

No problems there, my seat lives as far back as it can go.

Any suggestions on where I can pick up a clutch alignment tool? Also, since I don't have a pilot bearing, can I even use a clutch alignment tool? I feel that the shuddering I've experienced with the Stage 1 is due to a mis-aligned clutch, and I'm sure that contributed to its early demise.
 
Well, coming around a corner today at a stoplight, I put it in third and got some slipping after engagement at ~2500rpm. This is the second time I've noticed slipping after the clutch has already engaged. I've been babying it and driving it as little as possible for the past two or three weeks. Any ideas on how long it has to live? I have to go out of town for the weekend and the forecast makes it look like a motorcycle isn't an option.
 
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